I’ve got a Specialized Camber Evo 2015 and I don’t know what type of brake pads to order that are compatible with this bike. There are no clues on the bike. I look on the Chain Reaction website and there are hundreds of options. Anyone know what type of pads I need please?

Why not just look on the specialized website and see what they are called?

Look at the brakes? There must be a make and model on there surely?

On the brakes it says shimano mineral oil BL-M615 Malaysia 22.2

On the Specialized website it says:
Front- Shimano Deore BR-M615, hydraulic disc, Ice Tech pads, S/M: 180mm rotor, Others: 200mm

rear – Shimano Deore BR-M615, hydraulic disc, Ice Tech pads, S/M: 160mm rotor, Others: 180mm

Now that is confusing and I can’t find anything on Chain Reaction that matches that word for word and I’m worried of ordering the wrong brake pads.

I’m pretty sure these are the ones that have to be main dealer fitted.

Any pad suitable for Deore M615 then surely?

I’m pretty sure these are the ones that have to be main dealer fitted

I’ve had them changed by the person at Rebound suspension in Horwich before so don’t think they have to be main dealer fitted.

Now I just take my bike to someone who works from home just 2 minutes away from me but this time I’m just trying to do it myself to avoid costs.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/shimano-xtr-xt-slx-alfine-j-type-disc-brake-pads/rp-prod130823?gs=1&gclid=CIHLxtSMl8cCFQX3wgod0sgHdg&gclsrc=aw.ds

I’m pretty sure these are the ones that have to be main dealer fitted.

😀 😀

YOU WANT THESE

Thanks, I’ve just ordered two of the £5 ones from shark attack’s link.

the ones in orangeboy’s link are £15+ whats the difference to justify the higher price?

The ones I linked to are genuine shimano with the cooling fins. Not sure that makes them any better unless you do a lot of dh. But I use hope on my own bikes no can’t really say

Now I just take my bike to someone who works from home just 2 minutes away from me but this time I’m just trying to do it myself to avoid costs.

Not trying to be a smartarse here but are you sure you know how to do the job as you don’t sound too mechanically savvy . Good luck anyhow .

Yes, I’m very poor mechanically.
I’ll give it a good go and if I can’t fit them I’ll take them to the aforementioned mechanic.
At least then he will only charge me for fitting them, rather than charging me more for ordering *and* fitting them.

I didn’t think fitting brake pads was a hard job – I’ve seen people change them mid-ride on ‘group rides’ I’ve been on – and it looks like a 10 minute job.

It’s on a par with putting bread in a toaster for difficulty.

Good for you . Shimano brakes are about the easiest there are to change pads .

+1 to Ramseyneil, and sorry for taking the piss before. My trolling sensor went off incorrectly by the looks of it. I was also slightly concerned if you couldn’t work out what pads you needed, I’d be alarmed at letting you do a safety relevant maintenance job on your bike, but good on you for learning. Maybe this time take them to your mate and get him to show you so you’ll know for future though?

Shimano are dead easy, never had an issue.

1/ Take out the wheels!

2/ using a wide bladed screwdriver (or tableknife, or even better a thin plastic tyrelever*) push the pads apart so the pistons retract into the caliper.

3/ loosen off the bolts holding the caliper to the fork / frame

4/ remove the pad retaining pin (may be a split pin, may be a small bolt) Don’t lose it!!

5/ remove pads and springs, pay attention to orientation and order (it’s obvious enough but worth looking at the old set anyway)

6/ insert new pads and springs

7/ Refit the retaining pin which you didn’t lose after step 4

8/ Reinsert the wheels

9/ spin the wheels to centre the caliper, then pull and hold the brake lever (may take a few pumps to take up slack depending how worn the last pads were and how thick the new ones are). Once they bite, hold the laver so brakes are tight on.

10/ Nip up the bolts holding the caliper. Nip! They don’t need to be monkey tight, and if you do over tighten and strip the threads on your fork you’ll be in a world of pain!!

11/ release the lever and check the wheel spins freely. Occasionally you might need to do 9/10 a few times to get it to centre properly or even ride it a bit with a bit of rub to allow the pistons to even out a bit. If you have massive rubbing, there could be several reasons and with all good intent, at that point if you’re just learning to change pads, I’d get someone ‘qualified’ to look at it.

12/ Don’t forget to do 7/, and recheck it every ride. If your pins goes missing and your pads selfeject, best to not find out on the hoof.

Theotherjonv deserves a “like”.

Yes great post. Should bookmark it.

Thanks for the instructions. I’ll give it a try and if there are any issues I’ll take it to the bike mechanic whos just 2 minutes ride away. He often does it there and then so I’ll be able to just watch what he does.