nah – you only want an <inch under your slabs for bedding. Whacker your hardcore down first and then whacker the sand down too.

so @ 25mm = 0.14 m3 @ 1.6t/m3 = 220Kg or 10 bags.

PSA sharp sand at B&Q 20kg bag £1.34, I just got some for a job yesterday

Excellent stuff, its starting to look a lot more feasible now and will hopefully be able to make a start on it over the weekend.

Just a quick thought on paving slabs, do they need to be a particular thickness/load bearing or will any paving slab do?

My next shed will be on stilts.

I’ll be pinching a bit of woodland at the back of the garden and building a shed approx 2.5mtrs x 4mtrs. The ground at the back slopes away, so rather than build it up, I’m going to dig 6 holes – one at each corner and one in the middle of each of the longest edges. I’ll set some 4×4, or 6×6 timbers into these holes of varying lengths (with tops all level) and concrete in. Onto these I’ll build a frame & floor and go upwards from there.

This will have 2 advantages for me – 1) not having to build the ground up and 2) I can keep the corner on the highest point of the ground, just above ground level, so the whole frame will be floating, thus helping keep damp away.

I prefer to use class 1 scalping’s than sand it binds better and is less lightly to shift also once its bound by the concrete its very very strong (Its the stuff they use under roads) meaning you can use less concrete! See the pic (child labour is optional :wink:)
Note i used wood shuttering at the rear against the (crooked) fence as that’s OK to leave or cut out at a later date, I put down about 4-5inches of concrete on this base,and a tip is see the wooden stakes in the scalping’s they are level with the sides of the shuttering they act as a guide to help you judge by eye and with a level if you have any low spots in the middle when leveling the scalping and pouring in the concrete! If you do use scalping’s just make sure they are well whacked down and if using shuttering like I’ve used at the front here remove it when the concrete is still green as it will separate easier and less lightly to chip the base edges ! Good luck dont panic and dont rush 🙂

oooohh we’re doing pics are we? 😉

mine was made froma balance load from the house build so couldnt fill to level and tamp, had to let it fill till the mixer was empty. It’s a little deeper than I was expecting, but at least it didnt break the shuttering 🙂

A pump for a shed base??? 😯
Oh and looking at that “shuttering” stoner you were lucky she didn’t pop!!!

it was touch and go.

“oooh, shouldnt be more than a cube and a half left in there…..”

about 3 and a half cubes later its at my welly tops and Im wonderin’ how to clean it all up if it blows 🙂

Yeah looking at the shutters I was guessing at a good 300mm in there, can’t beat a massively over engineered shed base tho, that ain’t ever going to let you down. Oh and please don’t tell me that there’s two layers of a393 mesh in there 😆

I sank 5 of those concrete fence posts into the ground, smooth side up. Sat them onto small piles of concrete so I could get them all level. Lets me slide the shed out if needed, to get at the fence behind. It was also remarkably easy to do. Certainly quicker than putting up shuttering, mixing, pouring, tamping & all that. Having done plenty of concreting over the years, this approach was a doddle, but does lack the STW Extreme Engineering approach. 🙂

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