Keen to scratch the itch I have for electric gears, and as a reward for getting my fat ass out a bit more I’m considering taking the plunge.

As budget is a consideration ultegra Di 2 the option I’m looking at, however the issue is I have a non di2 frame (canyon ultimate cf sl). Is it possible to internally route the cables (with a bit of bodging) and hide the battery in the seat post, or did I need the non cable version for this?

If not then I’ll consider the etap option, but I’d rather not given its much more expensive and I quite fancy the synchro shift functionality of di2.

It entirely depends on what’s going on in the BB shell mostly. The internal battery is connected from the bottom.

How do I find out? Will a bike shop be able to tell me?

Also, will the di2 cables fit through the existing holes in the frame?

Shimano do a handlebar and stem combo that hide the battery and has holes in it for the cables to exit – I think as that was a way I was thinking of running Di2 if I ever did, on my current frame

Or consider eTap you’d only need to buy levers and derailleurs. And then not worry about cables.

As per my op, etap is the expensive fall back option.

If it was the same cost I’d buy it over di2, but it’s 400 quid more for the shifters and mechanical. Also it doesn’t do syncro shifts as far as I am aware..

I love my frame too much to swap that..

I reckon you can, especially if it’s an internally cabled frame

… as long as:
There areN’T fixed internal guides for the cable inners
There ARE holes between down tube and BB (biggish hole); seat tube and BB; BB and through chainstay to the dropout (it looks like this is correct from the canyon site pics)

On my oldish ultegra 6870, the cabling goes:
• From shifters (1 wire each), under tape and out to join junction-A which hangs under the stem.
• Single wire out from Junction-A, through downtube to junction-B (which is shoved into the bottom end of the down tube).
Junction-B has 3 output wires connecting to
• (internal) Battery which is in my seatpost (jammed in with some foam but with means to allow it to pull back out again – zipties in my case)
• Front mech (Di2 frames have a hole to allow the wire out; yours may need some drill-related bravery)
• Rear mech

I’d pull out the crank and bb and have a look to see what hole space there is.

With di2 it does not matter what order things are plugged in so you can put battery etc anywhere in the system , same goes for junction box with the Charger port that’s normally under the stem. It can go anywhere.