It is possible to stick very close to the walking route, much more so than some of the routes guided parties take.
The single best tip though is to have look at the map and where possible take alternatives to the single track climbs that the walking route takes. Very often there will be a much more rideable double track ski road alternative.
There are advantages and disadvantages to both clock and anticlock. We went clockwise which has the benefit of being the opposite way to most walkers so they can see you coming and get out the way 😉 It also gave us some of the best descents ever but I can’t speak for the opposite way.
Oh and Bovine is a bastard but unless anyone knows better you might as well suck it up and do it.