Alright, just finished replacing the oil/seals etc in my Fox forks r80. i’ve slid the lowers on but can’t tighten up the nut on the rod (damper side) it just keeps spinning round with the nut! no probems other side though…where am i going wrong?

l’il help! Cheers everyone.

🙂

an you turn the compression damping up or put the lockout on.

try compressing the fork a bit? Coil or air fork?

Ok I had the same problem the other week. I phone Mojo and they where really helpful and sorted my problem out, you have probably damaged the thread on the bottom of the rod and what you need to do is re-thread it with a die-nut M8X1 fine thread, run it down the thread on the rod and for good measure run a tap down the nut also, worked for me. HTH

Not convinced by that, what you had lipseal was probably a very unlucky incident, but that stuff does not strip easily!

I’d expect the damper side to be the pain in the bum, basically what’s happened is you haven’t got the pushrod down far enough to allow it to engage with the bolt. You said it worked fine in the spring side, which will be because of the spring action forcing the pushrod to stay in place as you try and push the lowers on. Essentially the pushrods need to have a very snug fit to stop the lubrication oil coming out the bottom, which can make locating them a bit of a faff.

My advice would be to put the lockout on (If you’ve got it), then try and compress the lowers. The lockout will prevent the pushrod going down and thus force it to engage with the lowers so you can fit the footnut.

If for some reason you don’t have lockout, deflate the air spring or remove the spring if it’s coil and then force the lowers down to bottom the fork out. This should force the pushrod into the lowers properly and allow you to engage the footnut.

Thanks eor your suggestions but the rod’s still spinning like a good un any more for any more?
🙂

I would remove the lowers and start again. The RHS leg has a slotted part to the lower end of the rod and will spin if it doesn’t extend. The best thing is to release the air preload before you do it and compress the fork and hol it there as above. I did mine yesterday and I can confirm above 🙂

http://www.cyclistno1.co.uk/features/maintenance/fox-forks-wiper-seal-service.htm

Its this bit that’s the pain – you need to have the rod a its max. Try pumping the forks with you foot while screwing the nut on and will locate in the slot on the inside of the lower?

The LHS leg nut will spin at a higher enough torque IME 🙂

Push the crush washer on first, clean the threads in the nut and the on the shaft. Clamp the forks upside down thread the nut on as far as it will go without turning the shaft, compress forks and tighten nut up.
Or use an air gun with the torque set as low as possible, but I’m guessing you don’t have one of these.

edit: slotted end on the rod is only on Talas side I think.

You maybe right there Simon but mine stopped moving on my F120’s yesterday when I compressed the fork – perhaps that was friction not a slot then?

You made it sound much more logical than I did 🙁

Not that familiar with the R80, but I’ve had similar issues on other forks.

First thing to try is to pop a 1/4″ drive socket – assuming you have one – in a drill. Often the fast speed of the drill will overcome the friction on the threads.

Second use a hacksaw to cut a slot in the bottom of the rod. Don’t over do, cut just enough to get a small screwdriver in there. Use the slot to hold the rod and then use a spanner on the nut.

This all assumes you have no damage to the threads on the rod or the nut and no rebound/blow off adjuster on that lower leg.

Hth
Marko

The studs can shear fairly easily so take it easy with any air/power tools.

As Loco said just compress the fork – you can let the air out (when upright) which makes compression easier 🙂