As above, tried out my chest mount for the first time this weekend…

[video]http://youtu.be/7r4Rcfk3CdA[/video]

Despite angling it as far back as possible I still couldn’t get the centre view high enough above the bars, is it better to maybe just mount it upside down or use the extension arm kit to?

Upside down with the long extension – change the setting to record upside down too
[video]http://vimeo.com/45116906[/video]
This video uses bar mount and seat post.
[video]http://vimeo.com/45345661[/video]
which can leave a sea sick feeling

try some combos on a local loop

Definitely mount it upside down and set the unit to record upside down. I think I got lucky with mine – upside down and used my reflection in a car window as a guesstimate. It should point upwards when you are standing up.

Not the best but gives an idea of angle and shot.

Good point also on sitting vs standing. Get someone to tweak the angle while you stand on the bike in the attack position. A few spins up and down the road is good to try it out.

Definitely mount it upside down and set the unit to record upside down.

This.

It needs to be tight, or it bounces around.

And use the rubber doofer in the pinch-clip where the mount attaches to the chest-plate. This will reduce the amount of annoying clicking in the sound recording.

Probably just mount it upside-down however, constant chestcam footage is massivelly dull to all that were not there and switching the view on the camera the other way up makes you less likely to whip the camera off and get different shots on your ride.
For this reason I just cut some foam into a nice little wedge and neatly duck-taped it onto the back of the plate raising the shooting angle a fair bit.

Lots of tips on the chest mount:
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/gopro-mounts-part-1-2010.html

Just use your editing software to flip the video don’t bother messing around with the camera settings. As pointed out it makes it easier to swap between mount points when riding.

Cheers for the tips, will try to put them into action next week

Just use your editing software to flip the video don’t bother messing around with the camera settings. As pointed out it makes it easier to swap between mount points when riding.

The majority of my filming is done from the chest mount so I use the upside down mode to flip the least number of clips. It makes no difference to how I film just saves flipping more than I have to.

I use the extension arm rather than running it upside down- slightly more stable ime, and gives me a good position (it doesn’t have as much adjustment as upside down, though, but I don’t generally need that)

Tried simply adjusting the should straps so the camera sat higher, maybe 8 inches below my adams apple and I think the result is OK.
[video]http://youtu.be/bnKrREpQdgM[/video]

Are you short? Stupid question but I’m 6’3 and get perfect angles with the chest mount but if I put on the same way on a mate who is 5’5 all wee see are bars and front wheel

ive found the gopro only as good as the terain your riding..around here its mostly rocky and lumpy so i get allot of shake no matter how the camera is mounted…whereas some of the lovely flowing stuff you see on the internet is often silky smooth singletrack stuff imo

This was done mounted upside down at CyB, bit of bounce on the rocky bits but nothing too bad.

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JBS5XYl1LEc[/video]

Trick is making sure the straps are quite tight, didn’t really notice it while riding but was nice to take it off after 6hrs!

Similar to most folk but I’ve found upside down on the short extension and then tip it down until it won’t go any further is spot on for me and reduces the chances of bumping it and having it sag down. Looks far too high when you are not on the bike but it’s right once I’m riding. Using resolution 4 on the camera it is fine for etither sitting or standing without moving the camera.
For me at least (6ft with approx 38″ chest) all of the straps on the mount need to be as tight as possible which makes it feel snug but gets it higher up on your chest which also helps stability. The final thing that helps is if you use a Camelbak or similar with a chest strap, tighten that right up too so the chest strap of your pack also runs across the plate of the chest mount (just make sure straps / hose etc won’t show on the camera). If I do all of these it is fairly acceptable even on bumpy terrain.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qmQrEM5rVA&feature=player_embedded
Favourite non-chest mount position so far is under the bars pointing back.

I made a little spacer out of foamex (that hard plastic bubbly board signmakers use)… When I got the perfect angle on my mountain bike, I trimmed the spacer so it’s exactly the right size to slot in the wedge between the bracket and the camera.

I did the same on my road bike (different angle altogether) and trimmed the other edges. Now I have a little rectangle that I can use as a spacer to get the angle bang on every time…

1. Make sure all the chest and shoulder straps are as tight as possible.
2. Dont bother flipping it upside down, just use 2 of the extenision mounts, this give a better range of adjustment and allows the camera’s height to be adjusted.