I have a stock remedy 8 2010 (running wellgo mg1’s), but for a 150mm trail bike I have the awful feeling it’s on the fat side of 30lbs. Which is no good! I look on at the stumpy EVOs at 25lbs in envy!

However, not being anassis (else I woulda bought the oclv version), what would be the best weight saving per pound upgrades for the bike? Running tubeless atm with XR4’s and FR4 tyres.

http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2010/archive/remedy8 spec

Bars, stem, seatpost and cassette will be the cheapest things to lose weight on. The largest drop in weight you could make would be on wheels, but that’s also one of the most expensive.

Are you struggling up hills with it? It may be heavier than other similar bike but if you’re comfortable riding it then I’d save my money. Changing the finishing kit to save 300-400grams is only really worth it if you’re doing it in addition to lighter wheels etc, I doubt you’ll notice the difference on its own

Have you actually weighed it? When i had my remedy 8 it was easily sub 30lb

I had a Remedy 9 and all the finishing kit was pretty good. Bonty stuff tends to be reasonable weight and strong. I’d be surprised if there’s that much spare to save. I-beam post and saddle and carbon bars are probably your best bet. Going 1×10 or 1×9 can save you getting on a pound.

Tyres generally can save a fair bit of weight and the weight saving is down below where it matter I find Schwalbe tyres to be lighest in general. As previous posted consider dropping 1 or 2 chainrings at the front. I cut my seatpost aswell as I found it way too long few grams saved no cost

i’d just stronger

Strip it and weigh everything, that’s your benchmark.

Ignore the comments, every gram saved, is one less gram to ‘pull’ up the hill.

But, don’t compromise on what you want it to do:
ie losing the granny = pushing

My latest ‘saves’ were new pedals/axles:
Old – Shimano M540 = 350g pair
New – Candy 1’s c/w eBay Ti axles = 222g

Not purely for weight saving, as the 540’s were knackered.

Not sure you can compare the Remedy to the Stumpy anyway. If you want 120mm sell it and get a Fuel EX? You’ll save weight that way! Remedy pisses all over both in my opinion regardless of weight…

Stumpy EVO is 150 mm, is it really 25lbs?.

Plan was to go to stinger + turbocharger down to 2 rings. What is the minimum amount of money I would expect to be paying (secondhand is ok) for a wheelset that would be significantly stronger and lighter than the stock set and worth the change?

Bars are 265g, seatpost is 270g, Stem is 120g, Saddle is 300g (I think?), Cassette 384g, front wheel 784g rear wheel 1036g.

Hurm.

Stumpy evo carbon is 24lbs, the normal evo is 27lbs.

Those weights are all quoted though!

I’d add a little weight with a dropper seatpost, and do a weight-neutral swap to double-and-bash, and then I would cease messing with a winning formula.

Those wheels are a decent weight. None of the other stuff is exactly massively lardy. Are you sure it’s as heavy as you think? Does it actually matter?

Stop worrying and ride it, if you want a lighter one get an EX instead…..simples

Single ring up front, Stans Flow rims, and some Point One Podium pedals 😉

The thing with a bike like that is you don’t want to go too light as you will be compromising what the bike is intended for. You need strong kit to make the most of it, otherwise you may as well sell it and buy a Fuel, or similar.

1 X 9 will save you weight & cost next to nowt comparatively. Lush bike by the way. 😉

Those pedals are no jump from the wellgo mg1’s. I could save 400g with finishing kit + cassette. I know it’s no fuel ex, but a fuel ex should be sub 25lbs. I’m just after 27lbs – it’s a trail bike, not a free-ride or park bike. I ‘ave to go ‘up ‘ills.

1800g for a wheelset is not too bad considering it’s for a 150mm travel bike. The flashier Rhythm wheels are closer to 1500-1600g. Might find some on eBay.

Bars could be lighter, seatpost could be lighter as well, however those are not big gains. My Bonty Race Lite seatpost weighted 250g, Thomson is similar as well.

continuity – Member
Those pedals are no jump from the wellgo mg1’s. I could save 400g with finishing kit + cassette. I know it’s no fuel ex, but a fuel ex should be sub 25lbs. I’m just after 27lbs

25lbs for a Fuel Ex that would have to be the top of the range model then. I had a Top Fuel 7 with full xt with brakes and cassette, Easton ea90 stem, rest was Bonty Race Lite kit + wheels, ti Bel Air, Reba etc etc and that was 26lbs weighted on fishing scales. It was not a light build but there was nothing that heavy on it apart from Time Z pedals.

Do you know how much your complete bike weights at the moment?

My brothers 2010 EX9 was 27.5lbs

My Remedy 8 was 28lb with coil Lyriks. My new Carbon one is the same but with a reverb, double/bash, tubeless XR4’s etc. To be honest is doesn’t need to be lighter. Quite happy to ride it up anything, all day every day.

Weighed a friends 2011 Top Fuel 9.9 on Saturday at 24.5lbs, OCLV frame, SID World Cup forks, full XTR etc. Bikes are heavier than people expect!

Definitely agree that if you’re happy with how it rides WGAS what the scales show. If you’re not happy with it, target what you’re unhappy with, IMO if a bike like that feels sluggish then a new cassette and finishing kit won’t help.

29.4lbs on the scales – which weirdly is more than most people’s stock remedy’s (maybe they’re quoting without pedals?)

It feels kinda wallowy and sluggish (not very nimble and chuckable) on the trails, and heavy when I’m pumping it up a hill compared to friends bikes. Bottoming out a lot on small stuff and using loads of travel when I feel like I should be just bobbing along at the top.

Wonder if a 50mm stem would help it feel a bit more nimble through singletrack?

It feels kinda wallowy and sluggish (not very nimble and chuckable) on the trails, and heavy when I’m pumping it up a hill compared to friends bikes like I’d expect a slack 6″ travel bike to feel

?

I’m not sure I’d expect a 6″ travel bike to be particularly ‘nimble’ and ‘chuckable’, put more air in it if you want to stop it wallowing, but if that’s what you’re trying to achieve maybe a Fuel Ex would make more sense.

Also re:air I’m already running air pressures for someone 40lbs heavier than me.

Its a 6″ travel bike. It’s probably best suited to riding in the alps, where your have a chairlift to get you to the top of the hills.

If you want a light, nimble bike, buy a hardtail or 4″ travel xc bike.

Sounds more and more like I shoulda got an ex8 :-(.

Where do you normally ride? Do you actually need 6 inches of travel?

I’ve got an 08 fuel ex7 – does everything great, apart from having piss poor tyre clearance at the rear

David – Wales; afan, nant yr arian, coed y brenin and the surrey hills, and a few trips a year to europe for some long big mountain days. What I like doing is technical trail riding with berms, roots, rock gardens, drops, downhill sections and twisty-turny singletrack.

I felt like a 120mm xc bike wouldn’t have the flexiblity, but the remedy feels more like a wallowy park bike than a long legged xc bike – so I thought that if I could drop a couple of kilo if it it might feel more sprightly.

How have you got the suspension set up? I test rode one and it felt like a long travel EX tbh in sprightlyness rather than wallowy.

There’s not a lot of adjustability – no compression damping on the fork. I run about 215psi back and 110 front, and I weight 180lbs naked. Rebound damping at the suggested point or slightly less damped on both.

http://www.trekbikes.com/pdf/2010/suspension/remedy.pdf

Set it up from there and see how you go, you are running the wrong pressures big time.

Make sure you remember to compress the shock 3 or 4 times to equal the pressures in the chambers after adding or removing air, if not you won’t get correct sag measurements.

Yes, I know. I “should” be running closer to 100 in the front and 210 in the back (shoes plus backpack plus helmet count towards that weight. I added more pressure to the shocks to try and make it feel more nimble and because it was feeling wallowy and bottoming out on the smallest of drops.

The pressure I add for my actual weight has the shock running 35-40% sag (and yes I did cycle it to equalise with the DCRV).

alloy one here done pretty light…

http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/news/article/pro-bike-ross-schnells-ashland-super-d-trek-remedy-26599

I’ve had a couple of Remedys. Old one with the ‘standard’ shock did bottom very easily (though sorted with volume reducers in air can).

Never felt my DRCV shock bottom out and its had a fair bit of abuse. I weigh 150lbs and I’m running 135psi rear for 30% sag. I’ve been struck by how well it does pedal but I’m used to heavier bikes. You checked you’re compressing the shock to equalize the chambers and are getting the right sag?

Other possibilities that either the shock is f***ed or as others have said you really need a shorter travel bike.

Sell it and get a shorter travel bike? No point in riding it if you dont like it.

Best bet is, if it’s a 17.5, swap it for my 28.5lb Heckler 😆

I love it on the technical stuff, it just glides over and rails berms. I just want it to be more sprightly and easier to throw around the trails, and a bit lighter for the inevitable uphills. I did consider that it was too large a frame size for my height (large – 19.5 virtual, 6ft), but I certainly don’t feel stretched out in the slightest, and the guy who owned it before me was shorter than me. I will ask my lbs what they think of the shock, and maybe consider selling/trading to something smaller.

Try setting it up to run 25-30% sag?

Manufacturers suspension settings are often WAY out. Set it to suit yourself.