Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
  • Tyre size and wheel size – plus fat and normal hmm…
  • firestarter
    Free Member

    I currently have a fat bike with 80mm rims and 4″ jumbo Jims. Climbing is great but it’s a bit draggy. So it got me thinking maybe 27.5plus could be the way to go. But other day in the shop the 2.8 wtb tyres on 40mm rims really didn’t look that much different in width to a whyte with 30mm rims and 2.4 wtb tyres so the extra weight doesn’t appear at plus size a huge benefit

    Also my initial thought on looking was less rolling weight but it appears my chunky wheels and tyres are about the same as a plus sized set anyway so that wouldn’t change

    So a wide ish rim with a 2.4 tyre could be the best.. Maybe. 29er of course

    Riding is natural trails rather than trail centres and just bumbling along. So perhaps my fatty is actually the best but maybe treat it to some decent wheels

    I think I’ve talked myself into upgrading my cheap fatty lol calibre dune btw

    roverpig
    Full Member

    Try going the other way and using 4.8 Jumbo Jims. There’s magic pixie dust in them or something.

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    2.8 WTB tyres on 40mm rims is pretty much at the narrow end of Plus. A 3″ Nobby Nic on a 45mm Scraper rim is more what you’re probably thinking of.

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    firestarter
    Free Member

    Rover I think I’d have to go 1x to fit a 4.8 mate

    Maybe Scot as the 3.0 chronicles on a 40mm rim looked bigger on a orbea loki they had on sale

    Part of the problem is all this boost tech now. The longitude I looked at had 135 rear boost fork. The pinnacle ramin was traditional. And two others had different too called boost but one was 148 rear and one was 142 Its all gone mad

    My fat has 150 front and 190 rear iirc which is madness

    roverpig
    Full Member

    Rover I think I’d have to go 1x to fit a 4.8 mate

    Great, so you’d save a bit of weight there too 🙂

    I tried B+ for a few months. Obviously it’s hard to draw conclusions about wheels when they are attached to different bikes. But it seems to me that 4.8 JJ tyres on 80mm (BR710) rims is a faster combination than 2.8 Nobby Nic tyres on 30mm (WTB Asym) rims. The 2.8 Trailblazer tyres on the same WTB rims are a lot faster than the Nobby Nic and possibly faster than the 4.8 JJ, but not by enough for me to be sure!

    firestarter
    Free Member

    Interesting. I’m seriously thinking that staying fat is the way forward 😉

    rickmeister
    Full Member

    Low pressures are often mentioned, but if its dry and dusty.. pump them up a bit more… you can experiment both ways …

    Personally running about 15psi with 4.8 JJ’s on 1 x 30 x 34/11 gearing and its surprisingly non draggy

    whitestone
    Free Member

    WTB Trailblazer 2.8″ tyres are just 3mm wider than Bontrager 2.35″ XR4 tyres, i.e. they are closer to 2.5″. Bontrager seem to be pretty accurate in their sizing BTW, also the WTB Blazer 3″ is that width so it’s just the TB 2.8″ that’s narrow by comparison.

    dovebiker
    Full Member

    First question is are you running tubeless as it’s the best way to significantly reduce rolling resistance? Also, has your frame got clearance to run a 29+? I have both fatbike and 29+ and the 29+ noticeably rolls quicker – although it’s a rigid bike, apart from technical singletrack it’s the fastest bike over the ground and I’ve had people riding full sussers in races crash because they’ve tried to keep up. I sold my 29er a long time ago as it wasn’t getting used. On my fatbike I run Dillinger 5 in winter and HuDus in summer – apart from the extra effort of pushing a bigger rolling diameter, there isn’t much difference in speed over the ground. Having experimented with tyre pressures, higher pressures just means more feedback and bounce, doesn’t actually make much difference to speed over the ground and I’d rather have the ability to deal with rocks and roots than perceived benefits.

    firestarter
    Free Member

    I honestly don’t know if it has the clearance for 29+ tbh. And it would be a very expensive test.

    Currently I’m running 8psi front 9 rear with the lightweight schwalbe tubes. Due to my wheels being bog standard I’m not sure it’s worth the effort if tubeless as I’ve been told the standard rims are a pain to do

    firestarter
    Free Member

    Hmm…. Dt br2350 wheelset is the same price as a decent spec pinnacle ramin plus full bike

Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)

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