Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
  • Stealth reverb on a yeti ASR 5…
  • gravitysucks
    Free Member

    I’m going to put a reverb on my Yeti ASR 5. Now it does have cable guides for a dropper cable but it’ll ruin the clean lines I love so much and the rubbing from the cable on a reverb would drive me mad.

    I’m contemplating putting a reverb stealth in and then drilling out a guide boss on the middle of the down tube. My thinking is if I take the middle cable guide off and drill through the boss to make it big enough for a cable it can then then run with the other two cables through top guide.

    Now for a totally clean look I want to get hold of one of the swingarm cable guides. These sit in a hole on the swing arm and are removable to make it easier to install new cables. I could fix it in place with stikaflex or such which will make it secure, seal the edges and make it all look OEM.

    So the two big questions are….

    Is it safe to safe to drill out a guide boss (the holes already there so guessing it is)

    Where can I get hold of a spare swing arm hose guide???

    tonyd
    Full Member

    If you use a swingarm hose guide won’t you have to drill two holes? One for the cable/guide and another for the screw to secure the guide? Might be better to drill just one hole and use a rubber grommit a la Orange Five swingarm. I think it would still look OK.

    gravitysucks
    Free Member

    I was planning on sikaflex the guide in place. It would avoid the need for a further hole and would seal the metal edge against water ingress around the hole.

    Also the hole in the guide is angled so the cable comes out of it running closer to parallel to the frame rather than at 90 degrees like a grommit would.

    I would like to point out I am a tart and even though it will be largely unseen it would satisfy me muchly knowing it was so clean 🙂

    I’m only using a rear mech as well so theres space for another cable in the remaining cable guides…

    Gee76
    Free Member

    I’ve thought about this a bit but it could end up being quite a big hole to prevent the hose from kinking. Be good if you pulle dit off though and kept those clean lines.

    The rear cable cap sits in a large oval recess too so would need a fair bit of filing to make it sit flush!!.

    gravitysucks
    Free Member

    Yeh I know what you mean Gee. I need to pull the guide off and see how small a hole I can get away with. I could file down the back of the guide a bit if it would help as it’ll be sikaflex’d on but will see how it goes.

    Need to get hold of one first!!

    Just emailed Silverfish to see if they can help!

    bigjim
    Full Member

    I would like to point out I am a tart

    you aren’t kidding

    Leku
    Free Member

    I have a spare one.

    £5 posted?

    john@leku.co.uk

    gravitysucks
    Free Member

    Love you long time leku!!!

    wwaswas
    Full Member

    Liteville recommend an 8mm hole;

    http://syntace.my1.cc/liteville/pdf/RockShox_Reverb_Stealth_an_Liteville_engl.pdf

    You may also need to make it longer than they suggest so that the hose goes through without having to go to far away from the outside of the downtube – make the 8mm hole so it’s 16mm long, maybe? Which is huge.

    Try and run a cable through a hole in a piece of sheet steel or aluminium and see how it ‘sits’ against the outside where it would be on the bike – I think you’ll struggle to get an acute entry angle.

    gravitysucks
    Free Member

    Well when I get the spare part I can have a look at what I can get away with.

    I’ll see what I can file of the guide to make it a smaller hole. Even if it makes the angle bigger it’ll be a lot better than 90 degrees.

    I’ll mess with the guide and test fit on a piece of alloy before I drill the frame out to see what I can get away with and what I can’t. If its a no go I won’t have drilled the frame and lost out on anything.

    Nothing ventured n all that!

    gravitysucks
    Free Member

    Am I right in thinking the reverb can use goodridge fitments and thus goodridge cable?

    I could take of the plastic outer of the goodridge feed it through the guide then use electrical tape to re tape it. Should save me 1mm or two and the tape will be inside the frame…

    To be fair I could probably take the metal weave of the cable as well. Its not like you have to worry about the compression factor like you do when using it for brakes.

    gravitysucks
    Free Member

    you aren’t kidding

    And slightly OCD which is a nice combination!

    gravitysucks
    Free Member

    Just had an email back from Scott at Silverfish who has very nicely trotted into the workshop and is sending me a guide 🙂
    So I’ll have one to experiment with and then a final one to get right if I decide to to go for it.

    He also advised against drilling the frame if I was the gravitysucks from this thread.
    Careful out there peeps. They’re watching you!!!!

    #waves at Scott before putting his tinfoil hat on.

    ChrisI
    Full Member

    If its the Scott@Silverfish I dealt with then I think he’s omnipresent, he seemingly sent out the bump stop for my SB66c before the bike shop asked him 😀 (top service!)

    xc-steve
    Free Member

    Not to drag up an old thread but was this every completed?

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)

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