Ever so slight hijack here (curiosity got the better of me), but seeing as we’re discussing SS, why not vertical dropouts and an old rear mech/ pukka chain tensioner?

Because it looks rubbish. The whole point of SS is that it looks neat and tidy! I’ve never had any issues with a proper internal cam QR (think shimano) with any of the track end frames I’ve had, maybe I just don’t put out enough watts!

Similar experiences for me. Had 4 EBBs so far on Singulars and Jones and all been hassle-free, no creaks ever.
Sliding drop-outs on the Ritchey just seem a clumsy approach, probably my technique but I find them a pain trying to get the right chain tension.

Forward-facing drop outs work pretty well for me if the skewers are tightly clamped or bolted.

I’ve not had any problems with the EBB on my Sanderson Soloist. Easy to adjust if you’ve got a decent pin spanner (and the Sanderson tool), and it keeps the rear end looking really tidy.

I’ve not had any problems with the EBB on my Sanderson Soloist

Don’t think they make it any more unfortunately..

Perfect chain tension is overrated.

Agreed! I’ve had a slagging for a droopy chain. stays on, though, does everything I want it to and nothing I don’t.

2 x EBB, 2 x Salsa Alternator swinging drop outs & 2 x Track ends frames in use and archived (for now 😉 ).

I dont have an issue with any of them – and really could not say which I prefer. Its not the main deciding factor when choosing a frame that can be singlespeeded, other factors are more important.

The Alternators and trackends are good though when running different wheel sizes eg 29plus and Fat on my fat bike.

Thanks for the reply, ‘everyone’

That question had been dancing in my head for a good few years!

With any system that adjusts at the rear end, there’s the potential to misalign the rear end.

And lose rigidity / or add weight?

It might misalign the rear end, but i’m sure getting it right ‘by eye’ is just fine. Your bike doesn’t go crabbing off into the bushes if it’s not quite right.