Beers
– Hanging Bat seconded, great place to try different beers. Don’t be afraid to ask for recommendations from staff if you’re not familiar with the beers. Also excellent gins
– Bow Bar on West Bow. More traditional real ale pub
– Brewdog on Cowgate. Pub of the Aberdeenshire brewer, good own beers and decent guest ales
– Blue Blazer on Spittal Street. Another Old Man pub with well kept beers
– Ecco Vino on Cockburn Street is prob best wine bar in town and does good light bites – risottos, platters etc.
Food
– for Sat night it’s probably too late for anywhere “famous”. Try newly opened Blackfriars Restaurant (modern scottish), La Garrigue on Jeffery St for regional French, Centotre on George St for Italian; all fairly fancy places. Or pick up The List magazine, the current one has their food and drink guide.
Coffee – Lovecrumbs at the Westport is probably best bakeshop in town; Wellington on corner of George St/ Frederick St is also very good; fine scones as well
Breakfast/ Brunch – try Urban Angel, they have one on Hannover St and one at top of New Town/ Leith Walk end of town.
Walks – Calton Hill is a great viewpoint (but has a wee bit of a reputation at dusk/ night). Arthurs Seat and Salisbury Crags also good.
Tourist stuff – wouldn’t bother with the Castle really unless you’re into military history. Museums are all good, Portrait Gallery, NMS and the art gallery on the Mound. Stockbridge and Botanics worth a visit too, good pubs (Stockbridge Tap) and coffee (Ronde) and you can wander along Water of Leith from near Murrayfield.