Somehow, despite careful use of a torque wrench, I’ve managed to thread a couple of the rotor bolts on my Hope XC rear hub (wanders off to the corner and hangs his head in shame).

Any suggestions to sort this… Without buying a new hub, as finances won’t stretch to this.

I had thought that I could careful drill the bolt holes out to the other side and fix bolts and nuts.. Not pretty but would it work? Any other suggestions?

Probably a daft answer, but how about asking hope ?

Helicoil should fix it, or even just a longer bolt to reach the last bit of thread

Tbh if it is only a couple of bolts and its on the back its not a big issue of unless you are a larger chap or ride gnarr to the max

Can you get a nut onto the back side of the hole? Some hubs you can, some have blind holes so you can’t.

3 bolts is normal in weight saving world 😉

You’ve “stripped” the thread not threaded it 🙄

Dibbs – Member

You’ve “stripped” the thread not threaded it

I’m sure correcting his terminology used was his main concern today, nice one!

OK fit a helicoil then. 🙄

But if the OP can’t get the terminology correct or tighten a setscrew using a torque wrench, what chance does he stand fitting a helicoil?

As Dibbs suggests, find someone with experience of fitting helicoils and get them to do it.

You guys suggesting helicoil – you really think theres enough meat round an xc disk tap to helicoil it ?

thanks for the terminology correction… distracted by 3 excited children! I’ll try the longer bolts suggestion, and failing that find someone to fit helicoils for me :-p
Ta

I just had a look at my hub and your right, the bosses for the bolt holes aren’t very big.
I’d still helicoil it as the neatest option, but putting a nut behind would be easier. There’s room for it, although it would be best to file the face of the nut to a slight angle to match the hub.

If you’re going to Helicoil it why not just enlarge the hole to M6? You’ll need to enlarge the holes on the rotor to match. Shouldn’t adversely weaken the set up.

Possibly try a tap and die set to repair the thread if its not too bad. I have recovered an ISCG tab by this method. Useful thing to have even if it doesn’t work circa £20 for a Clarkes one.

I’d put a nut behind it, and I would file the back of the boss square rather than the nut. In my view that’s better than weakening the sides of the boss by fitting a helicoil or oversize bolt. For really neat, I’d put a bit of epoxy where the nut sits (not on the thread!) to make it captive.