Viewing 24 posts - 1 through 24 (of 24 total)
  • What do I need to change my QR pro 2 rear hub to 135mm maxle?
  • Mugboo
    Full Member

    What do I need and where do I get it?

    Cheers

    mrblobby
    Free Member

    You need a 15mm axel. Though if you plan to do it yourself you’ll also need all the bits to take apart a pro 2 hub (basically same as a bearing change). You can find a video on how to do this on the hope web site.

    I got all the bits to do mine from CRC.

    SOAP
    Free Member

    Or a 12mm coversion kit which I have for £15 my email in profile

    mrblobby
    Free Member

    Oops I meant 12mm 😳

    Link to CRC…

    mrblobby
    Free Member

    You’ll also need…

    Hub support bush
    Pro 2 seal tool
    Bearing support bush tool

    All that is about 28 quid from CRC.

    SOAP
    Free Member

    or a hammer and a socket 😉

    Jeffus
    Free Member

    I have one you can have, e-mail me where you want it posting in the UK and I’ll stick it in the post, its the axle and two end caps 12×135 I have two so one going spare FOC. my e-mail jeffmarsh at hotmail.co.uk

    Mugboo
    Full Member

    Jeffus YGM 😀

    Mugboo
    Full Member

    Thanks everyone else for the help 🙂

    B.A.Nana
    Free Member

    Wot you been up to?

    Mugboo
    Full Member

    Sod off nosybonk 😉

    nosedive
    Free Member

    so does this work on ‘old’ pro 2 as well or can this only be done on the new evo hubs?

    B.A.Nana
    Free Member

    Sod off nosybonk

    I’m expecting you to be as generous as jeffus when it comes to trickle down to family. I’m after chainset and brakes thanks?.

    Mugboo
    Full Member

    Hope it’s works on the non Evo ones…

    mrblobby
    Free Member

    Works on old ones too.

    Northwind
    Full Member

    Just as a FYI, the old Pro 2 rear doesn’t deal that well with the maxle- once they stick the 12mm hole through it there’s not much strength in it and they have a habit of snapping. Especially if you combine it with the tapered Maxle Lite axles. So, worth getting in a spare axle, and if you’ve got the tapered Maxle worth replacing that too.

    Tapered maxle looks like this:
    (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Images/Models/Original/44142.jpg)

    Mugboo
    Full Member

    Cheers Northwind.

    stevomcd
    Free Member

    +1 Northwind, would not recommend doing this on an old Pro2. Broke 4 axles before I gave up. Get a new hub instead. Evos are great.

    Mugboo
    Full Member

    Phoned Hope and they said the problem was with the Maxle lite

    Northwind
    Full Member

    Mugboo – Member

    Phoned Hope and they said the problem was with the Maxle lite

    Surprisingly enough, Rockshox say it’s Hope’s fault 😉 Bit of both really, Rockshox correctly say that the maxle isn’t supposed to be loadbearing in that way and functions correctly, Hope correctly say that Rockshox changed the maxle design and that their product worked OK before the change. I gather DT have a hub that does the same.

    But, the fact is the things still snap more than they should even with a solid 12mm axle like a Hadley or the one in my Ellsworth, not just with maxle lites. Just a case of not enough metal, the exle’s got very little strength in it.

    Doesn’t worry me too much, I just stuck a spare in the toolkit and when it breaks I can swap it easily enough, and Hope’ll replace it under warranty. I wouldn’t run a Pro 2 with a tapered maxle lite though, it’s just asking for trouble.

    Jeffus
    Free Member

    the axle I have was run on a non taper maxle, I replaced the maxle lite on my 5 early on.

    SOAP
    Free Member

    Just send the broken ones back to Hope, tell them they are a pile of poo and they will send you a shinny new one! 🙂

    Mugboo
    Full Member

    Thanks again :mrgreen:

    stevomcd
    Free Member

    My Maxle was non-taper, made no difference!

Viewing 24 posts - 1 through 24 (of 24 total)

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