Brand new cranks, so slightly upseting, but hey ho, need to get them off.
Any suggestions?
Ordered a Park CP-44 but don’t think there is enough purchase in what’s left of the threads to get them off.
Reckon I’m going to have to break out the hacksaw 🙁

This’ll break your heart

how did you manage that?

I’d go with a 3 legged puller and a couple of penny’s in the hole to push against.

I reckon I could get them off without much if any damage.

I’m calling a combination of threads made of cheese and impatience. Only had a square taper puller so used the outer part, and the crank bolt like the old R.F. X-type method. Had decent engagement too as can be seen from the pic.

I’m confused . Don’t they come with the self extraction any more ?

I didn’t instal the sneeky little 10 mm spacer, so there is a good size gap to get the hacksaw blade on. The cranks are FUBARED anyway even if I did get the off some other less destructive way.

No trail_rat. The Aeffect cranks need a Shimano style puller

Ah hold on. You tried to use a crank extractor with the bolt in?

10mm gap you say.

Ball joint splitter

Find a shop with a stein tool.

I’m sure mine are self extracting.

http://www.raceface.com/media/B10187-rev1-Aeffect_Cinch_Installation-Web.pdf

Aye that would turn them into usable cranks again.

Although. Where does one get the inserts these days …….. We had the tool but I could never get the inserts in the UK.

No I used the outer bolt of my extractor for the bolt to butt against and remove the crank (in theory)

That Stein tool would do it. Just need to find a shop near Edinburgh that has one

Bicycleworks had one when I worked there.

Cheers al, I’ll ive them a try

Can i just support the theory of Aeffect threads being swiss cheese. Went out for the first time with a bunch of lads but somehow embarrassingly couldn’t climb at all. I was having to work unbelievably hard to get up the hill despite having completed 100 miles on the road 2 weeks previously.

My right foot felt really loose but they were new pedals so I assumed they had not been adjusted tightly enough and soldiered on. Luckily one keen eyed member of the group noticed that the right pedal looked totally loose. It turned out somehow the pedal spindle had cross-threaded. I have never managed this in 20 years of cycling and they are all of 3 rides old.

I have (maybe stupidly) ordered and installed another pair of Aeffect cranks and was very, very careful when threading the pedals. It is possible it was user error but I have never managed to do this in the past with SRAM or Shimano so will just have to see how it goes. Your story is worrying though..

For a DIY option then a big screwdriver (or similar) and a hammer will do the job.

Put the end of the drifting tools onto the back of the crank as close the the axle as possible and bash it as hard as you can, move the tool around the crank between hits.

Did this loads of times back in the day when short on tools in my early days and had it again with a Turbine cranks not so long ago after buying a bike which had suffered the same kind of issue as you have.

In my most recent case the damage to the crank was minimal although they have never come back out of the spares box since.

Bought a set of Turbines but would like to save the cranks if possible.
Need to not damage the cinch ring though

UPDATE: Got the cranks off using the CP-44 tool.
Does anybody fancy them on the cheap? CP-44 tool threaded in OK, so could thread in and bond a cap and they’d be bob on.
190mm spacing, 170 mm crank length. Arms only £35 posted?