OK – I bought a Stans tubeless kit to convert one of my bikes rear wheel to tubeless after getting constant punctures – All went well, the tyre went up with a track pump and has stayed up.

I got a pinch flat on my other bike at the weekend and decided to do the rear wheel of that one too with the left over tubeless bits. Setup is exactly the same as before (Maxis Lust and DT swiss) just a slightly different rim – E530 instead of M480.

This time the tire went up as normal but in the morning I found the valve had blown out and was sitting in the void in the middle of the rim – tyre obviously flat. I was able (with some effort) to push the valve back from where it came but I shouldn’t really be able to do this – it should be too wide but the rubber bit on the valve is barely wider than the hole.

I did think there might be an issue when I was setting it up – as I tightened the lock ring on the valve it just kept turning – never becoming tight. Clearly it was making its way through the hole as I turned.

I tried the setup again leaving the lock ring loose but the valve blasted out again.

Is this a tolerance issue?
Was I too aggressive with the lock ring (only finger tightened)?
Should I buy another valve and try again?
Anyone experienced this?

cut a small circle of inner tube, hole in the middle and push it on the valve stem – will increase effective size of the rubber bit at the end?

I’ve got one rim where I drilled it with the ‘right’ sized drill as per stans instructions but the rubber bit on the valve doesn’t go past the edges that much (it’s not not pushed through yet – I ‘d probably do the above if it did).

What wwaswas said ^^

Alternatively, you could try one of the American Classic valves as they have a wider flange than most.

Others are also available but I like these ones.

The superstar valves work really well for this too, they’ve got a bigger cone on the base.

(I thought the stans rim strip kits had the valve sealed into the rim strip… Are you using tape and valve?)

Not using rim strip – just Stans tape and valve but it worked on the other wheel. Thanks for the advice – just ordered a DT Swiss valve. Would have thought they would work with there own rims……. 😕

Bit late to suggest this, but you can use a normal presta valve cut out of an old inner tube, leave a decent circle of rubber at the base. Have a couple of these on the go and they have been fine.

thanks – I might use this technique till the valve arrives, so I can ride on Wednesday

I’ve had good success with ghetto’d valves from old tubes. Though ideally you want ones that have removable cores. Not all tubes do.

ndthornton – Member

Not using rim strip – just Stans tape and valve but it worked on the other wheel. Thanks for the advice – just ordered a DT Swiss valve. Would have thought they would work with there own rims…….

FWIW DT rims are pretty variable, frinstance I tried to tape-and-valve a 5.1, it mounted and sealed but it wasn’t safe to ride on, burped and rolled off with even slight side pressure. I’ve not done a 530 though.

Set up a ghetto tubeless rim last night with an old valve works a treat.

Maybe try a wrap or two or extra tape and make a smaller hole in it?

FWIW DT rims are pretty variable, frinstance I tried to tape-and-valve a 5.1, it mounted and sealed but it wasn’t safe to ride on, burped and rolled off with even slight side pressure. I’ve not done a 530 though.

Although my experience is limited to only 2 tubeless wheels (one of which the valve has blown out of) I can definitely recommend Maxis LUST tyres.

Every time they pump up first time with the track pump without even bothering to seat the bead – no burping or losing air either. I have high hopes of this latest setup being just as reliable as the last. I know UST tyres weigh a bit but the sidewalls are so sturdy they give you a lot more confidence that the tyre will stay put permanently. Tubeless ready tyres just seem so floppy. I haven’t tried proper getto TR tubeless but to be honest I dont think I would want to.

You could always just add a washer to the inside.

@ND- sometimes it’s a rim thing, the DT 5.2 has a really narrow bead “shelf” frinstance so the tyre’s not supported well enough, UST makes no odds there. But I reckon you’re right, a stiffer sidewall (whether UST or just heavier duty) is sometimes better

Hi, I’m going tubeless and just realise I bought the stans kit with a harder valves instead of presta. Here’s my question, if I have ust rims do I need the rubber rim strips or will I be ok ghettoing an old inner tube?

Cheers,
Dan