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  • TT bike build dilemma, what to use?
  • mrblobby
    Free Member

    Been doing a few TTs recently and using my Giant TCR road bike with clip ons. I don’t much like doing this as it tends to stay in TT configuration and not get ridden as it should be… and obviously it goes against rule #54.

    Now I know that the real answer to this dilemma is n+1 but that would currently be a politically tricky proposition in the Blobby household and will probably need to wait until next year.

    So in the mean time I have my winter aluminium frame Trek and a steel 531 frame bike I use for the turbo. I’m thinking of converting one of these into a dedicated TT bike (proper TT bars and shifters, aero wheels, etc.) Both bikes are quite a bit heavier than the Giant but this probably isn’t too much of a problem for TTs. The steel frame might be a better bet as its a bit smaller than the alu one and may allow a better TT position. Either way I’ll hopefully end up with a better TT position and a more appropriate tool for the job, and I’ll have amassed some componentry to put on to a new frame next year.

    So which way to go? Steel or alu? Is it time for a proper bike fit? Or just ride the road bike with clip ons? And any recommendations for decent spec/price componentry much appreciated. Thanks.

    kilo
    Full Member

    And any recommendations for decent spec/price componentry much appreciated.

    My tt bike was built up on the cheap – a ribble base level tt frame and decent wheels (carbon zone 50mm on front and a secondhand disc). The vast majority of the running gear is tiagra, bar the gear levers which are dura ace. Old style dura ace gear levers are good because you can shift them onto friction mode enabling you to use a variety of rear mechs without indexing be arsed up. Tiagra brakes, gears and chainset are perfectly good for club level tt’ing. Timetrial forum is good for secndhand bits.

    mrblobby
    Free Member

    Thanks, I shall check out the TT forum. I probably only need the shifters and brake levers to make up the groupset. I was going to check out the Chinese rims for a front. I’ve got a powertap wheel with an aerojacket on the back now which will probably do me for this season.

    BIGMAN
    Free Member

    Position counts for more than anything. A good position is a 90 second saving over 10 miles – possibly more depending on bodyshape etc.

    Smaller frame not always the best. You need a big frame that allows a good stretch.

    MulletusMaximus
    Free Member

    You can make bigger time savings in other areas. Clicky

    m1kea
    Free Member

    BIGMAN – Member

    Position counts for more than anything. A good position is a 90 second saving over 10 miles

    +1

    I don’t think your choice of frame material is going to make a lot of difference but the sizing will. As you’re probably aware, presenting the smallest possible frontal area is key so the lower you can get at the front, generally speaking, the better.

    However the trade off is being able to maintain a comfortable position, especially on longer TT’s. Having your chin on the front wheel may be aerodynamic but f all use if you can’t pedal efficiently.

    You don’t mention owning one but a pointy hat does make a difference.

    TiRed
    Full Member

    Pick the frame that gets you lowest and longest. I would expect that to be the TCR though.

    mrblobby
    Free Member

    Good link there MM. I have a pointy hat, TT suit, and shoe covers, so got some of the cheaper gains covered.

    For position I reckon all the bikes probably have reasonable scope to get a good one given the right seatpost / saddle / stem / bar combination. The only real advantage of sticking with the TCR is weight/stiffness. And a few pounds of weight probably isn’t a major issue on a TT bike.

    Edit: That photo in the link reminded me, I was looking at photos of me from the last TT and I think the length is ok, I just need the front to be lower. This is from comparing the photos to other club and pro riders. Stem is pretty slammed as it is (I think about 5mm left.)

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