Is this any more complicated than doing it on an MTB?

Are there any real benefits? Keep getting crappy punctures and wondering if this is the solution!

Yes and no – it’s not a good idea to do anything ghetto, as the bead may well blow off the rim.

I wasn’t too sure about this, can’t claim to really understand why it blows off when tubeless but not when tubed, but people have had it happen and it’s something the proper tubeless tyres and rims are designed against.

Edit – not sure about the benefits, you should be able to get a slightly faster rolling tyre for the same amount of puncture resistance.

Not tried it myself on road bikes. Though it do run tubeless gravel/cross tyres and mtb.

One of my riding buddies was very pro tubeless road tyres. He and the rest of his riding group seem to have given up on it. Mainly due to the hassle and mess of changing the tubeless tyre when you do get a puncture out on the road.

Works fine provided you stick to tubeless tyres – rims less important. One issue is that although punctures may seal, the tyre may fail to hold sufficient pressure when reinflated. Then a repair is needed that is less convenient than swapping a tube.

So better out on the road, more work to fix properly after/

But the ride of my Corsa Speeds 😯 just wow!

Yep, I can’t get non-tubeless tyres to hold any pressure much higher than about 60psi before tye sidewalls start to leak air, I think it’s because the sealant gets pushed out.

Not sure if it has any basis, but I wouldn’t be putting 100psi in a tyre not designed to run without an inner tube, whether the side walls were leaking before that or not. Its got to be more to do with bead design and strength than whether the rubber is porous or not!

Picto –
Not tried it myself on road bikes. Though i do run tubeless gravel/cross tyres and mtb.

Same here. Off road I went tubeless mainly to stop pinch flats.
On road I’m not sure there’s as much reason to for the faff involved.

Did it with my new wheels and tyres, pro ones on primes. Both designed with tubeless in mind.

I had to use an airshot to get them up, so slightly harder than most mtb tyres I’ve tried.

On the road.. Honestly can’t tell the difference running my 25 mm tyres at 85 psi compared to my old GP 4000s at 100psi. I certainly wouldn’t make a wheel/tyre choice in future based on tubeless compatability..

However I also would not try any home bodges with equipment that isn’t specifically tubeless ready. On mtbs at low speeds and pressures I’d take the risk, but on road on a 45 mph decent.. Not a chance

I did run Conti Ultra Sports tubeless on Stan’s rims. No issues on a 200km audax at 80 psi.
I now run tubeless Roubaixs at 60psi for on and off road.

+1

use a proper tubeless tyre
you get to run lower pressures, so better grip and comfort
you minimise thorn/small glass punctures

+2 tubeless on road. I tried ghettoing a conti. Didn’t work the tyres are way thinner than mtb. Using Schwalbe one. No issues. Run at 70psi. Way better than tubes I think they’re actually faster. Certainly a better feel on the road with a lot less road vibration. And no their not draggy

I’ve used non-tubeless rims no problem but agree need tubeless tyres.

One problem you don’t get with MTB is that low volume means difficult to inflate without the valve core – you lose all the air getting it back in. Anyone have a way around this?

Anyone have a way around this?

milKit valves

Thanks, will have a look at those

Once the bead seats properly, it shouldn’t matter if they fully deflate or not because the bead stays in place. Unless you’re unlucky and the bead keeps wanting to pop back down into the centre of the rim.

I’ve had nothing but trouble with road tubeless so I’m back to running tubes.

Both set ups I’ve used have been tubeless specific wheels and tubeless specific Schwalbe tyres. With both set ups I’ve managed to puncture and they’ve never sealed. Ended up using tubes to get me home and having to patch the tyres despite the holes pretty small.
Needless to say, I’m not the biggest fan of road tubeless!

A an experiment, I mounted non-tubeless GP4 Seasons on Ksyrium rims. Like shermer, I struggled to make them seal seal of blew off at under 100psi. With resulting mess in the dining room!

Airshot is your friend for road tubeless. Often the bead won’t seat on non tubeless rims but the seal will be sufficient to replace th valve core and get them to seal with the track pump.

This season I wrote off two Corsa Speeds, one completely trashed, the other now has a tube. Still a fan.