Just thought I’d update you on my 67er.

Just for a laugh I stuck as 700c wheel with a cyclocross 700×35 on the front of my normal 26″ bike. There is minimal (less than a fingers width) of clearance between the tyre and the fork brace. I did this just for the mass Swinley ride when I new the ground would be frozen so mud clearance wouldn;t be an issue.

Last weekend I thought I’d try a slow ride around my local woods. I went to put the 26″ wheel back on the bike but the tyre was flat so I left the big skinny wheel on. Lordswood this weekend was a mix or mud, roots, wet and wet muddy roots. I was amazed to find how much grip I actually has and there was no mud build up between the fork and the wheel.

The riding position isn;t really that different but the front wheel is lighter and does appear to roll faster. The bike is an old Scott Strike Full suss 27 speed and definately felt faster with the different wheel on.

I am sure your not that interested but I am bored so I don;t see why you shouldn’t be. 😉

This thread is nothing without pics!! 😉

67er?? You mean 69er shurely??

It would have pics but I forgot to take them before I flew out.

It would be a 69er if it had a big front tyre, the little front tyre makes it a 67er. It is a new niche I inhabit all on my own

67er?!?!

may I quote the late Hunter S Thompson:

“one of gods own prototypes, too weird to live, too rare to die” 😆

* ahem *

I was there before you…..

Hunter S Thompson – top bloke

Okay druid, you beat me to it. But mine is full sus for proper off road use and no mud gaurds

That looks like it has been converted the other way. Meant to be running 700 tyres and you stuck a 26″ on the back.

Darwinism in bike trends. Different origins evolving towards a common design

TBH – I’ve never ridden it like that 🙂

I was just fooling around one day….

I was only fooling around with my bike but then decided to ride it. I thought it might wind up some purists but actually turned out a suprising success. Might keep it like that for a while or at least until I work out why it is a bad idea.

WCA – are you sure the tyre won’t foul the frame if the fork compresses fully ?

try the back wheel as well

I am certain. the fork bridge is connected by the lower fork to the quick release fixing point. If it fouls on compression it means the wheel has been pushed through the bottom of the forks. Oh, perhaps it could happen to me.

The tyre’ll be sitting higher though and that could hit the crown.
That’s why 26er forks adapted for 29er or 650B use have travel limiters in them.

I am certain. the fork bridge is connected by the lower fork to the quick release fixing point. If it fouls on compression it means the wheel has been pushed through the bottom of the forks. Oh, perhaps it could happen to me

No, it won’t hit the brace but could meet the down tube (or crown as stu said)

i can see how it could possibly hit the down tube but in my case it doesn’t.

Which bit is the crown?

Which bit is the crown?

The bit which attaches to the top of your fork stanchions, and the bottom of your steerer tube.

WCA, having seen your bike in person at Swinley, I can say fair enough to you for trying it, but it’s not something I’d want to do myself. I think if your forks were setup so that they bottom out on occasion, I can see the tyre actually hitting the crown of your forks possibly. Certainly were you to hit a bump hard, the wheel could possibly deflect by a few mm, which itself would mean the tyre could hit the arch on the forks as it was FAR less than a finger gap from the tyre to the arch, a few Rizla’s more like 😉

Seen a few pics of peoples bikes running different combinations of wheel sizes front and back on MTBR forums as it seems to be the “in thing” to be doing in the States right now. Fair enough, whatever works for the individual is cool by me. But I can only say I’d not do it on a conventional fork designed for use with 26″ wheels as the potential for disaster is too great. Probably don’t need to point out the possible outcomes of what might happen if they tyre hit the crown under full compression! The only forks that are ok for it really are forks like my Maverick SC32’s, which are upside down so no arch, fitted with a travel reduction kit so that the fork bottoms out earlier and the tyre can’t hit the crown under full compression as pointed out by singlespeedstu.

FWIW, my mate has got a Chameleon setup as a 69er, with rigid forks up front. He loves it! Not to my taste but we’re all different so it’s all good. Personally I’m a 26″ wheel man through and through, and like my wheels to be the same size both ends.

mboy – please contact me re Hutch Bull Dog UST pair.

Pic here. He doesn’t look scared or anything does he?!
http://dezbrewster941.photoblog.org.uk/p55786154.html

(Not sure how to direct link on fotopic)

Finally got around to taking some photos. Sorry about the quality but shaky hands, poor light and a mobile phone camera. It is a 4mm allen key in the last pic.

Let the air out and compress the forks until they bottom out.

All that will do it move the front of the bike nearer the ground. It won;t change the distance between the tyre and the fork bridge as they are connected by two big lumps of metal (the fork arms).

The tyre choice will make no difference to the forks ability to bottom out so letting out the air would be the same if I had 26″ tyres

It will show you if the tyre will hit the crown or the downtube under compression. Unless your wheel suddenly turns into an egg the tyre will never hit the brace.

BTW the crown it the silver bit at the top by your headset.

Just found out how it might hit the crown on the other thread. Embarressed by my stupidity now.

Cheers l-ache

Yea I was just reading that.

Let us know how it turns out.