Good. Best 12 hours in the saddle I've ever had. After the billion people came down buttertubs I went up / down (the pished group of 6/7 people with stripey tops and onions around their necks with the cow bells were ace!) then across the moors and down into kirkby stephen. Best atmosphere / chats to random people / views / countryside / descents ever.
Was also nice to give someone, who was looking confusingly at his broken chain and his chain tool, my second spare 10spd wipperman link and get him on his way quickly (and by chance bumping into him again at the bottom of buttertubs).
Bad. Overtakers. Never had so many (very considerate!) overtakes into blind bends before, how noone had a head on crash I've no idea. And of course the spanner in the 4x4 who just *had* to overtake me (I was nudging 50 as it was) half on the road / half on the grass verge on the descent into kirkby stephen. Wasn't that bad though in fairness.
Ugly. Deep-fried wensleydale in Hawes (the fish and chips were superb though). Not convinced TBH *awaits flaming by both wensleydale purists and lovers of deep-fried wensleydale*