Just taken Bonty Jones XR tyres off my old wheels to put on my new 719s. I’ve cleaned them, wrapped them with 2 layers of decent 18mm electrical tape, cut a hole and put the valve through, cleaned the tyres, popped them on, filled with a cup and a half of Stan’s, popped the remaining tyre on, sponged on soapy water around both sides, stuck a CO2 cart on, pumped up and emptied the cartridge. Used 3 carts and got a bit annoyed so put my tubes in.

I also tried a track pump.

Short of going up the garage and using the air line, the only thing I assume is that pre-used tubeless tyres stretch a bit?

Any ideas, oh learned ones?

They could be baggy, but my virtually worn out rear Spesh Fast Trak went up no problem. Stretching a new tyre overnight with a tube in is often recommended too.

What leaps out at me though, beyond not using rim strips which aren’t essential, is that you’ve got the Stan’s in before you’ve seated the beads tubeless for the first time. The method in their videos has you doing this first, then popping s short section off, drop the Stan’s in, reseat tubeless, then shake/bounce all around until the leaks stop. I guess it might not make a difference though.

Any ideas, oh learned ones?

Yes, a few to start you off. In this order:
1. Use loads of neat fairy liquid rubbed all around the bead before you fit it. It’s not just to show the bubbles, it helps seat the tyre evenly and also I suspect it helps it get that initial early seal.
2. Mount with a tube in first and leave it inflated for an hour or two like that.
3. Try to leave one bead in place whilst you remove the tube. Not always possible but makes life easier if you can do it.
4. Remove the valve core if you need to get more air in there quicker than it escapes.
5. If all else fails, a pump-up garden sprayer makes a good compressor. Just fold/clamp the hose with a pair of molgrips whilst you build up the pressure, then remove the grips.
Hope some of that helps.

Ah Ok i think that makes SOME sense. Pump up with the tube in to 40-50psi? Or higher, to “lock it in”?

But when I let the air out, I’m going to have to completely remove one side to get the tube out and the Stans valve back in. So put the wheel horizontal so the bead ground side stays there? EDIT: Suppose I could pop a small section off, cut the tube with scissors and pull it out leaving virtually all of the bead both sides in place?

It’s bloody pitch black now. I’ll have a squiz in the morning.

Thanks for the tips. I guess once you’ve done it correctly once it’s bloody easy next time!?

and that your tyres are too full of holes already?

They could be, but I can’t inflate them to tell. :/

Pump up with the tube in to 40-50psi

Correct, doesn’t need any more than that.

But when I let the air out, I’m going to have to completely remove one side to get the tube out and the Stans valve back in

Correct, that’s what you do, leaving the other side firmly on the bead if you can.

EDIT: Suppose I could pop a small section off, cut the tube with scissors and pull it out leaving virtually all of the bead both sides in place?

NO! you will achieve nothing by cutting the tube. You have already broken the bead/rim seal on that side. This is unavoidable. Don’t waste a perfectly good tube for nothing.

Don’t go over 40psi.

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/gone-tubleless-wont-stay-up

There’s a reason Stan’s tell you not to.

Loads of good pointers so far. Here is my addition.

You can get old tyres to work as tubeless, even ghetto tubeless. Check them for cuts and tears carefully.

Inflate with a tube installed to seat the bead on the rim. Break one bead to get the tube out and to re insert the removable valve stem. brush plenty of soapy water over the bead and get some all over the spokes as you may be leaking here and round the valve stem. Take the core out of the valve stem, it is nigh on impossible to get enough air in quick enough with the core fitted IME. Pump up to reseat the bead. finger over the valve stem is fine for initial checking of leaks/bubbles. Check where the bubbles are coming from, anything untoward? When you are happy that it is generally air tight you can get some Stans etc in through the valve stem. The clean nozzle from a caulking tube works ok as a funnel. Re insert the valve core and re inflate.

Other tips are to put a tube round the outside of the tyre like a big rubber band to help with initial inflation to seat the bead.

D’oh yeah put a tube round the outside. Genius. I did have the wheel wedged beteen the wall, a chair, the floor and pressed down on the top with my hand. i was gonna use a bungee cord but a tube. Of course. *slaps head*

Well, I’m not planning on going out any time this weekend. Spent the whole night throwing up which was agony at 4am as there was nothing left, and when I wasn’t throwing up I was sat on the loo. I literally ache EVERYWHERE I doubt I could lift my leg over my crossbar. Which was nice.

Yep valve out for better air entry.

I’ve done a few recently but not with old tyres.

LBS advice (mate) is stans tape is the best he has tried. Use that if you can (or are having issues – I wasn’t paying for it either) lots of soapy water all round it and no sealant till you know it’s going to go up – otherwise it’s a waste. Also the new Jo’s little bottles fit inside a removable presta valve so no need to break the seal just to add the fluid.

After that you may be onto rim strips. The compressor makes a big difference but with the valve out the track pump method seems to work fine.

Can you run 719’s tubeless? I thought Mavic tubeless all started with an 8?

Can you run 719’s tubeless? I thought Mavic tubeless all started with an 8?

Yep, you just have to seal the holes with the tape.
It’s not a UST rim but most are not really anyway.