Managed to completely mangle one of the torx bolts whilst changing the rotors over and it’s still stuck solid.
Any ideas on how to remove the bugger please?
Also any tips on a decent torx tool that works well?
Some of the new bolts were very tight when fitting, guess due to the blue locktite on the bolts, is it ok to use GT85 to ease the fitting or any other tips?
Thanks

Thin hacksaw cut so you can use a flat-bladed screwdriver.

what he said ^^

Wouldn’t spray it near my rotors personally…

Use an impact driver, I had the same thing, the yackatacka (technical term) will get it loose quick sharp!

With all the other bolts out, slighlty lift and twist the rotor anticlockwise, itll usually grab the bolt and undo enough to get it out with a hammered torx

Last time this happened to me I took the other 5 bolts out then turned the rotor anti clockwise. It only needed about 1/8 of a turn to free the mangled bolt enough so a set of mole grips could be used to remove it.

Edit: beaten to it

Always grease those suckers. Loctite still works on when greased. No grease means you can’t torque bolts correctly…. And they might seize 😉

Cheers guys, good one with lifting & twisting the rotor.
Will have a go with that but also going to get some molegrips when at toolstation.
Any recommendations for decent torx tool/bits too?

If the above methods don’t work then some GT85 / WD40 – just clean the rotor well after (Muc Off Disc Cleaner).

As for good torx bits. The three triangular one is the one I use 99% of the time. The socket set was a whim but mostly unused.

and

I can tell than none of the posters on here has ever serviced a Jap motorcycle with silly little cross-head bolts holding the side panels on the engine, that get stuck for fun in the alloy engine casting.

Spraying WD40 or whatever on it won’t make any difference as it won’t penetrate the siezed threads. The only method that will work is to take the original torx tool or a punch, set it in the centre of the bolt head and give it a sharp whack with a hammer. Miraculously the bolt will free itself, the explanation being that you have shocked the threads and broken the chemical bond.

Will try that too if the others don’t work ta!

Good call mcph with the 3 way thingy, good for leverage.

Pour some boiling hot water on too, worked for me when I managed to round out some stupid 3mm hex bolts. I then hammered in a Torx and hey presto.

mcph which make torx 3 way thingy have you got, Park don’t seem to do that tool?

Boiling water worked for me on a chemically bonded windscreen wiper arm when I’d been trying other methods of Plusgas and whacking it

Alloy and steel 😐

Usually use the angle grinder to cut a big slot in the top and then a big flat headed screw driver to get it out. its worth while investing in a good torx tool. we have a Park one which has yet to let us down.

Boiling water is a good shout as aluminium cte >> steel cte.

If getting mole grips get some decent one. Don’t be tempted by a cheap pack of 3 from places like tool station.

Screw all the torx bolts back in, tight, without **** them up 😉 then try and unscrew the stuck bolt. The tension on it should be less, could try a centre punch too.

Oh right, crosses out the toolstation slip…… 🙂

Found that Park do the 3 way tool but struggling to find it in stock anywhere.

If you need a decent torx bit then look at Wera ones.

I have that one pictured (bought in Thailand though).

For the home tool box, something like below are great – but the Park version (I love their tools). It’s what my LBS use.

“No grease means you can’t torque bolts correctly.”

your right.

if your aim is to over torque the bolt.

if its loctited you dont need grease you just need to apply light heat to break the plastic seal the loctite makes.

plus 1 for a good old fashioned impact driver WITH a propper impact bit. DO NOT use your standard torx head it will shatter.

Thanks guys a combination of….boiling kettle, angle grinder & impact driver got the fooking thing out.
Ordered the 3 way Park torx tool from Bike Tart.

You can buy us all a virtual pint now…. mine’s the Moorhouses Blond Witch, thanks.

“No grease means you can’t torque bolts correctly.”
your right.
if your aim is to over torque the bolt.

Correct torque is achieved on a greased fastener. If you have any friction on the thread (I.e.raw metal or factory applied thread lock) you will not achieve correct torque. If you mean that applying grease means I will over torque the bolt compared to the under torqued value reached without, then yes I guess I am over torquing relative to the grease free under torqued amount. :/

Factory applied thread lock also remains where it dried on application, it doesn’t coat all thread contact surfaces. Look at the factory bolts when removed. The thread lock will have broken free on removal and you will likely see a patch of un-oxidised (shiny) bolt thread where the thread lock was. The rest of the threads are free to oxidise and interact with whatever they are fastened into. Liquid applied blue loctite will disperse as the bolt is inserted and coat all threads, but then you have to deal with the break free force when removing.
Right or wrong, I’ll stick with greasing factory applied threadlock rotor bolts.
Glad granny ring got his out.

Tap it with t’hammer first
then.
Stick the torx bit in a cordless drill, put the wheel horizontal and lean some proper pressure into it whilst letting the motor take care of the twisting. Works for me every time

Globalti, help yourself to one of these

Best one I’ve had lately. 🙂

personally, i wouldnt be greasing any bolts when grease is not recomended by the manufacturer (eg rotor bolts). The manufacturers torque value will relate to a non-greased bolt (in the case of rotor bolts). By greasing them, you will effectively overtighten them. Some bolts should be installed with grease. Some dry. And some with locktight.

Rightly or wrongly I put a wee bit of grease on each of the new rotor bolt threads.

if all else fails……. drill out the bolt. Ive done it before. Just be patient when drilling.

http://www.loctite.co.uk/uke/content_data/LOCT.C.G.final_english_version_genn_08.pdf

which in its self is a lubricant.

Loctite on rotor bolts for me. Alu ones though, suspect I’d round the heads before over torquing them.

application of heat to loctite 243 removes the need for a break out torque also. it reverts to liquid state pretty much.

Another vote for the proper Park tool torx tool with P handle, brilliant tool.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/park-tool-p-handled-torx-wrench-pht/rp-prod86868