I’ve got enough spares to be able to keep my Mega 1×10 and also put 1×10 on my new HT build.

I also have a full XT 1×11 groupset which I picked up in the sales from CRC not so long back.

After reading This Thread (sorting XT M8000 chainline – an over engineered solution) I’m now not so sure I want to go down this route and have all the potential ‘faff’.

Don’t want to put the XT on and find it’s not a smooth/nice as my 10spd SLX stuff.

So, do I upgrade my Mega to 1×11 with the super-shiny XT stuff and play about with spacers etc. to sort the chainline, or keep it 1×10 and throw my spares on the HT and get a refund on the XT stuff??

Both the 10spd and 11spd setups have 11-42T cassettes.

I’ve got GX 1×11 (32/10-42) on my main FS bike, and XT 1×10 (32/11-38) on my old Five. TBH there’s little in it and the hassle factor of changing over isn’t worth sacrificing the time to enjoy a ride to do!

Maybe hang on to the 1-11 for future bike spares?

I have both set ups and really cannot notice the difference at all. Wouldn’t bother with the hassle changing it. As above – save for spares.

TBH you should return the XT stuff regardless, or at least the cassette, shimano 11 speed is just pure failure. Either stay 10 speed or do it properly, depending on whether you want extra range or not.

I gave up on M8000 but like the SRAM versions from GX upward, which I tend to run with non-SRAM cranks and rings as I simply dislike GXP. Too many compromises in the Shimano view for me.

Chainline is a funny one. If your 1×10 is running a multiring crank with ring positions simply unused and you’re happy with it you aren’t likely to see a problem with Shimano’s current cranks as that’s essentially what they’ve replicated. There are other cranks with a more modular approach that allow you to fit a direct mount ring or a spider to mount multiple rings and automatically place the rings in sensible places for the application. Picking an appropriate crank is a better approach than trying to shim IMO. All that said (although possibly because of my crank choices) I’ve never felt chainline to be an issue on anything I’ve run. In honesty, the old triple with a ring in the middle position I’ve got on my 1×10 is fine.

If you already have a working 1×10 that’s giving you what you want, I’d not change it. Shift quality and spread of ratios are the two potential wins, but if you don’t find yourself wishing for in-between gears and have no issue with moving in/out of your lowest ratios currently then you’re likely to be disappointed with 1×11.

Personally I’d stick 1×10 as you’re on Shimano, well unless you want 11/46.

The new Deore HG500 is cheaper and lighter than the M7000 or the M8000 cassettes, is still 11/42 but has one less cog in between.

Same range, less weight, less money – unless you’re the type who carefully eases a gear in one at a time I wouldn’t bother, I’m a gear smasher 3 at a time type.

Stick with 1×10 and treat yourself to a Saint shifter 🙂

Unless you do a lot of road miles or flat fast trails on the bike Stick will 1×10. I have a 1×10 (30, 11-42) on the FS and a 1×12 (34,10-50) on the HT when I’m riding the HT I don’t think wow “I have 2 extra gears”. And the climbing gearing is almost the same with both setups, any lower and it would be quicker to walk. The only difference is spinning out on roads. But I don’t ride the bouncy bike on the roads.

Stick with 1×10 and sell me the 1×11 stuff!

czthompson

Stick with 1×10 and sell me the 1×11 stuff!

170mm cranks with 30t ring, I-spec B shifter and 11-42 cassette.

You can have it for what I paid if you like – drop me a message/email if you’re interested.

3 bikes with the 1×10 bodge 40,42 and 46t Sunrace cassettes. Once setup right work like clockwork and are almost fit and forget until something wears out.

Brucey Bonus! I wear out the 11,13 and 15t fastest. You can buy the cheapest standard cassettes in the range (about 15 quid) and keep the existing cassette going for another year or so with donor sprockets 😉

@chestercopperpot – how do you find the 46t Sunrace in 10spd flavour?
That was going to be my next upgrade if I stick with 10spd.

I usedd 1×10 for a few Years and it was flawless, so no need to change specifically for 1×11. I ultimately changed over to 1×11 when I replaced my wheels and just went with a SRAM XD hub and went 1X11 as the cassette was getting pretty tired by then. The SRAM GX rear mech and shiver is quite cheap as is the GX 1×11 cassette.

The main benefit was widening my overall range so a better upgrade, but I wouldn’t do it other than on an attrition basis.

TBH you should return the XT stuff regardless, or at least the cassette, shimano 11 speed is just pure failure.

Now, do you mean the whole thing is crap, or just the cassette?

It’s a pretty sweeping statement I’ll agree, but ask yourself, in a level market without OEM kit and entrenched rider views, would Shimano M8000 have been hailed as a success?

It’s treading water badly and getting away with it because it’s Shimano XT.

1×10 using a double crankset with a bail out granny ring on it you can manually shift into should the need arise is my favourite setup.

@dirkpitt74 – Good it’s a bit easier than 42 on the steeps and doesn’t drop down the block when back peddling. It didn’t work with my 10 speed M615 Deore mech (you can make it work) so I used an 11 speed. When it’s cheap enough I’ll errrr turn it up to 11, just like Shimano I’m in no rush!

molgrips – Member

Now, do you mean the whole thing is crap, or just the cassette?

The cassette’s properly super crap. The shifters and mech are alright at best. (I have XT shifting on a SRAM cassette, which works out OK but I still wish I’d gone all SRAM)

Been using XT 1×11 for the past year and no issues. I upgraded my whole drivetrain from 3×9 after bits started wearing out so made more sense to go 11 speed as the bits were surprisingly cheaper than replacement 9 speed (at the same level of kit). I got an XT rear mech, cassette, chain, shifter and converted my 3×9 cranks with an n/w ring for less than £200.

The chainline’s awful in the lowest gears (biggest sprockets) but it makes no difference when riding. Durability is the same as my old 9 speed kit. I’m usually looking ahead enjoying the ride when I’m on the bike rather than down at my chainline anyhow. 8)

Thumbs up for XT 1×11 from me. XT M8000 brakes are a different matter though. Properly awful things. Go Deore or SLX if you go for the latest Shimano brakes.

I think m8000 is ok. Actually pretty good. The only groupset I have that is better is dura ace on a road bike.

Haven’t tried sram though. Perhaps I’m missing out.

If your 1×10 is running a multiring crank with ring positions simply unused and you’re happy with it you aren’t likely to see a problem with Shimano’s current cranks as that’s essentially what they’ve replicated.

Except that 1×11 puts the largest sprocket further inboard, so you’ll see somewhat worse chainline in lowest gear.

There are other cranks with a more modular approach that allow you to fit a direct mount ring or a spider to mount multiple rings and automatically place the rings in sensible places for the application.

Yep, I’ve got SRAM 1×11 on my CX bike, and a 3mm dished direct mount chainring puts the chainline where you’d want it.

M8000 1×11 does seem like a bit of an afterthought. With the spacers, I’m pretty happy with it, but I doubt it’s worth the upgrade from 1×10 (I was coming from 2×9).

It would make more sense to have the chainline better on the big sprocket and worse on the small one, since all the torque’s going through the big one – no?

Complicated. Actually the force on each tooth increases as the sprocket size decreases, and the wear is spread over a smaller number of teeth. And we don’t spend equal time in each (I reckon that might be the most important factor), or necessarily pedal as hard (the biggest sprocket on my bikes is for lazy-ass spinning). And there’s probably complicated stuff about chain wrap angle too and the amount of rotation in the chainlink pivots. And the other rings will play a part too

Too Many Unknown Variables. And tbh I don’t think it’s really very important at the end of the day, as long as it’s reasonably middly. My SIS 3×6 manual drummed into me the essentilness of not crossing over so it still sticks in my head but I think if we’d started out with 1×10,11,12 on day one of mountain biking, we wouldn’t have ever thought much about it.

1×11 on my P1 & 1×10 on my Genesis.
Horses for courses really depends what you need the extra gear for, I get up everything on both bikes, as for wear the more you ride the more you wear

Thanks chaps.
Think I’ll stick with 1*10 and get the cash back on the XT stuff and put it in the bank – who am I kidding, more shiny bits!!