Are the supplied rotors specifically for resin pads ie would they be ruined if you ran sintered?

The stock pads seem to wear heavily every ride – ie to the point of having to wind in the adjuster followng every big descent. Also spongey as. (Jagwire ‘compression-less’ nothwithstanding)

What do you use?

I threw the standard pads straight in the spares and fitted discobrakes sintered all good so far

Freeza rotors and ground Shimano 785 sintered pads.

Cheapo eBay avid copy rotors and Fibrax organic pads, good enough to stop me on the 3 Peaks

I’ve heard this before:

ultracrepidarian – Member
Freeza rotors and ground Shimano 785 sintered pads.

What/where do you grind down? Edges of the backing plates? And how much?

(Got 785s on both road bikes and just building up winter SS with spyres)

A

Yup, about half a mm per edge.

Cool – will give that a go. Got some spares in the garage.

A

More info here
https://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/trp-spyre-meh-38373.html

Cool – thanks.

I take it you’ve done this with non-finned pads?

A

i replaced mine with standard deore pads and icetech rotors works great

More info here

Thanks for that^ It pretty much tallies with my experience.

I found the OE TRP pads pretty poor on the stock 160mm front disc. Sintered pads (Nukeproof IIRC) worked better, but honked like a donkey all the time. Shimano organic pads were OK, Swisstop green the best. Even so, IME, the brakes weren’t very good. Initial bite was OK, but the ultimate power wasn’t there – I could be squeezing the lever (4700) until my knuckles were white, but not stopping any quicker (lever feel was OK).

I changed to an ugly, old style Deore 180mm disc on the front (to match the track width of the pads) and it is so much better – for the first time I feel that the brake generates enough power, and have stopped looking wistfully at hydraulics (this is using Shimano organic pads). I can get the brake to honk by using a certain pressure on the lever, but it’s not too hard to avoid this in day to day use.

The filing thing means that I should be able to use a nicer, lighter 180mm SLX disc that I have – thanks 🙂

The 140mm disc / OE pads have been fine on the rear.

I take it you’ve done this with non-finned pads?

Yes, Shimano g40s pads. Just replaced these with Uber matrix pads, which have required more fettling as the pad material isn’t as accurately located on the backing plate. Will be interesting to see how they compare to the Shimano pads.

Whats the biggest rotor you could use with Spyres? and what bracket? I am on a Spesh Diverge

I think Specialized say 160, but I’ve got a 180 on mine. Normal MTB caliper spacers work.