Went to route my Dropper through the frame yesterday.. it has an exit and start hole pre-done. But doesn’t seem to be sleeved.

No matter how many time I tried it, bending one way, waggling the other I couldn’t get anything at the other end… Even trying from the other end…. still no good….

Whats the secret ?

Cotton & a vacuum cleaner

no idea what the secret is, but ticking theread as Im sure I will need to know one day soon.

EDIT: How about feeding cotton into the first hole and putting the hoover nozzle against the other end 😉

Beaten by the Dog! Damn.

Thin garden wire 😀

WTF…. really ? it actually sounds like a not completely daft idea… but I’d never ever have thought of that !

Invoice will be in the post shortly

Shine a light in, can you see it?

On my Air9 Carbon I just rammed the cable out through really hard in order to break off all the sticky out bits of carbon inside the chainstay. Worked fine for me, but took about 4 hours to route the rear derailleur cable. Hope it stays good for a long time as I have to take the BB and EBB out to replace the cable. Stupid bike.

Park have a new kit for internal routing that looks pretty natty if it actually works !

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bS_lrnnCiAw&feature=player_embedded[/video]

I found dental floss and the hoover worked even better than cotton.

I’ve used on of those Park kits, bloody ace, turns it into 2 minute job.

Magnet doesn’t mess with the bike’s paint job or finish when you scrape it along?

Looks cool. Not for steel frames presumably.

“Hope it stays good for a long time as I have to take the BB and EBB out to replace the cable. Stupid bike. “

Replacing is easy.

take old inner out
thread in new inner
take old outer off
thread on new outer.

rOcKeTdOg – you deserve a life time supply of cookies for that idea.

Magnet doesn’t mess with the bike’s paint job or finish when you scrape it along?

It’s smooth with rounded corners so it certainly shouldn’t, it’s almost as if somebody thought about the design *Shock horror*

I can see it not working with steel, but in fairness not many steel frames use internal routing.

Tried the Park dohicky.Any frame where the hole were big enough for the connectors to go through it was just quicker to do it with wire.
It did take me 6 hours to cable a Cannondale slice RS once

My new bike arrives this week and I plan to remove the front mech and go 1x.

Am I right in thinking that if there is a cable already in there then its a relatively easy job to replace? An if thats the case, am I best leaving the existing cable in there incase I ever plan going back to a double (obviously I’d be triming it down so it only just pretrudes at both ends

Put a loop through to catch the wire, as it passes pull loop, voila.
Hoover sounds better, although as it’s STW only a Miele will work.

No, pull it out and plug the holes. It’s not that difficult to thread a cable.

I bought a metre of 3.5mm CUNIFER (Copper/nickel/iron) pipe as used in Citroen hydraulic systems; that threads through OK. Also 6mm copper brake pipe works but it’s a bit thick.

Usually you can just push the cable down then fish the end out with an old spoke.