Struggling to set my Spyres up, they slow me down but aren’t making a massive improvement over cantis. I’m on 105 5600 levers, which are the ones before Shimano changed to more cable pull in their road levers. Just read on a roadie forum about spongy feel and lack of power when using older levers on newer calipers, this makes perfect logical sense, has anyone else upgraded their levers and found a big difference with cable disc brake performance?

I never used the standard levers with the spyres on my CDF10 but I’ve just had a pair of Tiagra levers fitted (right hand shifter, left hand brake only) and with icetech rotors the brakes are unbelievable, serious stopping power on tap!

Before you blow piles of cash on new levers, are you using compressionless cable outers?

Bez, I’m not, but am struggling to find compressionless outers for less than the cost of second-hand levers! Which is the most worthy upgrade?

My first spyres were on 105 5600 levers and currently run them on 6700 ultegra, both on linear strand/compressionless outers. I thought they felt better on the old 105! As Bez suggests a couple of quids worth of outer from your lbs will see you reet.

Have you seen the thread on here about the cables being commonly but erroneously set up on the outside of the bolt rather than on the inside where the groove is? Worth checking?

yes, cheers curto I did see that one and I had set them up correctly in the first place I was relieved to discover!

LBS only does the extortionate jagwire kits, anything cheaper worth trying or not?

Compressionless outers & good cable routing are a good shout. If you take the bar tape off check for any movement in the cable when you apply the brake, that will lead to sponginess and lack of power.

The Spyres seem a bit sensitive to set up. Mine are pretty good – not comparable to hydraulics in terms of power but they’re good enough in all conditions. They need a bit of a fettle every 200 or so km to keep the pad spacing and cable pull where it needs to be.

Edit: I used goodridge cables and they’re OK but very short and only just enough on a medium frame. The Jagwire ripcord are probably worth a shot.

Uberbike have compressionless brake cable kits for £20

If you change the levers from 5600 to 5700, the brakes will feel *less* powerful (and less spongy). More cable pull means less leverage.

Mine weren’t great either, even with compressionless outers, new pads, careful alignment and making sure there was only a slight amount of tension in the cable to minimise pulling against the caliper return spring. There isn’t much else to setup.

Only other thing you can try is taking the pads out and cleaning the calipers with gt85/wd40 etc. as they aren’t very resistant to dirt getting in. Dismantling them completely is quite fiddly.

Some people say they are good, others (like me) don’t get much performance. No idea why.

Think I’m running Goodridge cables (from CRC) and they’ve been grand.

I found using Jagwire compressionless outer, bought cheap online, and aftermarket pads – Alligator I think, the pad size is a standard Shimano one, so there’s lots of choice – made a big difference to my Spyres. The standard pads vaporise in the wet anyway. Been running sintered over winter on a cross bike and bar the odd squeal, they’ve been great for me.

Not as powerful as mountain bike hydraulic discs, but more than enough for a cross bike ime. If you’re expecting instant lock-up with one finger braking, I think you’re going to be disappointed, but I find them consistent and decently strong. Before I fitted the compressionless cable outer I was a little underwhelmed though and that’s what I’d look at first.

Are you very heavy?

I’m about 75kgs kitted up so not massively heavy, I’m using uberbike semi-metallic pads (what does that actually mean? The description suggests organic) and KCNC rotors, one thing is I’m using a 140 rotor on the rear as that is all I can fit in my frame

Edit: I think the cleaning caliper out with gt85 may be a good shout, the return springs are a bit iffy

Seconding decent compressionless outers. Makes a massive difference to Spyres.

Also, just a hunch: get some new pads and give your rotors and callipers a damn good clean with isopropanol or disc brake cleaner, but definitely not with GT85… 😉

Yep, I’ve cleaned rotors and pads with isopropanol to no avail, then sanded them a bit and recleaned with alcohol for a bit of an improvement. Closer inspection shows the return springs in the calipers aren’t returning well, meaning I’m not using the entire stroke of the caliper, that’s what I meant by cleaning with GT85

I think there are bearings inside.
They get crap in and don’t return fully.
Got rid of mine because of this.
Think there is a thread on here with someone stripping a set down.
Might be the best option?
Max

Which is the most worthy upgrade?

Outers, almost certainly. I’m not sure how good yours are, but when I first cabled up my Spyres with stuff that just happened to be in my spares pile, the rear brake (which runs a full outer) was almost completely ineffective: it wouldn’t even lock the wheel without my weight on the bike.

Initially I suspected pad contamination, but no. Bought some Jagwire Racer cables and, aha, brakes!

Braking from the drops is probably your best bet.

I don’t rate those levers for any brakes from the hoods tbh.

My Spyres are just fine for road riding; with Campag levers.

Instead of clamping the cable “correctly” try clamping it “incorrectly” – might make a difference in terms of feel (for better or for worse I don’t know)

I’ve got them on my Pashley road bike, and they are a bit pants for me.

My old road bike (Colnago Arte, sold about 5 years ago) with Ultegra rim brakes was much better IMO.

I’m using Campag Levers, and compassionless cables. I do have the stock pads in, so may be worth trying some better ones… I’ll check the cable position at the calliper too.

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/psa-trp-spyre-rebuild-guide

Thanks David, I’ll give that a go. I always brake in the hoods by the way, riding proper mtb trails on a 33mm tyred crosser requires as much control as possible!

Anyone used Transfil Black Snake cables? Or if going Jagwire is it the racer, pro or elite to go for? prices aren’t far off each other.

Just reluctant now to take my brand newly fitted bar tape off the bars to replace the cable!

Anyone used Transfil Black Snake cables? Or if going Jagwire is it the racer, pro or elite to go for? prices aren’t far off each other.

Think I’ve got the jagwire on mine; don’t know if it’s any better than anything else, since it’s all I’ve ever used.

Another tip; make sure the ends of the outers are dead square; use a file on them if you have to. And use metal end stops.

Campag Levers, and compassionless cables

They sound really unforgiving…

Yep, my cables are proper hard-nosed bastards! They give me no sympathy when I fall off at all. 🙁

That’s why I stick to hydraulics, I find they have more feel practically and emotionally.