Viewing 17 posts - 1 through 17 (of 17 total)
  • Tubeless: what am I doing wrong?
  • Dogsby
    Full Member

    Hello All,

    I bought some Joes No Flats and fitted it to my front wheel with Nobby Nic EVOs with no problems. I then turn to the back wheel about a week later. Followed the same process and wheel goes up okay. However, there seems to be a number of leaks from the side wall where sealant comes out but they do not seem to be sealing properly. Hence the tyre is soft after a number of hours.

    Do I need new/different sealant, a new tyre or an inner tube!

    Cheers as always

    Dogsby

    doug_basqueMTB.com
    Full Member

    Happens with non tubeless tyres I find. You need to ride them a bit to keep the sealant swirling round and seal all the holes. If there´s plenty of sealant in there then I´d go for a local ride with a good pump 🙂

    Steve-Austin
    Free Member

    Sit the wheels horizontal on a bucket for half hour, repeat other side. The holes should have sealed

    svalgis
    Free Member

    Yeah, pump it up and go for a ride seems to be the best way (and leave it on it’s side overnight afterwards).

    MarkN
    Free Member

    +1 on top of the bucket and flip over after 5-10 mins.

    Dogsby
    Full Member

    Steve, Mark,

    Cheers for that idea and I am now giving it a go. It is actually on the kitchen table on a bowl as Mrs D is away, otherwise it would be in a bucket in the garage!

    I will let you know how it goes….

    Dogsby

    peteimpreza
    Full Member

    You are not using a UST tyre or a UST rim.

    househusband
    Full Member

    I don’t think you are actually doing anything wrong; non-TLR, non-UST Schwalbe tyres tend to have thin, porous sidewalls.

    porlus
    Free Member

    Did my rear wheel last friday.
    Nobby Nic Evo, non ust on stans crest with yellow tape and sealant. Took a few attempts at getting the bead the pop. Finally managed it, was leaking so did the jiggle and rotate. Thought it was leaking a touch so laid on the side in a bucket as recommended. Did approx 30 mins each side. Has held most of the pressure so far. Loads better than the Rocket Ron I tried. Was as soft as a soft thing after a couple of days.

    JoeG
    Free Member

    It is actually on the kitchen table on a bowl as Mrs D is away

    POIDH! 😀

    OrangeLad
    Free Member

    When I set my wheels up tubeless I ran the bath and rotated them till I could see where the leaks were then gave them a good shake with that area at the bottom. Seemed to work well and they have stayed up since I was lucky as Mrs Orange was working that day so I got away with it.

    Dogsby
    Full Member

    The tyre is holding up well this morning. Thanks for all of the advice.

    Dgsby

    Dogsby
    Full Member

    Right, still suffering from a slowly deflating tyre. I have now put it is a sink and it appears to be leaking from the base of the valve where it goes into the rim. Whilst under water I can see sealant slowly leaking out into the water but no air. I suspect there is a fault in the rim strip so might be sending it back to CRC. Any thoughts?

    Cheers

    Dogsby a

    mattmbk
    Free Member

    One of mine did that and I found loosening the valve rather than tightening it helped the seal. Just about finger tight and a bit of wiggling then left wheel with valve at bottom for a while. Been fine now for 2 years.

    sunnrider
    Free Member

    You could try cutting a small circle of old tube and stick it over the valve hole. Then shove the valve through that.

    chives
    Free Member

    If you’ve got sealant in there I’d try holding the wheel out in front of you, with the valve furthest from you (if that’s where it’s losing air from) and adopt a ‘panning for gold’ motion, to slop some sealant around the base of the valve on the inside.

    Schwalbe tyres always leak a little IME, but the snakeskin sidewall variety are much better,(and feel better on the trail too, at lower pressures). HTH

    johnhighfield
    Free Member

    If air gets past the rim strip / tape it tends to get into the hollow section of the rim & comes out through the valve stem. I tend to use several layers of electricians PVC tape wound tightly onto a clean rim to seal it. I have tried to use yellow tape but it was too wide for my rim & did not seem very flexible. I also use some mastic on the inside of the valve stem as it goes through the tape for surity.

    I’ve just put a new set of Racing Ralphs on a new set of Crests which were incredibly tight – wrecking a set of tyre levers. After using up 4 Co2 cartridges with soapy water I had to resort to my compressor to get them to ‘snap’ into place.

Viewing 17 posts - 1 through 17 (of 17 total)

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