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  • Tubeless for beginners….quick question honest!
  • grumpster
    Free Member

    I have a new bike en route and I would like to take the leap into being this century and convert it to tubeless.

    Bike is equipped with “Schwalbe Racing Ralph, 27.5×2.25 Performance Folding” which I understand aren’t tubeless compatible?

    Would a Stans kit work on these without any hassle or am I better of buying some different tubeless specific tyres? I don’t have time or patience to be forever fixing punctures so I am looking for a reliable setup that doesn’t require lots of fiddling.

    Thanks.

    Murray
    Full Member

    They’re probably OK. If you see lots of Stan’s leaking out through the sidewalls give up and replace with tubeless ready. I’d also seat using CO2 bulb first, then deflate, add Stan’s and reinflate.

    patagonian
    Free Member

    I have exactly those tyres and yes you can make them tubeless. However you will get a lot of leaks through the sidewalls until they settle done and I had to add a bit extra Stans fluid to cure that. I’d also say it’s really important to go for a ride to spread the fluid around the inside of the tyre.

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    whatyadoinsucka
    Free Member

    watch the youtube videos i’ve recently done a few tyres (non tubeless no problem) , joe’s is an ok video as is stans. (main difference being inserting fluid through valve core or the bottom of the tyre before putting into the rim

    dont bother with the yellow stans tape, i was chatting to a lbs guy and he swears by gorilla tape, £2.80 a roll, work out the width on inner rim and tear, or put a slight cut to start the tear, it will then tear around the roll pretty straight. once taped put in the valves put the tyre on and either seat the tyre and add fluid through the core or as stans, pour in just before the final bit of tyre,

    i used a joe blow pump and it gave a reassuring bang and crack when the tyre seated.

    hold the tyre two handed and shake whilst passing the tyre around, so the sealant fully covers the inner, then rest on a bucket each side for 10-15 mins.

    good to go

    garage-dweller
    Full Member

    Not done the schwalbes but I’ve had some success with non tubeless contis.

    If the sidewalls are really porous then painting sealant on them before fitting can help. Use a cheap as chips brush though because the sealant will not do it any favours.

    Gunz
    Free Member

    I’ve also always found it useful to re-insert the inner tube after putting on the tape and really pumping it up hard, helps to properly squish the tape down into place.

    BillOddie
    Full Member

    Having used Gorilla Tape, it’s not as good as Stans (and similar) tape.

    It’s slightly rougher so can stop some tyres popping into position.

    More importantly it does absorb stans fluid and leaves a right mess when you go to replace the tape.

    whatyadoinsucka
    Free Member

    Thanks BillOddie I had a feeling their would be a negative to gorilla tape and wondered about residue once changing, the stans yellow tape seemed to split at the worst moment so I gave up on it, on the gorilla I used a width enough to cover the spoke holes so never had issues with tape on the inner rim edges

    creamegg
    Free Member

    I prefer gorilla / duct tape. Find it lasts longer and less likely to get damaged by tyre levers. Far cheaper at £1 to £2 a roll too. Not had any issues with residue either

    zero-cool
    Free Member

    They should go up tubeless. But the Scwalbe sidewalls are super delicate so you’ll probably tear them in 2 minutes.
    I’ve set up quite a few Schwalbe tyres ghetto tubeless and Stans and they go up alright and stay up. Just use quite a bit of sealant and be prepared for them to leak through the sidewalls a bit until they seal. Lots of spinning and shaking of the tyre/wheel. They might gradually lose air before the first ride so re-inflate and repeat.

    Tom kp

    Northwind
    Full Member

    Clear gorilla tape apparently is better than the coloured stuff. I’ve found coloured gorilla to be really easy to fit, which seems to be a bit many folks struggle with, but it’s horrible to remove.

    I’ve never had a tyre that didn’t seal tubeless eventually; rim is more important.

    Wookster
    Full Member

    Stans tape was a right pan getting it to stick to the rim I found.

    But best tip I got. Was was to get the tape on the pop a tube back n and the tyre and inflate to a high psi leave over night, I found the tyres and tape were spot on when I first tried tubeless. (Maxxis Hi rollers)

    theotherjonv
    Full Member

    As above, you’ll probably get them to go up OK using the methods above. However, I’d be more cautious about committing a pair of OEM RR’s to tubeless if that’s your only wheelset….. if you’re going to have a fit and forget set of tyres for all year round use in the UK I wouldn’t be choosing RR’s. But that’s another thread.

    That’s the reason i haven’t gone tubeless – I’m a serial tyre changer, and the hassle of reseating and sealing each time outweighs the performance benefits.

    Northwind
    Full Member

    Wookster – Member

    Stans tape was a right pan getting it to stick to the rim I found.

    The rim needs to be clean, dry and ideally keyed- I clean, rub down with a scotch pad, then wipe with isopropyl. Doesn’t take long, apart from drying time.

    carlos
    Free Member

    My 2p’s worth.

    when I used CM’s, which are not TR I followed this and didn’t have any issues –

    Remove existing tyre, tube and rim tape
    Rub inside of rim lightly with emery cloth or similar (for a bit of key)
    Wipe rim clean and wrap 3 layers of SS rim tape round nice and tight
    Refit tyre and tube, inflate quite hard 45psi or so and leave over night
    Remove tube
    Add tubeless valve and Stans sealant (allow 1 full scoop extra)
    Wipe a bit of Stans around the bead that is loose to aid fitting
    Inflate and go on a short ride (best way to slosh about the Stans IMO)
    Readjust tyre pressure to suit you
    Enjoy being tubeless

    Carlos

    johnny5
    Free Member

    If u buy the 1 inch width gorilla tape then there is no cutting required .
    Orange solvent really helps when removing any rim tape – work it well in and leave overnight.

    Wookster
    Full Member

    Northwind – Member
    Wookster – Member
    Stans tape was a right pan getting it to stick to the rim I found.

    The rim needs to be clean, dry and ideally keyed- I clean, rub down with a scotch pad, then wipe with isopropyl. Doesn’t take long, apart from drying time.

    Tried that mate, just found it wasn’t very sticky compared to gorilla or Duck tape. Got there in the end though! 😉

    whatyadoinsucka
    Free Member

    Haha my stans tape was sticking up once I’d cut it and overlapped a bit full circle, I used some sealant but it kept popping back up so after some thought I superglued the end down, worked a treat..

    Northwind
    Full Member

    Wookster – Member

    Tried that mate, just found it wasn’t very sticky compared to gorilla or Duck tape.

    Oh yeah, no doubt there, it’s much less sticky. But it doesn’t really need to be all that sticky

    grumpster
    Free Member

    Well – Stan’s kit is ordered and will be here before the new bike!

    Will try the RRs although I am tempted to flog them on unused and buy some tubeless specific tyres to avoid hassle. Ho hum…

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