Viewing 9 posts - 41 through 49 (of 49 total)
  • Van insulation!… vapour barriers and 1000s of opinions and 100000 questions.
  • grum
    Free Member

    Nice one alexxx. I’m looking to do very similar with same vehicle (or Fiat/Peugeot equivalent) and would also like to be able to use it in the Alps in winter. Yours is a L3H2 Relay?

    Doing one side then using that as templates sounds like a neat trick.

    Yes please to pics!

    alexxx
    Free Member

    yep exactly grum, l3h2 relay – I bought the celotex from insulation giant online 12 sheets of 25mm I think it was around £160 delivered which is far cheaper than I saw anywhere else when you get to that stage! I liked using 25mm sheets as it allowed me to do large sheets for the top layer – I’ll show you what I mean with pics – probably after the weekend now as I’m away working sorry

    grum
    Free Member

    Yeah no worries, whenever you’re ready. 🙂

    Re this:

    So I’m basically in a half finished insulation and half frozen state on what to do next! I think its just going to be a crack on and deal with the problem when you get to it approach.

    I read a book about doing van conversions that strongly advised just cracking on and doing something rather than endlessly deliberating (something that concerns me!) – but be ready to accept that you will be making mistakes/re-evaluating based on new information and end up re-doing some stuff.

    grum
    Free Member

    Oh yeah, and did you take out the bulkhead? I was assuming would and get swivel seats but now I’m considering either leaving it in or making a new one, possibly with a door. For stealth/security/heat/condensation reasons.

    alexxx
    Free Member

    Bulkhead came out yep!

    Heat isn’t really a hard issue to combat but the security / stealth factor is. Basically I’ve decided to go down deadlocking each door (£110+vat fitted) per lock. I’d have only done the rear doors and protected the plug in the dashboard if it had a bulkhead in.

    However, I do like seeing out the rear side window and I like the idea of swivelling the passenger seats for my layout (not the driver seat though) apparently it raises the seat too much if you dont plan on removing the overhead storage.. also you need a box somewhere with all the electrics and heaters so why not behind the drivers seat!

    The only real mistakes I’ve made so far is buying a cheap replacement side mirror and putting a small dint in the van because of it! doh… £120 for a respray on that panel will teach me!

    I think I’ve nailed it in terms of insulation really – I can’t see anyone else with a better suggestion than whats being done.

    One thing I would say is ask yourself if you need rear side windows… and if so will only 1 do.. and if only 1 are you happy to have it as just privacy glass or do you want it sliding… Personally I kinda feel I should only have 1 for a warmer / stealthier build but I’m going to press on with 2 as I could always board it up!

    I’ll report back after the weekend!

    Maybe better going to emails rather than the forum?

    FunkyDunc
    Free Member

    Re condensation, couldn’t you have a small fan running extracting air? surely these days you can get very quiet fans and mount the fan out of the sleeping area?

    Still need fresh air vents in though, however I’d imagine they could be small as you are actually sucking air in

    fisha
    Free Member

    PC case fans would fit the bill for that sort of thing. They run near silent and on 12v.

    spooky_b329
    Full Member

    I’ve gone a similar route for my insulation.

    My last van I went for the best (and arguably easiest) method, and thats the two part spray foam kits. You get your windows in, and any battens stuck down. Then mask everything with cheap gaffer tape/sheet over cab etc and spray the whole lot in one go. Sticks directly to the panels with no air gaps so all worries of vapour barriers etc are null and void, deadens panel noise and won’t absorb moisture.

    On this van, I have done exactly the same as you except I used free 20mm non-silvered insulation boards, and I bagged my bottle insulation in clear Screwfix sacks, sucked the air out with a hoover and then posted them into the cavities where they expand again. I chose against a full on vapour barrier as 1) there is the real chance of an undetected leak soaking the insulation anyway and 2) varnished plywood/carpeted plywood will do a good job of that. On my old van I never found any evidence of condensation on the parts I didn’t spray foam, and those areas (such as around locks) just had bottle insulation stuffed in there.

    The only big difference is I took a different approach with the floor. Old van had battens and kingspan, it was warm but robbed about 40mm of headroom, and was never entirely creak free.

    This van, I’ve done the Rolson closed cell foam matts with a floating ply floor over the top. Nice and quiet (in terms of road/drivetrain noise), no creaks, and about 20mm off the headroom. The mats are in Halfords but cheaper on ebay.

    alexxx
    Free Member

    Looking back I think I’d have gone the spray route too – for the time / effort / cost it’s a no brainer.

    I’ve finished my insulation now apart from the floor which I’m still going down the 2 sheets of ply with celotex inbetween method. it’s all cut to shape I’m just holding off laying it until I’ve got my drop vents positioned and unwin rails / deadlock in the back

    I’ll get pictures up soon just been manic with work and vanning!

    The solar panels are on too! woop.

    Interesting idea with those foam mats, I may fill the lower parts of the floor like you have done still as I’ve got some of those mats in the garage not really being used.

    Edit – what are you doing about your wheel arches?

Viewing 9 posts - 41 through 49 (of 49 total)

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