£400 for me would mean either buying a new watch with an ETA movement, or buying something vintage. Or I’d cut the budget massively and buy a Seiko or Orient from eBay / Amazon / Creation Watches.
My personal taste would be to try and find a very minimal dress watch with a hand wind or auto movement – A Nomos, Junghans Max Bill, Hamilton Intramatic, Tissot Visodate etc. A bit of a “What would Don Draper wear” type deal :lol:. As a rule, manual wind results in a thinner and cheaper watch than an auto. If I were you, I’d go to a fancy jeweller and have a look at the likes of Rolex, Omega etc. and what their models look like and what styles you like. Most watches are copies of other watches in some way or another, and the last thing you want to do is buy something that’s a blatant Rolex Submariner or Panerai copy without realising it.
ETA / Swatch group are basically the VW Audi of the watch world. They own most of the major watch brands, with the added bonus that they sell engines to other people too. A £3-400 Hamilton or Tissot will have an ETA movement. A TAG Heuer will have an ETA movement. A £3-4k Omega will have an ETA movement. TAG and Omega barely change anything on their cheaper watches, to doing the full co-axial movement on the top of the line Omegas.
A lot of smaller non-swatch makers also use ETA movements – ie, Steinhart, Timefactors etc. Steinharts are fantastic quality watches for the money.
ETA are by no means the be all and end all of watch movements, but it’s an easy rule of thumb that if it’s got an ETA in it, it’ll be OK. I’ve got watches with Chinese movements, which run beautifully, but nobody’s ever going to covet them.
Basically, if you find a watch you like, do a google search for it’s name along with the word movement, and someone will have already covered the question on a watch forum.
If anyone claims that they have an “their own in house movement” and they’re not Rolex, Seiko or Orient, go and do a bit of googling and see how true it is.
Seiko and Orient make watches around the £100 mark, and I quite like them just because they make the entire thing in house. Y’know, like Rolex like to make a fuss about. 😆 Seiko make a lot of fancy divers watches, but they don’t make many nice dressy watches – even the £10k Grand Seikos look barely different to a £50 Seiko 5 Auto… Yokobies (a bloke called Harold, based in HK) has a photobucket site and will basically custom make a Seiko to your requirements, which opens a massive range of possibilities. Orient do a couple of nice dress watches.
Another option would be Invicta – I don’t particularly like the brand, but they use nice Seiko based movements, and the prices are incredible. Because the movements are basically Seikos, there are a massive amount of replacement parts available if you want to lose the Invicta brand.
And if I were to go vintage, I’d be looking for an old Omega, Tudor or Poljot. Old Omegas and Tudors are at the upper end of your price range, but obviously they’ve both got a huge reputation. I’d suggest buying from a dealer if at all possible, or getting on a watch forum and asking the guys there to check out your potential purchases. There are a lot of Omegas that are made out of 3 different watches pieced together. Tudor are basically Rolex’s version of Skoda. Same guts, better prices.
Another option would be to go and hunt out something like a vintage Accurist or similar that would have been contemporary to your grandparents. I would expect them to be using fairly standard Swiss movements and not in the least bit waterproof, but I’ve never had one. There is also a nice range of re-issue quartz Accurists around at the moment.
Poljot were a Russian firm that made some gorgeous hand wind watches in the 60s (also sold here by Sekonda), spectacularly thin movements, but you really want to buy at the top end of the market (£120-£150) from a seller with a string of good feedback. I’ve got a Poljot that could really do with a service and some gold replating, and the work would cost me more than buying a perfect one. Again, these aren’t covetable like the major swiss brands, but prices are on the up.