Hi all,

Thought I would give tubeless a try so currently have rear tubeless, front tubed. Set up is Rubber Queen 26 x 2.2, standard BC front tyre, rear is UST version, both on Flow Ex rims with Stans tape and sealant in the rear.

I managed to get a small cut in the rear a few days ago just off the centreline of the tread pattern. Cut is about 3 mm long and managed to spray quite a lot of fluid out before finally sealing – took overnight to really seal properly. Understand cuts can be difficult to seal so benefit of the doubt on that one although I had expected it cope a bit better than it did.

I’ve since noticed that I have 6 pin-punctures in the rear as well. All have sealed in terms of retaining pressue but if I leave the bike to stand overnight, I can see dark patches around each penetration where there’s clearly still some fluid leaking out – all are within the tread pattern.

So, questions to those more experienced that me:

1. Is the sealant leakage normal – if not, any ideas how I can stop it?
2. Are tubeless setups more prone to punctures that tubed setups – rear has 7 punctures now, front has none?

FWIW, running 26/23 psi r/f.

Stu

My first set of ust rubber queens leaked from various places constantly and leaked so much the stans went off and I got the dreaded rubber ball noise. I e mailed continental they couldn’t give a shit I sent pics of the leaks to the place I bought the tyres and they sent me a new set and they have been perfect.
One other thing is I know a few people have been sold non ust as ust tyres because non ust will seal with enough stans

1 my experience is once thorn holes seal, they stay sealed. Is your sealant fresh? Plenty of it left or has it most/all gone out through that slit?
2 not in my experience

Next time you have that tyre off perhaps put a patch over that slit (I’ve used dead tyre rubber in the past, and superglue).

I have puncture issues with tubeless. You are not alone. Various brand tyres too. I seem to have more messing about and time wasting with tubeless too.

It’s true tubeless can be a bit of a faff, but one of the benefits is you bring that faff under your control and do it at home when you want, instead of faffing about with flats on the trail. Changing tubes on a cold wet November night ride isn’t fun.

S’why I use Hutchinson tyres. Pricey, but they work. No faff.

Changing tubes on a cold wet November January, February, March, April,July, August, September, October, November, December night ride isn’t fun.

FTFY.

An optimist! You left out may and June.

If you have a split in the tyre the sealant will not necessarily do the trick long term. You can plug the hole with a rubber repair strip that a couple of people make (like this from Panaracer) and the hole is then properly fixed.

For reference when my last pair of High Rollers wore out after 4 lots of sealant top up and the tread wearing out I stopped counting at 60 thorns poking in to the inside of the tyre. That was a lot of faff saved so I guess it is worth it.

UK Climate: 7 months of winter followed by 5 months of bad weather.

Did you use stans fluid?
Did you shake the bottle a lot before use?
Take the wheels off pump tyres up to a higher pressure than you normally use and give the wheel a good shake ensuring sealant (and little rubber balls) get into all holes.. Leave overnight and and reduce pressured to you desired level and they should be good to go.
Tubeless can be a pain setting up but I rarely get any issues now.
Also I find specialized 2-bliss tyres to be very good especially Purgaterys.

Thanks for the replies everyone.

@mattjg – sealant is only a few weeks old so still very fresh. Good point about bringing the whole thing under your control rather than repairing on the trail, though.

@manton69 – worms ordered! Thanks.

@ian martin – yes, Stans fluid from a new 2 oz bottle well shaken before adding. I’ve already tried inflating to higher than normal pressure then reducing – no effect but thanks for the suggestion.

I wonder if the loss of fluid from the slit before it eventually sealed has allowed so much fluid to escape so that there aren’t enough ‘balls’ left to seal the other holes properly? Also wondered whether the release agent from tyre manufacture process (on the inside of the carcass) is preventing a seal – perhaps next time clean inside with IPA before adding sealant?

Tempted to take the tyre off, clean up, patch slit from inside, clean any residual release agent internally with IPA and try again.

Still seems odd why I’ve got 7 holes in the rear tubeless tyre and none in the front tubed tyre. I know they don’t always follow the same line but……!!

Stu

I also get lots of these dark patches. Also only in the tread. My rubber queen has been doing this for ages but it is getting on a bit. And it isn’t losing air unduly.

I wondered whether it was a solvent or something as the fluid deteriorates getting through little old puncture holes.

I think it’s on Stans fluid too.

And @ian martin – Spesh Purgatory’s are next on my shortlist to try after the RQs! Probably after the winter where I’ll be trying out Conti Barons that I’ve picked up already. 😆

Still seems odd why I’ve got 7 holes in the rear tubeless tyre and none in the front tubed tyre. I know they don’t always follow the same line but……!!

It’s an odd ratio, but the rear does carry a lot more weight than the front, so there is more pressure perhaps to help the spikes break through. I’ve not had this effect – I’ve had one proper tubeless flat in 18 months of twice weekly riding, and that was a split in a very flimsy race tyre. Rear FWIW. (I had that happen another time too, it self-sealed).

Also bear in mind you’re saving yourself from pinch flats.

I use Schwalbes & Stans fluid, I’ve never seen the dark patch effect.

Tip: on the trail if you ever have to put a tube in your tubeless tyre, remember to feel around inside first for embedded thorns!

Sounds like a dodgy tyre to me