I’ve just spent another fruitless hour trying to mount some Shwalbe Rocket Rons on my Superstar wheels. Not for the first time has this combination completly beaten me. I have a set of Roval rims than mount the Spesh tyres with nothing but a few breaths from a track pump but these are right rascals.

So I find myself once more checking prices of Airshots, Bontrager TLR Flash pumps, Topeak Joe Blows and contemplating the purchase.

But… Having been tubeless a couple of years now I’m just not sure it is worth all the effort it seems to take me. Even when I’m riding tubed I don’t often puncture. I’m not a weight weenie, and quite frankly I could do without the bother and expense (gallons of Stan’s, tubeless valves, co2 canisters). It’s not like I don’t still ride with spare tubes and a pump anyway!

So do I take the plunge and spend £80 on a swanky pump gizmo to get things working a bit more easily or take the money, spend half on a takeaway and the rest on spare tubes and patches.

For the record I’ve made and broken a coke bottle flash pump thingy, I’ve tried and failed with the cut inner tube trick, I’ve cut the old valves out of every tyre I have, and use gorilla tape instead of Stan’s rim tape (and it works really well).

Basically I’m just not sure I can be bothered any more. Is tubeless really worth it? I’m losing my faith!

I reached a similar conclusion a couple of years ago. I’d been tubeless for about a year until I punctured on a night ride and it wouldn’t seal. Stuck a tube in and didn’t puncture again for the next six months so just left it in. When it came to changing tyres I couldn’t be arsed to go back to tubeless.Not sure I’d bother again.

Much like the heretics of the Middle Ages; your words are both sacrilegious and perfectly sensible.

fashion a presta to shraeder adapter, stick wheels, tyres an stans in car, drive to petrol station, use air hose to seat tyres in seconds.

Do you like more grip and less rolling resistance?
If so, buy an Airshot, if not spend the cash on some therapy.

Never needed more than a decent track pump, valve core removed and a squirty bottle of water/fairy liquid.
After returning from the Alps with 20 visibly sealed holes and cuts, I’m glad I didn’t have tubes.

Just to add to techniques tried and cursed.
I put a strap around the tyres centre line and tension it a bit. Reduces the tyres volume and helps push out the bead. Seated tyres with just a track pump this way.

When tubeless works it is great, but finding how low you can go is tricky and when it goes wrong it is a right pain. I’ve stuck with it due to the number of thorns I find in my tyres when they finally fail.

I feel your pain, got the same issue with rolling Ralph pacestar and hope enduro wheels,
Even the airshot hasn’t worked.. Done all the regular tips and wasted 7-8 hours so far

Does it need an extra wrap of tape?

I found my Racing Ralph wouldn’t seat – just going down straight away – until I did that. It made it a bit tighter to put on but not massively.

rs – Member
fashion a presta to shraeder adapter

Or buy one for 80p

I’ve been t’less for years, didn’t have any punctures until I recently told a mate this when on a ride – 10 mins later, you guessed it! then got another two in two weeks. However 3 punctures in best part of 10 years I can’t complain. Interestingly I never had punctures with stans sealant, it was only when I swapped over to juice lubes brand, I’ve since gone back to stan’s. as for getting tyres seated I use an airshot but if you’re having prob’s I used to put a tube in first leave it for a day or two, then gently remove tube so you’re only breaking bead on one side, you’re only reseating one side now, that worked well (usually).

Co2 fire extinguisher for 30 quid and a track pump hose. Will seat anything, just be careful. Once the Co2 runs out you can then turn it into a better version of the coke bottle jobbie.

Top tips. Thanks all. Still undecided. The problem bike now has one tubeless and one tubed. I suspect I’ll be spending the cash because I just don’t like being beaten.

It makes me want to recreate that Fawlty Towers scene and give it a ‘damn good thrashing’. So if you see me beating the crap out of a Stanton Somewhere in Surrey then call the nurse.

I love tubeless so I’d keep soldiering on. I do, however, ride a fair few places that are cursed with many many brambles and thorn punctures would drive me completely loopy pretty quickly.

To get some help seating stubborn ones I use lots of neat Halfords Advanced car shampoo brushed round the bead (cheapo paint brush). It seems to have a really unusual, thick but slippy consistency that’s ideal for helping the bead seat (think like thick shower gel) and is my go to for stubborn **** tyres.

Disclaimer: the current bottle is c.3 years old – it may have changed since.

Tubeless is the bizznizz, faff at home not on the trail. Would never go back to tubes , But do want you want and don’t stress it . Either way get the takeaway

Just make sure you pick a tried and tested rim/tyre combo – I’ll never run inner tubes again – 4 years 2 punctures – I’ve had 5 punctures on one ride back in the dark ages ..

Tried several times using various ghetto methods on a pair of old Mavic 719s and failed miserably, have reverted back to tubes.

However, I also run tubeless on a set of Stans Arches and have had no problems whatsoever, can only conclude it comes down to the rim dimensions/shape.

In terms of performance I don’t think there’s much between tubeless and tubed anyway , biggest advantage is puncture protection. IMO of course. 😀