and

ha its pith easy to see where it is, but hard to get to as it involves a lot of walking.
pics on crap phone

mothercombe reef is pretty nuts,
i have done one soggy bottom but as i live 5mins from it i never like paying to ride there(not that i would think of riding it at any other time than at races!)
i do do the 24/12 events there though, snail trail racing, 12 hr solo for me this year.

Nice pics – just around the corner from my inlaws place (won't say where it is for fear of giving it away but run on that path and boated and kayaked around that island a few times before!)! Seen it nearly working but not like that – TBH that would be a pretty scary paddle out from the nearby beach!

Cheers for posting those up!

the 2nd photo would've looked ace if i didnt have such a rubbish delay in my phone, it looks pretty flat there but you can see the bow wave the barrel created in front, it was very very big, i'd never seen it work like that either before.

When I saw it almost working, it must have been 6ft. That must be near twice the size. Yep – pretty damn scary.

Have resisted posting for a while but saw this thread being revived so thought I would chip in. Lived in Plymouth between 86-89 and didn't get to surf what I think is the break pictured, missed out when two of my mates surfed it in 87' @ 12-15 ft (apparently but I do believe them as the one in particular under-estimates size). Also spent two years on the NE coast so probably know some of the people you know surf-mat, although it was a long time ago now – 89-91' when I used to surf with the Whitby crew – Brad, Jo, Harry, Lanky (Jonathan Hill) etc. In those days it was very uncrowded – used to regularly surf Cayton on a Friday night on my own b4 driving up to Whitby on the Sat for the weekend plus other breaks 😉 good times!!

That spot is no secret but pretty hard to get to without a ski.

Loads of epic reefs on the south coast, I always used to surf the south coast in preference to going north and fighting the crowds.

Getting fitted for a shiny new snugg summer suit next weekend…

looking out to sea there is another nice break which works with a much smaller wave to the left up the coast, tis best to park in the nt car park at the top and walk to the 1st headland, its right in front of you then.
never crowded and a nice bank/point.

Phillips – I know where you mean. When we stay with the inlaws, I always run the coast path there – I love that area.

Jam – I've swum and kayaked out there from the little bay slightly up the estuary. You could get there okay but it would be pretty damn "gnarly ;-)"

Hitman – uncrowded waves? Please explain your foreign terms…
TBH, the best sessions are when MSW miss a swell (very often) and so the crowds don't turn up. Had Porthtowan utterly firing a number of times during "school days" when the forecast has been lame. A fortnight ago (Monday) was an example – head high barrelling loveliness and hardly anyone out – very rare but very lovely.

Any of you surf(ed) Leven? Had a go last May and utterly loved it. Again it was pretty uncrowded but that was just sheer luck and an early start.

The reefs in South NZ were still my favourite waves alongside Byron Bay.

And at the moment, it's crap down here!

was saturday evening any kop? 3ft@16secs sounded like it should have thrown up some decent waves. couldn't get away though…

Jam – it was just about surfable (I was at a stag do and camping at Watergate!) but not worth driving far for. I'd say 2ft and a bit messy. Fine if you were already there (I was busy drinking too many beers) I guess. Checked it many many times before deciding to leave it!

Hitman – uncrowded waves? Please explain your foreign terms…
TBH, the best sessions are when MSW miss a swell (very often) and so the crowds don't turn up. Had Porthtowan utterly firing a number of times during "school days" when the forecast has been lame. A fortnight ago (Monday) was an example – head high barrelling loveliness and hardly anyone out – very rare but very lovely.

Any of you surf(ed) Leven? Had a go last May and utterly loved it. Again it was pretty uncrowded but that was just sheer luck and an early start.

Well it was very uncrowded back then with me initially surfing many waves on my own in the Scarborough area, before realising that there were a handful of surfers in the area. Back then the suits were not so good and the extreme cold water temp kept everyone but the committed out of the water. When I hooked up with an old college friend, I got to meet the core Whitby crew and pioneers of a certain still semi-secret reef spot which they'd surfed for 9 months on their own. This was only a couple of years before, so when I was there only a few knew it existed and its location – happy days:) The whitby boys really looked after me and I would stay the weekend with them and surf all weekend, plus waves further north, Thurso, Sandside, Melvick, Brimms Ness etc.
As far as Leven is concerned I surfed it back in 87/88 and enjoyed it although there were a few back in the water even then, although no problem getting waves. Surfed many secret & semi-secret spots in Cornwall and Devon back then, as I had time on my hands and would go surfing pretty much every day 🙂

Hitman – I've been surfing "properly" (i.e. not on holiday) since I moved down to Polzeath aged 14 twenty years ago – my first wetsuit was a £40 Gul and was dreadful yet we put up with it then. The Winter was always pretty quiet but even in the Summer it wasn't too bad if you knew where to look. Still some spots that never get busy but all hard work to get to.

Like you I was at school then college then Uni all by surf breaks so basically surfed every day there were waves and went to Swansea Uni for the reefs – and often surfed several times a day in school/uni holidays. Not so easy now but still get in a fair bit!

Never surfed Thurso – I will soon though. It's on my "places to surf before I'm 40" list… Six years left.

Kaikoura was pretty special – three RH points usually with no one else in and snow capped mountains as a backdrop. Spent a month there – loved it.

surf mat, make sure you keep surfing – I stopped for two years due to injury recently and its the worst thing I could have done. Now back in the gym training my shoulder despite needing an op which I now doubt I will ever have (long story!). Setting my sights on a go out in the next 2 weeks but will really return next winter unless a summer trip, probably to Indo comes off…
Scotland is great, I really loved it up there. It was cold although it wasn't close to what the north-east coast is like, and we had really good surf. It gets big up there as well and we were turning up at beaches/reefs and surfing on our own…

What's up with your shoulder? Mine has dislocated around 30 times, several of them when surfing. I've physio'd the hell out of it (was given the choice of that or surgery) and it's now almost 100% okay. I'm still cautious duck diving anything really heavy – can look a bit lame but if I get spun or shaken too much underwater, it's back to square one again.

Just worth checking out all the options.

Had Indo planned for after our Oz/NZ tour but the flipping East Timor war flared up – so came home and drove to the Alps for a month instead (in 2000). A real shame!

ah and i spent a 'dull as dishwater' week in a freezing cold rainy kaikoura, couldn't wait to get out of the place.

Had Indo planned for after our Oz/NZ tour but the flipping East Timor war flared up – so came home and drove to the Alps for a month instead (in 2000). A real shame!

That is a shame – best place I've ever surfed. This will be my 6th trip if I make it out there in the summer and although its changing out there in terms of crowds you can still get it good with only a few out. Went through East Timor in 98' which was a bit hairy (including a guy being pulled off our twin prop plane at gun point by the military just b4 take off) but worth it 🙂

my business partner goes out to indo every year, he rates it as the best place ever but scary at times when the swell is increasing and the reef gets shallower, he's got a few scars from being schooled across the reefs!
too big out there for this kook though!!

for what its worth another one here in cornwall who surfs (also just started kitesurfing for the windy onshore days – awesome entertainment that!). i'm down in west penwith so both coasts close on hand to play with, plus a load of moorland and other varied stuff to ride.

my business partner goes out to indo every year, he rates it as the best place ever but scary at times when the swell is increasing and the reef gets shallower, he's got a few scars from being schooled across the reefs!
too big out there for this kook though!!

Indo teaches you that (almost) everyone has their limits!!

TBH some of the NZ reefs were pretty hardcore and perfect. Still rate Portugal (Ericeira area) VERY highly too – been there twice. And of course SW France gets pretty epic.

We were gutted at the time not being able to go to Indo but TBH, I've scored good waves all over the place without going quite so far. Also got a little one now so long trips are out of the question for a while.

Sliced my arm open on a Gower reef, bust my hand on a Cornwall one, etc – all fun but a few scars (including a big one on my face) to show for it all. Also nearly drowned twice. Definitely been taught my limits a few times!!

Good to see a few others surfers here – and also good that you are all non BSing kooks (the internet seems to be full of them) too! I used to rep for Rip Curl – that was handy for kit even if their wetsuits aren't all that great.

Been an Xcel man for years now.

even if their wetsuits aren't all that great

i'm curious, who do you rate then? i've worn rc suits since the 80's and absolutely love them. fragile on the seams admittedly, but the flex, esp on the chest zip winter suits, is stunning.

Gav – I repped for them when Elastos came out. I got three Ultimates and they were super flexi but simply not warm enough and lasted no time at all. The Billabong Furnace (this is early 2002ish) I had before was far warmer than the 5/3 Ultimate.

I still have a long arm short leg 2mm Elasto which is hanging in there for warm days.

Also know many people with more recent E and F bombs – yes they are pretty warm but loads have had issues. I know a few shop owners who just won't stock them any more.

So it's Xcel all the way for me – and has been for the last 5 years or so. SO warm, flexi and last really well – got a 5/3 Infiniti X Zip and a 3/2 Infiniti X Zip – both are just amazing. As are their boots. I can't see RC getting near them. I like O'Neils but they seem to be made for the ganglier surfer.

Last couple of suits of mine have been Ripcurl Classics. Great for me at the time as I was on quite a small budget. They fit well and I was able to have good long sessions in the water.

However I changed to C-Skins for my last suit and the difference is just immense. Not knocking Ripcurl in any way but for me the C-Skins is just a step above. Super warm, super flexy and very very comfortable indeed.

My Xcel Infiniti gloves are really nice too….toasty warm for that cold NE sea 😀

Had some swell here on and off for the last few days, but Ive been too busy to head in for a surf. Off to Plymouth next Thursday for a couple of weeks so hoping to get in at Fistral for a quick session or two.

C Skins are very good if you don't want to go a bit mad on price – I have their gloves – they work well.

Alder are also a good value/budget (more so than C Skins) option too.

Had one of the older Alder 6/4s back in the day. Was the second suit I ever got, the first being a Frontline Killer 5/4.

Really liked the Alder, but it wasnt very flexible. Lasted very well though, 3 years IIRC

I like O'Neils but they seem to be made for the ganglier surfer.

Oddly enough, I'm 6'5" and love the fit of my two O'Neill Mutant suits. My 5'11" wife has bought two new O'neill suits this month too.

TBH some of the NZ reefs were pretty hardcore and perfect. Still rate Portugal (Ericeira area) VERY highly too – been there twice. And of course SW France gets pretty epic.

We were gutted at the time not being able to go to Indo but TBH, I've scored good waves all over the place without going quite so far. Also got a little one now so long trips are out of the question for a while.

Funny you should say that but the year you missed out on Indo (2000) I went to Portugal for the first time- for some reason I had never been there b4. First time closer to home for a while and had a great time – very cheap charter flight to Faro, with rucksac, board tent sleeping bag etc. Got a hire car at the airport and drove up to Lisbon on my own and worked my way up the coast from there – great trip and the locals were superb, very friendly and welcoming and it was so cheap!! Waves were good but not as big as I know they can be…

And of course SW France gets pretty epic.

Probably the best beach break in the world when its really working, had so many great summers in France and Northern Spain……:)

Re:wetsuits I bought my first ever super stretchy wetsuit on that trip and have beeen a RC Ultimate fan since, but in the market for a new suit next winter so good to hear your comments

xcel infiniti here for the winter and c skins summer/spring suit
both ace, am a convert to xcel from now onfor winter suits.

Hitman – depends a bit on your shape but if you fit Xcels, get one (or two) without question – massively superior flex, durability and warmth to anything else. I kill wetsuits quickly but my last Winter Infinti lasted three years, my last Summer one more than two (usually only get one Summer out of them).

They seem to be made for the slightly broader surfer though – tall and skinny won't fit too well – O'Neils are the choice then.

If on a bit of a budget then C Skins or Alder. Snugg are raved about but they just don't seem to keep up with their technology enough.

That first pic I posted (the floater) is in zero degrees with a frozen beach and a force 4 NEerly wind. Everyone else had hoods on (I hate them) yet I stayed in for an hour and a half and only got cold when I changed. I don't reckon any other wetsuit could do that!

Snugg are raved about but they just don't seem to keep up with their technology enough.

fit and quality of construction is more important to me that the latest, greatest innovation. how many of those innovations have actually endured?

my winter suit is nearly ten years old, looks as good as new and works a treat. its a 4/3 and with a vest for the coldest days does me fine all winter…

Jam – of course fit is vital but wetsuits (with the odd step backwards) just get better and better IMO. Flexier neoprene, better seams, warmer, better zips.

So if a wetsuit fits perfectly AND is made of the best materials, I'm all for it. Trust me, my Xcel is far warmer than any other suit I've had (now on my 2nd Winter and Summer Infiniti) and the Summer one is so flexi that it often feels like I've forgotten to put it on.

Compare this to "high end" wetsuits of 15 years ago and there's just no comparison.

Maybe, but an off the peg top end excel is the same price as a custom fitted snugg. I'm sure the excels are great but I'm sticking with snugg.

And I get to choose the colour….

faint heart never f~cked a pig…!!! as my old fitter used to tell me…

Your old fitter told me you're that bloke who **** and eats it.

Jam – yep they are but a Medium Xcel fits me perfectly (as well as custom made suits I've had) so that's handy. If they don't fit, Snuggs are fine. But I bet an Xcel is flexier 😉

so, looks like there may just be a little wave up wales way in the next week – bring on the after work surfs I say.

Talking of battle scars, heres one from a boat trip to the Maldives central attols. Two weeks, fun(but not very big) surf and no other surfers or tourists spotted for 2 whole weeks!

OUCH! That looks like some mad tribal warpaint or something!

Had similar when a fin sliced my face open – my wife fainted when she saw it!

Yep – waves on the way. At ****ing last!!

Hey surfing-type-stw-ers

I've managed to miss this thread but can now justifiably join you as a proper surfer 😉 Moved out to Newcastle in NSW about 4 months ago and have been surfing at least once a week since I got here. I'm a bit big for this lark – 6'4" and 16 Stone so have gone for a big mini-mal 8'6"x23"x3" which I still can't turn but enjoy falling off on a regular basis. The thing that's going to upset you most is probably the fact that i'm surfing in a spring suit in Aussie winter and i'm a bit too hot – the water temp is usually higher than the air temp out here! If any of you are in NSW and fancy a diversion on the way to the major surf areas, give Newcastle a try and give me a shout. I really am not missing central Scotland 🙂

Hey Hugo – had some good waves in Newcastle when we were in Oz – Enjoy!