I bought these http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/TYSCRCKRF/schwalbe-rocket-ron-performance-folding-tyre to go on a WTB all mountain rim with Stans tubeless kit.

Am I able to run the tyres with tubes until the tubeless kit comes and then just fit the tubeless kit?

I would think so.

No I dont think so. The Stans kit is only to make your rims tubeless not the tyres. You will need tubeless tyres which will prob be 3 times the price of them

Ah that might be problem….Might just cancel the tubeless kit then

Actually it states on the website [ You can convert any tires except for the following brands: Hutchinson Air Light].

Don’t listen to squiff, any tyre can be run tubeless as long as you use enough sealant to seal any imperfections in the tyre. I have managed to seal the thinnest of lightweight tyres in the past.

Yes, will all work fine. You don’t need tubeless specific tyres.

I thought stans was supposed to convert any tyre to tubeless..You just need the sealant in there to make it work… Have a look on the stans website there’s vids on there to show how its done.

Ah right cheers guys

ruscle

Not saying your wrong, but why do they make tubeless tyres then?

I throught normal tyres dont sit on the rim like a tubeless tyres does.

squiff – I think you’re thinking of tubulars as used for (some) road bikes…

‘proper’ UST tubeless tyres can be used with no sealant. They have a closer tolerance fit with the rim/bead and typically a thicker tread to ensure it’s airtight.

And weigh twice as much too…

Which is obviously why people prefer normal tyres plus sealant (and the obvious benefit of self repairing punctures.

clubber

I have only just gone tubeless a few weeks ago and I have just gone off what other people have said to me, both my tyres are LUST with sealent. I didnt know that you can make a standard tyre tubeless, Personally I would stick to tubeless tyres for this as thats what there made for.

Does anyone have a link on how to make standard tyres tubeless?

I didnt know that you can make a standard tyre tubeless, Personally I would stick to tubeless tyres for this as thats what there made for.

The problem with UST tyres is they are so damn heavy.

Sometimes the bike industry lags behind the garage faffers 🙂

LUST aren’t ‘proper’ UST tyres anyway – Lightweight Ultimate Sidewall Technology. They’re not particularly heavy, just designed with sealant use in mind.

LUST
An acronym which stands for “Lightweight Ultimate Sidewall Technology.” The outside of the casing is covered in a lightweight material and an airtight rubber compound resulting in a durable tire that is lightweight with excellent air retention.

squiff – Member
Does anyone have a link on how to make standard tyres tubeless?

Use sealant basically. Exactly as per using your LUST tyres.

Clicky for tubeless instruction

UST beads ‘lock’ to the rim wall, so they’re a very good fit on the rim. They’re expensive, and true UST tyres are heavy.

There’s been a raft of LUST/Tubless Ready/2Bliss tyres in recent years which have tubless beads, but lightweight carcasses, necessetating the using of sealant (which most people did anyway).

Many brands of ‘normal’ tyre (Schwalbe and Maxxis most notably) will actually work very well anyway, although 2011 Schwalbe Evos have tubeless beads. Some won’t (notably Panaracer) the bead just isn’t a good enough fit on the rim and is prone to blowing off.

To ensure compatibility a UST or Tubeless Ready tyre is the safest bet. However a bit of research and careful selection means that normal tyres can work as well, whilst generally costing and weighing less.

I personally use older Schwalbes, have about 5 sets, all will go straight up with a track pump and stay up.

I bought some of these and tried running them on my Stans rims with plenty of wheel milk in and following the shaking routine to the letter, they leaked wheel milk like a colander, I’ve never seen a sidewall so porous, it looked as though I’d had about 100 punctures. Also be careful of sidewall strength on some of these so called Tubeless Ready tyres, I had a Specialized “The Captain” roll off the rim causing a fairly nasty over the bars incident. IMO Maxxis LUST and Conti UST are the safest bet but they are heavier than most.

On my 2 bikes, I’ve got one set of Flow, and one set of Bontegra Ranger rims. I’m using bog standard 2.25 advantage tyres on both bikes.

Not had any problems with the flows at all (apart from initial inflating issues which I solved with use of CO2. I can’t for the life of me get the rangers to even start to stay up. I’ve used stans tape for the rim, do I need to use a rim strip as well to keep the tyres up?

Just to add my 2p worth….

I’ve ran both tubeless and non tubeless tyres, both, as others have said can be ran tubeless. The difference for me is longevity. Tubeless tyres (especially when ran at low pressures) generally have stronger sidewalls and therefore last longer.

IME they are also A LOT easier to inflate

I’m not going to repeat what everyone else has said other than to say, yes you can.

Though the Rocket Rons are a very light weight tire and will require quite a bit of time spent on sealing up the sidewalls. They are quite porous on the first inflation.

Aye, as above, you can but personally I’d only use a lightweight standard tyre (like the RoRon) tubeless for racing not for every day use as the sidewalls are a lot more fragile and the chances of burping at lower pressures increased.

Using the Rocket Ron as tubeless with sealant is probably the best way to run them. The Mrs had them on her race bike running tubes as standard (she won’t run tubeless)and got punctures every single ride. Some Stans sealant should prevent that though.

Been running Maxxis ADvantage and Schwalbe Smart Sam non-UST as ghetto tubeless for months and both have been flawless, as has an old Weirwolf and 26″ and 29″ Bonty Mud X tubeless ready.

Top tip is to use clothes washing gel thinned down a little for the initial seating process – works a treat and track pump is usually sufficient.

For sealing the rim holes try getting hold of some Gorrilla Tape – it’s uber strength and super sticky gaffer tape that although seemingly expensive will do for loads and loads of wheels. Massively cheaper than a stans kit when you can pick up cheap 20″ inner tubes from Tescos.

Tubeless tyres (especially when ran at low pressures) generally have stronger sidewalls and therefore last longer.

This is the problem though… that only applies to true UST tyres, which are becoming more scarce because they’re so heavy and expensive.

More and more companies (Schwalbe, Bontrager, Specialized, Conti) are going to ‘tubeless ready’ which are totally standard carcasses, just with a tubeless bead.

Agreed, but the LUST tyres i’ve used (and that are on at the minute) still seem to have more robust sidewalls. Totally agree its a trade of with weight vs longevity but isn’t it always 😉

I think someone said above that race day would be something like a RR and the rest would (IMO) be something UST. This is all just my opinion of course. 🙂

– Drag bike out of shed to go for ride
– Notice tyre has weeped loads of sealant through sidewall and is flat
– Tip in a new measure of sealant, reinflate
– Enjoy ride
– Repeat day after day until sidewalls finally seal (it will happen eventually)

While this is going on you might consider storing the bike upside down with no weight on the wheels – this way the flat tyre will keep its seal on the bead rather than deforming and coming away

njee20 – Member
I personally use older Schwalbes, have about 5 sets, all will go straight up with a track pump and stay up.

njee, do you always use sealant on your schwalbes?

in fact one thing im not clear on, is sealant always required on tubeless ready, non-tubless & tubeless tyres?

If so, what is the best recommended sealant?
Stans kits sound great, but are pricey.
I have been saving up tubeless ready tyres and valves but havent taken the plunge yet.
Only time I ran tubeless I got a split on a flint track, sealant everywhere but no seal. Id love to go tubeless and eliminate punctures like others seem to manage.

one other thing, im a heavier rider and tend to run at around 50psi on tubes, im worried about mashing my rims at the recommended 40psi when going tubeless, or at least ‘burping’ more air when cornering – is this normally an issue for big riders going tubeless?

ok, have read the stan’s link and am much more clued up, thanks!

last thing, how exactly does the sealant physically prevent future punctures?
is it always in a wet state?
how often does it require topping up?

It basically seals the hole and plugs it. Its just a liquid latex type solution..

Not sure how long it lasts though.. Mine was still liquid when i swapped tyres over in the spring.. I think it had been in there about 3 months.

top up is important as I found out earlier this summer, after 4 months my jiz was dry. Its amazing stuff, I bought a pint of it and it actually seals the nozzle hole when you try to squirt it out.

Basically, when you get a puncture, the latex ‘dries’ and sets to fill the hole.

As to how often, it really depends, if it’s sealing a lot of holes, then more frequently, similar for the weather – it’ll dry faster in hot weather. Also, obviously, the more sealant you put in, the longer it’ll last but with added weight.

FWIW, my SS is 11 months since I last did it and I can still hear it sloshing around inside so I’ll leave it for a while yet. I used 100ml of sealant per wheel which will be more than many people I reckon.

took the plunge, bought a stans notubes kit today and spent most of the bloody afternoon trying to get it set up.
Had difficulty getting my Bonty Mud’s to seal as they are a really loose fit, ended up at the petrol station cursing in the dark but eventually got it together.
Then realised I was using a tyre that had previously been split…
bugger.
it leaked several times but with plenty of sloshing and patience it seems to have plugged after a brief test ride.
Im hitting the trails tomorrow, if the split lets go and I need to run with a tube, how do I go about repairing the tyre properly, a simple patch?

Yep, bit of superglue in the slit never hurts either.

njee, do you always use sealant on your schwalbes?
in fact one thing im not clear on, is sealant always required on tubeless ready, non-tubless & tubeless tyres?

I do. You don’t have to with UST, that’s the point, but a tubeless ready tyre with sealant is more puncture resistant than a UST one without, whilst weighing and costing far less. It’s why UST is rather pointless now IMO.

I will be interested to know how you get on with the rocketrons as I tried on stans crest with sealant, they sealed on the rim very easily but i couldn’t stop all the leaks through the sidewalls even with loads of sealant, how much moneys worth of sealant do you want to use for the sake of going tubeless, seemed silly to me as the more sealant you add is increasing the weight.

lodge – did you do the tubeless dance as shown on the Stans video walkthrough? It’s a very important step 🙂