I have been thinking about buying an Alfine wheel etc for my Swift but have changed my mind after picking one up ( a wheel that is) recently. For the summer I want to try a 1×9 setup instead. Any advice on chain devices and is there anything else I should be aware of before sourcing the relevant bits and bobs?

bashring and a n-gear jumpstop are my preference.

Bashring and normal front derailleur work ok, and set the tension to max in the lowest gear.

This
n-gear

Thanks… moving slightly away from the OP, what ratio for the chainring? Just stick with a regular 32 tooth?

here is my swift 1×9

short mech as well 32 (full teeth non ramped) + 11-34 cassette but might try 12-36 _ n-gear and cheap fas bashring

I also shunted the chainset towards the centre a bit but swapping BB spacers

I find that just using a bashring doesn't stop it from going off that side. May just be my crap bashring, but now if the chain gets bounced that side, it gets stuck in the gap between the bash and chain ring, even more of a hassle to put back on. Have I just got my bashring set up wrong or is it just too thin?

Currently using a DMR Speedguide as it was free, seems to work ok but a bit of a pain in the arse to set up.

thats definately an incorrectly setup bashring

are there spacers between bashring and spider?

No, got chainring on one side of the spider, then bashring straight on the other side.

here's a pic of it, as you can see there are no spacers and the gap is huge.

Sorry for the thread hijack!

yer tom, on my bash as piced above when the chain is on the ring the plates of the chain are quiet close to the basj ring,no way the cahin could get stuck in between – unlike yours.

the bash i used was a cheap fsa one – think without looking the attachment points are recess a bit to it ends up closer to the ring

So, a bog standard bash ring (to fit an XT chainset) , the n-gear thingy, 32 tooth chainring etc etc. Dim question here.. why a short age rear mech?

why a short age rear mech?

no real need, bit you don't need the capacity of a long/med cage anymore after losing granny and big and the smaller cages better control the chain (chain slap/bounce) plus as an aside it is further from the ground!

you might not need the bash and n-gear – you could see how you get on, but for the cost i think it is worth doing for a bomb proof system

I'm one of those people for whom, if they don't do everything to make something totally foolproof, find it will al go horribly and irrecoverably wrong at the worst possible moment. Bomb proof therefore…is good 🙂

ok in that case get a unramped chainring as well 😀

i got a blackspire one from CRC

rootes1 – Do you run the gear cable fully within an outer? Any chance of a photo of your cabling? (Yes I am a dweeb when it comes to this sort of thing!) 😳

rootes1 – Do you run the gear cable fully within an outer? Any chance of a photo of your cabling? (Yes I am a dweeb when it comes to this sort of thing!)

I have an older 'geared' swift which is why it is orange and not blue and this has cable stops on the frame so i don't need to run full outer.. drop Sam at singular a line, sure he can show you some examples of routing and clips etc.

I have done it with a complete run of outer cabling and it seems to work ok so far. I was impatient so I bought an MRP chain device instead of buying stuff off t'interweb. Not sure I like the look of it but by all accounts it is functional. A few more tweaks and it will be on the road/mud… whatever.

_tom_ – Member

No, got chainring on one side of the spider, then bashring straight on the other side.

here's a pic of it, as you can see there are no spacers and the gap is huge.

Tom.

Is your chainring offset? Try turning it round. It looks to me to be inboard of the mounting tabs.

Before you decide against the Alfine, talk to Steve at Square Wheels.

He can have anything he likes on his bikes, and he sings the praises of the Alfine on his Swift.