Viewing 40 posts - 41 through 80 (of 88 total)
  • To ride with mudguards or without mudguards?
  • IHN
    Full Member

    don’t get on our case just because we can deal with mud.

    Don’t get on ours just because we don’t have to 🙂

    D0NK
    Full Member

    Full mudguards mean I can ride to work offroad and not look like the swamp thing when I walk into work. Not much good for proper riding tho, so I use crudguards, muckynuts and neoguards, keeps the worst off you.

    DezB SKS p50s with the plastic bits on the bolt points don’t rattle for me but then again they are new, may start rattling after a few thousand miles dunno. Pretty sure they won’t last more than a year or two offroad, have broken some guards after a few years of road riding but I’ll be happy with a year out of a set.

    MostlyBalanced
    Free Member

    @PeterPoddy – being wet, muddy and gritty is only uncomfortable and cold if you don’t have the right gear

    Covering that expensive gear in abrasive cack is a very good way to shorten it’s useful life.

    Also, leaving trail of cack in the pub is a no no.

    brack
    Free Member

    +1 DONK

    Quite simply my offroad daily commute would not be sustainable without mudguards.

    Walking crap into my workplace is neither fun or fair!

    D0NK
    Full Member

    the only downside to decent guards is that they look naff*

    erm we’re grown men riding bikes in the mud, we’re never going to look good are we? And most can be removed quickly when if the sun shines

    *oh alright they add weight aswell but so does mud

    jonba
    Free Member

    So we’ve done people not waving and now mudguards in 3 days. Helmets next? Planes on a conveyor belt? Picolax?

    D0NK
    Full Member

    it’s cyclists riding 2 abreast next, then helmets

    BadlyWiredDog
    Full Member

    I never wave at people with mudguards – they’re destroying the image of the sport. Plus I’m usually too busy wiping grit out of my eyes to see them anyway… As for surly people with mudguards doing the Rapha Festive 500, just don’t get me started. Back in my day people had to earn the right to use mudguards, you didn’t just go out and buy a set of the latest carbon fibre mud-stopper extremes just like that, it took years of riding though endless gloop and shit before you could justify even a humble Crud Catcher let along full guards. And don’t get me started on fat middle class knobs riding two-abreast hardtails with mudguards and really bright rear lights and more than 80mm of travel up front. Etc… 😐

    Nobby
    Full Member

    What tyres for mudguard optimisation?

    TiRed
    Full Member

    Full SKS on the fixed commuter. Barely visible on the bike, no rattles, no pfaff. No guards on the road bike, but will get some SKS raceguard longs for group rides on the winter trainer when it arrives. Never had anything for off road, I ride a rigid SS and it’s not been an issue. Sons ride with either crud guard or SKS on the rear, and I didn’t notice much flapping.

    On the road, in a group, mudguards should be compulsory. Off road, I don’t really care.

    Hopester
    Free Member

    Marsh Guard (similar to muckynutz but a bit thicker on the full bounce to stop the mud in the eyes (cant ride in glasses)

    SKS raceguards are just about to go on the road bike.

    rippa8
    Free Member

    Without coz im macho!!!

    zippykona
    Full Member

    If you don’t need mudguards you are probably Wendy Biking.

    jam-bo
    Full Member

    Crudcatcher/neoguard on the front of both bikes all year round.

    Cut off Army goretex shorts in the winter for the rear.

    Yet to see a good robust solution for a rear mud guard on a full suspension bike.

    rocketman
    Free Member

    I think if I commuted or had to drive to a ride I would use mudguards but as it is I ride out of my house and down a lane for a mile to the start of my local loop. Coming back I strip off in the lean-to so I’m never in contact with anything ‘clean’

    I’m not usually concerned about the looks but for me mudguards cross the line esp on a FS. I’ve used them on my hack bike and it looks like a 1950s bobber Harley. Worst combo I’ve seen so far was Mr & Mrs Matching Spesh Rockhopper c/w white Crudcatchers front and rear 😯

    #atleasttheyrehavingago
    #thetrailsareforeveryoneeh

    martinhurton
    Free Member

    I’ve only ever had a front crud catcher but recently I have been considering a rear guard. Trouble is finding one that would fit nicely and allow me to drop the saddle. I can’t find one that has a clamp/angle that would fit my frame so it would have to go on the seat tube. Then I know I’ll be clobbering it everytime I get on and off the bike etc.

    colournoise
    Full Member

    Don’t mind a bit of mud, but still run minimal guards to keep the very worst off. Ass Saver on the back and either a Bender Fender (BFe) or Crudcatcher (Mr Hyde) on the front. Tend to leave the front stuff on all year round TBH.

    leftyboy
    Free Member

    SKS on SS road bike (commuter)

    MuckyNutz on front, Crud RaceGuard on rear of HT. like my rear light to be visible not just a soft glow through the mud!

    crocodilian
    Free Member

    I think when I started riding MTBs it was part of the fun and attraction to get covered in mud and I don’t think that’s changed. I think I’m admitting to being a 33 year old man with the mind of a 12 year old’s but never mind! So I’ve never sought out mudguards or cared too much about cack getting all over the place.
    Bikes and various moving bike parts are so well built these days that unless you’re submerging the whole bike into a swamp for a while then getting a smattering of clart on a regular basis doesn’t make a whole heap of difference to longevity of components.
    As others have said: whatever, who cares, as long as you’re having fun.

    In summary: I like getting covered in mud, I think it’s part of the attraction, for me. Plus, I think ‘guards ruin the aesthetic of the bike – all those nicely designed lines ruined by some plastic crap – and if I’m honest, the look of the bike can be almost as big a factor as the function and I like a good looking bike.

    drookitmunter
    Free Member

    They’re not compatible with any fun riding – like DH or jumping so no. Just wear waterproofs instead. I use them on the road bike though.

    DoctorRad
    Free Member

    I’ve never understood wanting to go out and get muddy: to me, muddy means wet means cold. It also means parts are going to wear out more quickly and they are expensive enough as it is…

    Bikes and various moving bike parts are so well built these days that unless you’re submerging the whole bike into a swamp for a while then getting a smattering of clart on a regular basis doesn’t make a whole heap of difference to longevity of components

    This may (or may not) be true in those parts of the country with clay soils, but in places where it’s more sandy or gritty, you have got to be kidding. You end up running the whole drivetrain and suspension system in what is effectively lapping compound, which will kill it very quickly indeed.

    Haze
    Full Member

    Tried to put the Cruds on my road bike the other day, thwarted by a combination of very tight clearances & too much coffee.

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    It also means parts are going to wear out more quickly and they are expensive enough as it is…

    Most of these parts are not protected by mud guards, it’s just the fairy on top of the tree 😉

    grum
    Free Member

    Full guards on my road/cross bike, just a Fender Bender on my mountain bike (which works amazingly well). Rear mudguards on a mountain bike are a PITA and look crap.

    And for me the bike looking crap isn’t about me looking cool – I’m fully aware I don’t look cool, but I still like my bike to. I don’t care if that makes me a tart.

    jameso
    Full Member

    I think if you ride far enough in the wet on or off-road yet aren’t paid to race, you’ll use guards.

    stAn-BadBrainsMBC
    Free Member

    Riding without a rear guard is for loners.
    Nowt worse than following someone in the wet without guards.

    Off road I’d go for rear guard, crud catcher and one of those you fit on the forks to stop spray into face. As for the ‘they don’t fit with dropper posts ‘ etc. Can someone please explain why you would need a dropper post if your bike fits you correctly ? Been riding mountain bikes for over 25 years and think I’ve only felt the need to lower my seatpost once (descending Rangers path, Snowdon)

    On the commute its full SKS on the touring bike, keeps me and the bike clean and a lot drier than without – which is important as my commute involves a 35 min train journey in the middle, and I sometimes cycle to meetings etc.

    It’s also harder to spot/avoid dog sh## in the wet and gloop. It might just be me, but I think you look a bigger t#t with poop on your clothes/face than guards on your bike.

    jam-bo
    Full Member

    Can someone please explain why you would need a dropper post if your bike fits you correctly ? Been riding mountain bikes for over 25 years and think I’ve only felt the need to lower my seatpost once (descending Rangers path, Snowdon)

    You missed it. That was last week. Keep on track…

    D0NK
    Full Member

    You missed it. That was last week. Keep on track…

    beat me to it 🙂

    DoctorRad
    Free Member

    Can someone please explain why you would need a dropper post if your bike fits you correctly?

    *** Sound of can of worms opening ***

    I had exactly the same question until I did the Great Rock TP skills course in France last year on my Inbred. Without a dropper post, I either had to take the ‘Grand Old Duke of York’ approach (neither up nor down) or I couldn’t descend properly.

    The Duke of York approach was fine for descending but meant I had knees too close to my ears for the pedally stuff. And believe me, you don’t want to leave your saddle all the way up and then be hanging off the back of it for those kinds of descents. The ones I rode weren’t really that bad in comparison with what the region has to offer.

    Perhaps it’s just down to the gnarliness of the terrain, how much up / level stuff there is on the ride, and how fast you want to descend?

    DoctorRad
    Free Member

    You missed it. That was last week. Keep on track…

    Link to thread please?

    shedfull
    Free Member

    I practise ARSE – All the Right Stuff for the Environment. Where’s the fun in having a face full of mud when a few grammes of front mudguard (I run removable SKS Shockblades) would make a wet trail so much more enjoyable? Likewise, why lug a redundant mudguard up a hill on a dry day?

    Isn’t it all about balancing excess weight and ruining the “clean lines of your bike” with staying out longer and having more fun because water isn’t spraying up off your wheel and flowing like a river off your back, into your already soaking shorts?

    grum
    Free Member

    Can someone please explain why you would need a dropper post if your bike fits you correctly ? Been riding mountain bikes for over 25 years and think I’ve only felt the need to lower my seatpost once (descending Rangers path, Snowdon)

    It’s because we’re better at mountain biking than you. 😉

    drookitmunter
    Free Member

    Can someone please explain why you would need a dropper post if your bike fits you correctly ?

    You’re probably riding boring stuff. Come to Inners – brutal climbs with steep descents. I’d love to see you ride Prospacker with your seat up…

    D0NK
    Full Member

    I’d love to see you ride Prospacker with your seat up…

    careful, I’ve seen some very good riders rip down scary stuff with their saddles at full height. Some riders are droppers some are not, massively varied levels of ability in both camps.

    buzz-lightyear
    Free Member

    * I made a home-brew mucknuts like thingy on the fork arch, out of an old rear mudguard. It needs a re-design to improve it, but it stops most of the spray that would hit my face; it doesn’t flap about as the fork boings like an RRP or a “beef curtain”

    * A standard crud guard on the down tube reduces the spray on my legs and chest. It does nothing for my feet sadly

    * Waterproof/Splashproof shorts help a hell of a lot with comfort in the botty area

    * Really good eyewear is the ultimate defence of vision

    I can’t be doing with a rear mud guard: It flaps up and down and side to side, gets in the way, spins around and inevitably snaps.

    bratty
    Full Member

    On this topic, what mudguards for a cross bike? I have a steel cross bike that is basically a Kaffenback with plenty of clearance, and I run 32mm rubber of it. I would like to run something like SKS P-series guards. I am in a fairly gritty/sandy area and am not sure they would actually clog, but would they. Also, which width of guard is best for 32mm tyres?

    D0NK
    Full Member

    bratty I mentioned earlier, I use sks chromoplastic p50 on my cx, 35mm conti tyres, clearance is a little slim on the front under the fork crown but rear is ok, not had any trouble so far but then I’m commuting on a reasonable route, not a huge amount of mud, dunno what they are like in really sticky mud.

    emac65
    Free Member

    I choose not to,because they never stay straight or break & I don’t like the look of them…..Usually find people who don’t ride very often use them as they’re not used to getting wet’n dirty for hours on end on a regular basis….

    jameso
    Full Member

    ^ If you think being cold and wet is something you get used to, you’re not getting cold and wet enough for long enough : )

    emac65
    Free Member

    Really,used to work outside all year long,got used to that too…

    Have done trips to wales in winter doing 50+milers & have done several “tons” on the road in wet winters too,all without guards…perhaps you’re just not cut out for this outdoor stuff….

    PS used to sail all through the winter as a kid as well……….

Viewing 40 posts - 41 through 80 (of 88 total)

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