Are they usually expected to be accurate? Or are they purely decoration? Since they’re only there to make the act of bar chopping a more accurate process, you’d expect them to be correctly positioned would you not?

Now it’s not something I’ve ever though about before but I’ve just got a bar that’s 800mm wide and I thought about trimming it. Pipe cutter in hand, I noticed that the cutting guides are very visibly on the piss.

I’ve got alternating small and large dashes to indicate 5 and 10mm increments. The trouble is the first 10mm mark is 9mm from the edge on the right hand side and a whopping 13mm on the left.

I know if I’d just gone ahead and sliced I never would have noticed that I was riding lopsided bars. And I’m not incapable of measuring my own cuts. I just think I might have bought a shonky bar. The stem is the same brand and was really hard to bolt together with two of the holes not quite lining up! They look cool but I’ve come over all disenchanted by my cool new bike.

The world is a mess.

Have you measured the distance from the centre. Maybe their already lopsided…

Or maybe the marks for the stem in the centre aren’t central either?

Dunno if I’ve a preference for upsweep but I’ve often had the logo’s on some bars pointing right down at the floor, even on raisers where it’s obvious what the right angle is!

But how can you tell where the centre is 😯

Idle curiosity, what brand are they?

scotroutes – Member
jam bo » Have you measured the distance from the centre. Maybe their already lopsided…

But how can you tell where the centre is
POSTED 9 MINUTES AGO # REPORT-POST

#SmartAr$e mode… half the distance from one end to the other…. 😈 😉

The bar itself is bang on. Just wonky graphics I think. And they are graphics, not laser etching like my Renthal Fatbars. Maybe that’s the problem. I remember how tricky it was lining up those waterslide Air Fix stickers. Maybe some poor kid in the far east had the same issues.

The bar in question is a Joystick 8-bit alloy.

I’ve also got this stem,

Those two bolts in the top were an absolute pig to fit. I had to really lean on that front cap to get it into position. The girth of the bar just pulled the face plate too far forwards.

I have the same stem and it was very easy to fit the clamp. But I have On One bars, so they may well not be quite the right diameter.

Apart from the obvious, what are your general thoughts on the Joystick bars?

Those two bolts in the top were an absolute pig to fit. I had to really lean on that front cap to get it into position. The girth of the bar just pulled the face plate too far forwards.

That would worry me, something about the bolts being in shear stress rather than tension.
As you can tell I’m a qualified [software] engineer.

Am glad this thread came up, have just ordered a cutting guide (have never been able to saw a straight line) and would have just used the pre-printed guide on the bars – am going to have to measure them now to make sure ( nukeproof warheads)

Cut one side, use that cut off to mark he much to cut off other side.

Apart from the obvious, what are your general thoughts on the Joystick bars?

Haven’t ridden them yet, I need some other parts first. They look the part. I like the little space invader dude in the middle that peeks out through the stem. I’m going to ride them at 800mm and see how they feel but it’s a small jump bike so I’ll probably shorten them.

Am glad this thread came up, have just ordered a cutting guide (have never been able to saw a straight line)

I use one of these,

Even a hacksaw guide can sit at a funny angle. We’ve got one at work that looks right and clamps up nice and tight but puts a slight angle on things.

You can’t go wrong with a pipe cutter. You can get them perfectly in position and they give you a perfect finish.