Viewing 12 posts - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)
  • Turner 5 Spot, offset bushings
  • richmtb
    Full Member

    I’ve got a 2010 DW Link 5 Spot (the year before they slackened it)

    Has anyone tried offset bushings on a DW link Turner frame

    Its got 6mm mounting hardware so the bushings should provide a useful difference

    Any issues with seastay bridge hitting the seatpost, its very tight at full travel as it is

    robinlaidlaw
    Free Member

    Your last line is why not. There’d need to be a bit of clearance there, there’s not. The bottom link comes close to the frame too.

    elliott-20
    Free Member

    Had quick chat to the guys a Burgtec in Fort Bill at the weekend about the same thing.

    They recommended bushings (22 x6.1) in both top and bottom for the 5Spot.

    I wish I took more cash up there as they were quite a bit cheaper too 🙁

    I’m sure Hora will be along shortly to pronounce the 2010 5Spot with bushings still wasn’t a scratch on the 2011 but that’s one persons review contrary to a number of others who have really rated the difference.

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    richmtb
    Full Member

    Cheers Rob,

    Angleset it its then!

    EDIT

    Had quick chat to the guys a Burgtec in Fort Bill at the weekend about the same thing.

    They recommended bushings (22 x6.1) in both top and bottom for the 5Spot.

    No issues with frame clearnce then?

    elliott-20
    Free Member

    I said I was intending to run with one at first (and maybe with an angleset) and the reply was to go with two.

    I’ve always wondered about the frame clearance myself so, if I do get round to it eventually, then I’ll probably try one, then two, tentatively.

    richmtb
    Full Member

    Thanks elliot

    I might just drop the guys at burgtec a line and ask

    robinlaidlaw
    Free Member

    I’ve got a set of Burgtec bushing that I bought for my 5Spot on the basis of those sort of recommendations. Fortunately, I actually let all the air out the shock and saw no clearance at all at the seatstay bridge before fitting them. It cannot possibly work as the wheel starts and finishes higher in the travel with the offset bushings, so if there is so little clearance just now it will definitely hit if you try to make it move another 5 or 6mm. Some of the frames may be a little different due to tolerances but there was no chance on mine.
    I’d suggest that folk that are getting away with it are riding a ticking time bomb and a few really big hits will damage the frame pretty quickly.

    richmtb
    Full Member

    Thanks robin

    for the avoidance of doubt its this frame:

    robinlaidlaw
    Free Member

    Well, mine had the painted rear end but basically, you are trying to make the shock eye-to-eye length 4 or 5mm shorter. Judging by the proportions of the rocker, that’ll move the seatstays bridge in by 1.5x that, so at least 6 or 7mm. If you don’t have that much clearance at full bottom out just now, it won’t work. Also have a look at the bottom link under the seat tube at full compression, there’s not much clearance there either.
    I did run an angle set for a bit, which helps and always ran the sag on the rear a bit more than Turner suggest, typically 17-18mm on the shock shaft, which also helps. If you don’t have forks already longish forks, i.e 150 or 160mm travel will also work well to keep things a bit slacker and it doesn’t feel at all unbalanced with 160mm 36s on the front.

    richmtb
    Full Member

    I run 150mm Revs up front but they aren’t a particularly long fork for that travel.

    I’ll take all the air out of the shock tonight and check the clearance.

    If its tight then I guess an Angleset is the way to go

    granny_ring
    Full Member

    If it helps, I put a wc headset in my HL spot and notice the difference.
    Not tried the bushings so cant comment on those.

    Scienceofficer
    Free Member

    I’d not worry about what Hora says. When it comes to bikes he doesn’t know his ass from his elbow.

Viewing 12 posts - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)

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