OK then

LEDs will be arranged as 3 sets of 4 running off a 14.4V Li ion pack.

You’ll be visible from space.
😀

You’ll be visible from space.

I’ll be the first cyclist to be convicted of endangering aircraft. Either that or starting grass fires 😆

I cannot wait for the beam shots

That is so ridiculous as to be absurd

I cannot wait for the beam shots

Sadly my camera only does 1 sec max exposure so probably wouldn’t look as bright as the photo on the previous page. I’ll do a comparison though using my old Lumi halide system.

That is so ridiculous as to be absurd

Well the 12000 Lm would only last an hour (it is 100 Watts after all). I reality most of my ride will be 3000 Lm for 4 hours with a wide oval shaped beam plus a semi-spot.

Can anyone recommend a source for wire, to connect up battery packs both internally and out to the light? I’d normal have a poke around a Maplin or something but there are a real dearth of hobbyist electronics shops around here, so it’s pot luck on sizes and the like.

CPC normally have everything. They are owned by Farnell who in turn stock everything imaginable. Although Farnell are trade orientated, it is quite easy to order on a credit card. Same for RS components.

What the hell is SBZ – Daily Mail meant to mean?

12000lm is absurd, but I can see why someone would do it just for a laugh.

I’ve a bastid, which is nice, but I could quite happily have 2 on the bars (could do with a 2nd one with more flood and less spot but with the same beam angle, and one on my lid with slightly less of the peripheral beam.

Hope Vision 4 on the bars and Hope Vision 2 on my helmet and I was verbally abused by white van man on my commute home last night (might have been in jest but I wasn’t hanging around to find out). Well, I thought, had the desired effect then, he saw me coming !!

How many Lumens do you need to scare away the “undergrowth Demons”.

They are there you know!

well at 4000 lumens you can set fire to things!

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TsV3-IvS8UA[/video]

Problem is – if you are out with medium strength lights – then when someone with a 2000-3000 lumen rig comes up behind you – you are suddenly find yourself cycling into an dark area in the relative eclipse you have made. 😥

I think there should be some restraint shown.

I am with MRMO

i think the answer is why you ride at night. Do you ride at night to ride at night in which case a little less light isn’t an issue. Or do you ride at night because you have no choice, your ride at night to train during the winter, in which case more light means you can go faster.

…with 3-kids I do most of my riding at night, over the hills and in the woods locally, therefore good (bright) lights equals more speed equals more fun!

I recently changed my c1800 lumen HID for an 1700lumen (approx) Troute Liberator 3.0. I have more than enough light now for my purposes and through the Liberator now have a controllable light with up to 12-hrs from the battery (my HID would give 2.5hrs tops).

I like Troute’s new prototype, pushing boundaries – but I doubt I’ll personally ever look for more than 2000 lumens – my focus is on battery life and durability.

I would love a light to be that bright. If it has a few modes, say 1-5 in intensity then it’s up to the rider to select the appropriate brightness.

That sort of light would be awesome for fast riding at night and also for lighting up areas to session bit of the trail.

Good work, show us the results!

I’ve got a 900 lumen toro2, its more than enough for night riding. I prefer a balance between size of unit/light than all out power.

Sadly my camera only does 1 sec max exposure so probably wouldn’t look as bright as the photo on the previous page.

Those settings were based on the ‘standard’ for beam shots (from mtbr I think), which is why they’re a bit ‘odd’. If your camera only does 1 sec exposure use ISO 600 and f4 (or ISO 800 and f3.2 would be near enough) and you’ll get the equivalent.