I need to make a few alterations to bike bits, tools etc, and hoping a dremel will do it all
I see the Silverline one for £20 and Draper @ £25, so are these OK or is there a better choice?
Do I need Variable speed?

and will the cutters work on allen keys,bike frames,bars or what?

I use a decent pipe cutter for bars. Guarantees a clean, perpendicular cut – just use a file to gently bring down any flaring. I’d rather use a hacksaw than a Dremel/grinder for bars.
Similarly, hacksaw if you want to cut a key (why?)
What are you wanting to cut on a bike frame?

My experience of non-Dremel dremels is that the tools that come with them are of poor quality. I have a Halfords dremel, it is fine as long as you buy/use Dremel cutting disks with it.

ditto

I’m just wondering what it is capable of, features to look out for, etc.
I’ll buy cutters/bits for it aftermarket anyway

A snake is really useful- means you’re just working with the extension not the entire tool. Tools can be pretty expensive singly so sometimes the bigger toolkits that come with lots of bits can make sense (and it’s handy when you’ve got some weird job and suddenly a bit you’d never thought of is ideal).

You definitely want multispeed, different tools work at different pace.

I was considering drilling a hole for a remote dropper
How large holes can you drill with a dremel?

will dremel “snakes” fit draper? etc?
Do aldi do dremels?

Do aldi do dremels?

Yes at correct offer time, both mains powered and battery powered 🙂

I bought the Draper because I didn’t want to spend a lot of money on something that was for a specific, one off job. It’s OK, but as noted above, the tools weren’t great. I suspect, like most things, if you are going to use it a reasonable amount, you’re better spending more on a genuine Dremel and tools.

I’ve had loads of different dremels.. They’ve all died eventually and the real dremel models lasted / worked no better.. One even went bang when it overheated through prolonged use..

Currently have a draper..

Doesn’t have the lower speed settings of other models

But seems to be more robust and has lasted longer than anything else I have had..

For the cutting discs / bits etc I always use genuine dremel.. They cost a little bit more but are much much better than any other cheaper makes.

Genuine dremel have a very good range of spares so make the tool less disposable than the cheap tat.
But best thing I got was a proper die grinder so much better unless space is an issue

Proxxon one is proper but costs a bit more.

I got an Erbauer job from the local DIY shop to get into nooks & crannies on an old table, £45 ish. Just the job, comes with loads of tools too. (& a flexi snakey thing)
Been great up to now.

As far as lifespan goes, mine is ancient and has never missed a beat… I burned out 2 cheapies before I got a genuine one. But by the same token, there’s been a bunch of new versions so new ones might not be as solid, and cheapies have probably caught up a lot.

Can they cut bars down with the right bit?
or will it take forever?
could you cut up an allen key?

alric – Member 
Can they cut bars down with the right bit?
or will it take forever?

Probably, and yes.

And if carbon bars, wear a mask. Nasty stuff in lungs potential.

Carbon you need a guide clamp or something similar and a hacksaw. Alloy bars you might be able to use a pipe cutter.

Currently have a draper..

Doesn’t have the lower speed settings of other models

I used my Draper once (about a year after bought) and only. The stupid locking action broke thereafter. Most useless piece of kit I ever bought (excepting the Aldi cheese-metal bike multitool replete with bendy chain-splitter)

Currently have a Lidl rotary tool but only used so far to cut stainless mudguard stays. So far so good.

I got a cheap lidl one, didn’t expect it to be up to heavy use but gave it a try when I needed to cut bits out of a socket to make a clutch remover for my chainsaw. I was surprised just how well it worked.

The “cheap Lidl rechargeable parkside” dremel equivalent is very decent in use and for the cash it’s well worth it

alric – Member

Can they cut bars down with the right bit?
or will it take forever?
could you cut up an allen key?

Yes, no, yes. A rotary disc’ll go through bars without any fuss, though keeping it straight won’t be the easiest- it’d be better to use a hacksaw really. (source: owns all manner of powered cutting tools, uses hacksaw) And yes do not breathe carbon dust (or the dust from the abrasive wheel)

Allen key will cut just fine, it’ll take a little while for a big one.

Einhell one here, doing a good job too. Came with one of those flexible shaft things which is really handy.

Do take the safety advice serious, these things get up to crazy revs, I always use goggles/glasses. If I’m using the cutting discs it’s a full face shield – one shattered on me once, luckily missed my face but bits of it stuck into the plywood at the back of the bench 😯

I got an Erbauer job from the local DIY shop

No I didn’t, I got an Einhell like Seadog’s. DOH!

(I knew it began with an E & sounded Germanish)

Yes I take eye protection very seriously,
I had a piece of metal dug out of my eye with a needle, afer using an angle grinder with goggles on.
And some of the cutting discs I used in thailand were lethal. If you used the wrong pressure or grip they shatter

I bought a (genuine) Dremmel well over a decade ago driven by needing to drill out some cable guides in order to run disc hoses. I’ve used it for remarkably little bike related stuff since. It’s a weird tool – they’re not that powerful and the cutting and grinding bits aren’t that robust.

For cutting down bars and fork steerers I’ve always used a Park cutting guide, decent hacksaw blade and a file to finish off. A dremel just isn’t the right tool for the job – they’re (IMO) for small, awkward, trimming, shaping, grinding but if it’s something you can get a proper hand held saw or file to that will normally be quicker and easier.

If I’m using the cutting discs it’s a full face shield – one shattered on me once, luckily missed my face but bits of it stuck into the plywood at the back of the bench

They pretty much always shatter on me – if you’re cutting any depth it’s next to impossible to hold the dremel at exactly 90 degrees to the material as you cut and as the disc wears it gets more difficult.

How much cheaper are the other Dremels? The Dremel 3000 looks a good piece of kit and is £30 on Amazon.

I’m going to willy wave here.

It wasnt quick and it wasnt pretty but it did work…

I machined down a chainring to make a vintage crankset work with 11speed.

I’ve used it for lots since i got it but really early it d3veloped a fault where the first 4 notched on the speed control do heehaw.

The router adapter is comically flexy.

Few thoughts…

I think its been said ^^ up there but they are a “light” tool and more suited to modelling type work. (IMO)

I have a mains Dremel and for balsa wood, plastic, ally and RC modelling size stuff it is quite handy and good to have in the toolbox…

However, when you see the adverts with someone using one to de-rust a gate or similar they are too small for that type of thing – again IMO.

Yes you could chop a hole in a carbon frame with one; an ally frame wold take longer… For a handlebar a good Sandvik hacksaw frame and fine HSS blade every day of the week.

As others have said if you have access to or have used larger tools; air die grinder etc by comparison a Dremel is very light duty including its tools and attachments.

HTH