Looking for some advice re fitting out….

Fingers crossed I’ll be picking up our SWB T5 panel van this coming weekend. Plan to turn it into a kombi with 1+1+1 rear seats whilst carpeting the interior. I’ll also fit side windows along with a long list of other mods…

A few questions…

1. The van I’m hoping to secure is already ply’d out so if I can confirm it’s been insulated already is it a good idea to just apply the carpet directly to the existing ply? I may have to mod a few of the ply sheets to fit better / be less sharp edged but I think it may make things a little simpler?
2. What do you line the roofs with? Is it carpet backed ply or some kind of carpeted stiff board?
3. Are aftermarket sliding side windows as ‘leaky’ as all the forums seem to suggest?
4. Are ‘openable’ side windows really needed or just a nice to have?
5. Any STW recommended ‘go to’ T5 suppliers…there’s an almost overwhelming number of companies.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks

Roscoe

Take the ply off, due to the thickness of the carpet you may have to take off a few mm so the panel follows the profile of the van.
I used some fake alcantara on the existing roof panels, purchased at a vw show.
If you carry passengers in the back in summer openable window vents will help with ventilation.

1. If it’s just ply lined there’s pretty much zero chance it has any insulation behind already. You need to remove ply, carpet metal work, carpet ply off van and then refit.
Roof just cover the boards already there with carpet or something else of your 2. choice. You’ll need longer fittings to refit.
3. Aftermarket windows are fine it’s the genuine vw ones that leak.
4. If you have people in the back often opening windows make a big difference.
5. Do you mean for van or stuff? Mega van mats are best for lining gear.

What van are you buying/looking at? I buy and sell some transporters as a sideline so might be able to help or offer further advice.

Kiravvans seem to make/sell very good quality stuff. Their windows certainly dont leak in my van.

1. Insulation unlikely. You might be able to use the existing ply, probably not. Most vans get ply lined to protect the bodywork, but if you are carpeting it, the ply only really needs to cover the insulation, you can get away with more metal showing cos your going to carpet it. Anyway, even if they have insulted a bit, some sound deadening is good, so take it out and start again.

2. Mine is 2mm ply on he roof in 2 parts (lwb). You can use the existing roof panels to get a guide shape.

3. Mine has not leaked (kirvans)

4. Opening

5. Kirvans, banwy, just kampers, jacksons, travelvolts

What about the floor?

And the cab lining?

Kiss your wallet goodbye 🙂

It’s turning into the vwt4forum on here

Megavanmats and Harrison Trim are a great source of gear and information. There are lots of companies selling replacement ply panels already carpetted for pretty good prices. eBay is a good place to look. Don’t forget sound deadening, well worth it if your’re taking the panels off anyway. The T4/T5 forum is an excellent source for tips and step by step guides.

OP – if you are down south, this place is good for advice and/or doing the work: http://revampavan.com/ ask for Andy. As others, you might need deep pockets depending on how far you go.

So educate me a bit more…

What’s the difference between the sound deadening material and insulation?

Some of the sound boards I’ve seen like they are firm but playable and come with a sticky back?
What the best insulation…there’s some like above (firm board with sticky back) or the ‘wool’ type?

Is there a product that does both or are they mutually exclusive?

Is the best way forward then to apply:

[*]Sound deadening sticky backed panels to all the inserted areas then…[/*]
[*]Apply ‘wool’ or board insulation on top of that then…[/*]
[*]Carpet all exposed ‘raised’ areas then…[/*]
[*]Cut out and cover 2mm ply in the shape of the ‘inserts’ and screw in place?[/*]

Next set of questions after this is done is about seating! Any sources for 1+1+1 seats at reasonable money or should I sell another kidney?!

Seats (used)- seems plenty on ebay, alot from Poland or Ireland for some reason. Check local gumtree or T5 specialist who might have some. New VW originals fitted will cost £2K +. I just got some 2 + 1 proper VW ones done, good used, but still expensive with the labour, all the floor plates, brackets, seat belts and strengthening bits. Don’t do what I saw some young lad do on a T5, screw on the rails and attach Bongo seats just into the floor ply….
As others say, get on the T4/T5 forum for best advice and stuff for sale. If you haven’t actually bought the panel van yet, might be more economical to find one where someone has already done the work.

insulating it is relatively cheap. Lots of different views on how to do it and usually all you find is how others have done it. Limited evidence of what works best. At the end of the day all youre doing is stopping condensation.

Dodo matts do some 2 in 1 sound deadening/insulation solutions.
General idea seems to use some sound deadening to reduce resonance of panels so you don’t need to cover the van inside fully. Perhaps one piece on every panel. Rest of the insulation will reduce sound passing through. Most of the sound will emanate from wheel arches so pay attention to them.

Then some closed cell foam, some plastic loft insulation or wadding material to trap air. Add some silver stuff and then refit ply.

Phoned Vanguard in Fort Bill (just up the road)…very helpful

So they recommend the best way forward is to apply a foil sticky backed material, then the wool type insulation, then cut ply panels to fit in the space and glue them in place. Once that’s all been done, you then carpet the lot.

Has anyone applied the foil to the wheel arches prior to the carpet…every little helps as they say!

Definitely do the foil or rubber backed stuff to the arches are they are the source of most noise.

So how much ‘stretchy’ Mega stretch do you need to line a SWB T5?

There appears to be a bit of conflict on how much. 10m2 / 12m2 & Vanguard suggest 18m2?

if you are going to fit a rock/roll bed make sure you get a space saver one, the normal variety lose you a good foot or so of floor. i had one from and it was fitted whilst i waited…

JDS Metaltech

the regular one as they did not do a crash tested one at the time, and no question if i was after another I would go to them again. i would buy a regular one again.

sound deadening stuff is bitumen tape, cheap as chips from screwfix. glorified bubblewrap insulation from screwfix is excellent.

flooring by an altro vinyl floor offcut from ebay, it is super tough.

lining carpet, by the best you can afford. some of the cheaper stuff is not as stretchy. the self adhesive stuff is less messy than using rattle cans of adhesive.

windows… depends who you get them from.

How much carpet depends how many joints you’re happy to have.

How much carpet depends how many joints you’re happy to have.

Probably fit out as described above. Would 12m2 be enough for walls and another 6m2 for the roof?

Sorry to explain more fully if you want no joints on a side for example then you need 2 pieces the full size of each side, roof etc one to do the metal first and then another to do the panels. If you don’t mind some visible joints on the metalwork you can do a lot less.

Happy with some joints…life is too short to make it a one piece item.

Just looking for a guide as I don’t want to end up short or with rolls of the stuff left.