Hello All

I need some help please! I was a keen mountain biker many years ago, and am now getting back on the trails. I currently have in my possession a Stanton Slackline frame unbuilt and a Whyte 19 alloy full bike. Trouble is, I can’t test ride either as the Stanton is not built up and the Whyte I bought on a whim after seeing it online at a huge discount (it is a 2011 model) and can’t take it outside for a ride if I want to return it to the shop. A very daft and back to front way to do things I know….

I intend to ride mostly at trail centres but also around town and some roads. I need to choose which bike to keep. I am drawn to sending the Whyte back to the shop and getting the Stanton built – my only issue with this is that the Stanton may not be suitable for or a bit too much hard work on the flats and uphill? I have read the manufacturers blurb that winding the forks down to 120mm gives an easier XC ride however I have no idea if this is true as I have only ever ridden rigid bikes. Or is the case that the Whyte (120mm travel) can do all the Stanton can except when the descents get a bit mental? I don’t really do mental huge jump descents but I do like to go flat out over the slightly smaller stuff downhill so could do with a bike that handles well and gives me confidence, me being 40+ and a bit of a wuss now.

Any thoughts/ comments welcome!

My slackline is built up with some fox 36’s spaced down to 140mm and climbs absolutely fine, goes along the flat perfectly well and is an amazing descender. No idea on the Whyte but for your intended use I think either will do. Pick the one you want to keep, the one you like the most not which one you got the best deal on.

My Slackline climbs very well on 150mm Revs, it’ll be going rigid for the winter stuff and imagine it’ll cope fine too. As above keep the one you want to ride.

Mine climbs very well on 160mm 36’s 😆

Spend a hundred quid on a second hand road bike and build the slackline up properly, you won’t regret it.

I see all votes for the Stanton! I wonder if a Whyte 19 owner will rear his head at some stage….

Plus of course it’s a faff to build the bloody thing…. If I do I will be on here asking a million questions!

Thanks for all replies to date.

Plus of course it’s a faff to build the bloody thing…. If I do I will be on here asking a million questions!

That’s part of the fun. You build it, you own it proper.

ps I’ve not ridden either bike, don’t write off the Whyte. Either would be a good decision.

I vote Stanton. Nothing at all wrong with the Whyte, but the Stanton is more drool some in my book, beautiful hardtail.

As nobody at all is sticking up for a 19:

I have one:(well had- just the frame now waiting for a reason to rebuild it) an ’09 I think.

It’s a great allrounder. Seriously light, stiff and reliable.

But not built for the same purpose at all as a slackline (I have a Carbon 456 that might be in that ball park).

If it was me maybe think / what you’re really going to use it for. Then decide.

Yes….. think what I will use it for…… hmmmmm.

At a guess 80% XC and the remainder careering down hills. But then it is the careering down hills bit that I really enjoy….. so maybe the Slackline is the one. From the above it appears no one has any real issues with it for XC riding?

Thanks for all the help, I will sleep on it and decide tomorrow. I tell you what though I would be needing some serious input from Slackline owners as I am baffled by fork/ headset/ BB choice etc etc… haven’t built a bike for 20 odd years. And I think that one had stabilisers.

If you do keep the slackline make sure you specify which one you have when asking for help with the build – the older one is Reynolds 853, 1 1/8 headtube, 27.2mm seatpost required. New 631 slackline is 44mm headtube and takes a 31.6mm post.

Thanks Steve – it’s an old one the 853.

Ok I have decided to not be lazy and based on the recommendations of you learned lot I am going to build the Slackline. Oh god here we go…..

Right, first few queries:

Bottom Bracket – I got the shop to install one, photo attached I hope. If I am ordering a crankset is there anything I have to be careful about? Was thinking XT double.

Forks – Fox or Rockshox? Or am I opening a can of worms here. Want travel adjust and lightweight, however Mr Stanton seems to swear by the v. expensive Fox ones with the gold coating….. any recommendations?

Wheels – something light but not ZTRs…. nothing against them I just think they look crap.

Chain device – do I really need one in this age of shadow derailleurs? I see the frame has mounts already.

Budget is not really an issue here, I have been working for years to pay for this moment! The frame is not exactly light so I want to spend my cash on lightweight stuff where I can.

I’d stick with the Whyte.

Oh…

If money is no issue a set of crossmax st or sx’s would be a good shout or even the lairy new enduro one’s if your a fan of yellow – or get some stans arch ex on either hope pro2’s or chris kings and de sticker them if you don’t like the looks, it’s a 135mm qr rear end on the Stanton and your front will be to match whatever fork axle you end up with (20mm or 15mm). Xt double is a good choice of crankset, rose are generally the cheapest – especially as you don’t need a bb (size will be for a 68/73mm bb shell and arm length go either 170mm or 175mm)if you decide on the black ones be prepared for the finish to rub off pretty quickly, personally I’d go silver or tape them if you want to keep em black. If your not doing dh on a regular basis then a chain device is probably overkill with a clutch mech. I’d see how you get on without one and if your struggling then fit something like the bionicon c guide. Lots of good forks out there at the moment but you’ll need to find one with a 1 1/8″ steerer to fit your frame. Some nice bos devilles on pinkbike for sale at the minute with 1 1/8 steerer I your looking second hand. I run 36 floats lowered to 140mm but they may be overkill for general riding. Revelations are good too, bit stiffer than a fox 32 which I found a bit too flexy for me.

IMO Stanton is a very good choice, can be set up for whatever you want to ride from XC to DH to 4X and with careful component selection be very good all round.

If budget no issue first off I’d get duel position Lyriks (£650 at on one)

120mm XC 4X then 160mm Trail Ridding/DH.

http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FORSLRC2DP/rockshox_lyrik_rc2l_160mm_dual_position_air_fork

Crossmax SX wheels (guy on here is selling some her won in an enduro race, brand new £530)

XT Group Set (Ribble had some amazing prices last week if not try Merlin or Rose bike/bike discount de etc)

Renthal/Thomson finishing kit.

Oh yeah and a beautiful LG1 Trail Guide (I’m selling one as new £75 posted RRP £110 😉 )

chapaking – that was quite funny really.

stevede, nwill1 – thanks for the input, all food for thought.

The first thing I have been looking at in detail is forks. Jesus it’s baffling. For instance I looked at Fox and there must be a hundred variations on what at first glance appears to be the same fork. The explanations on the net are not very revealing to a ‘rigid’ man like myself. I like the Lyrik but it looks a bit heavy duty for me. I hear a lot of good things about Revelations, but again the choice confuses me. All I want is a 150 or 160mm max with travel adjust that are light. BOS I have never heard of – I always thought it stood for Bank of Scotland.

Another that did catch my eye are these, but these appear to be a bit niche market?

http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/product/65047/Magura_TS8_R150_Lift_Select_2013_Forks

Having done some more research the Revelations seem to be well thought of and pretty light and stiff.

An idiot’s question though, I see the Slackline is a 1 1/8th” steerer – does this mean I am limited to non-tapered forks only? I see a lot of forks classified as 1 1/8th” – 1.5″ tapered (i.e most Revelations on CRC)

non-tapered forks only in 1 1/8th”frame,and if twas me fox vans mmmmmmm 😀

Thanks for the help…. that narrows down choice quite a bit.

In theory this fork travel adjust thing seems to be a good idea, however I am sure once out and about I won’t be bothered to change the travel. Does anybody actually adjust their travel on a Slackline I would be interested to hear?

If not would a fixed 150mm travel be the best option?

Apologies for all the queries, I am just a bit daunted by all this ‘tech’ I am not familiar with!

150mm Revs on mine, RLT so have lockout. Feel fine even when climbing but don’t have a uturn/travel adjust so difficult to tell if it would be any better.

I very rarely use travel adjust and only one bike I’ve ever owned really *needed* it. I think you’ll be fine with a fixed fork between 130 and 150mm.

XT or SLX crank and groupset would be my choice. Same for brakes. Charge Spoon, Reverb dropper post, 50-70mm stem 740+ wide bars. Stans Arch EX rims on Hope hubs (as above, take the stickers off if you don’t like them). Job’s a good’un.

Does anybody actually adjust their travel on a Slackline I would be interested to hear?

Mine has not been ridden in anger much yet so in all honestly I can’t really comment on how much I use the travel adjust, but I fitted older model Fox 36 TALAS with 160/130/100 travel to match the “do-everything” nature of the frame. 160/130/100 covers everything from DH to the local BMX track. I went with the 631 from mainly because getting 1/8th forks really cut down the availability.

My build;

Frame; Stanton Slackline 631 18″ in Electric Blue
Forks; 2010 Fox 36 Talas RC2 160/130/100
Wheels; Shimano XT M776
Tyres; Conti X-King 2.4’s (Black Chilli Protections run tubeless with Conti revo sealant)
Mech; Zee
Shifter; XT (ispec)
Cassette; XT 11-36
Chainring; Renthal
Brakes; XT
Chainguide; MRP G3 mini
Pedals ; DMR Vaults
Bars; Easton Havoc 750
Stem; Easton Haven 55 mm
Post; Easton Haven
Saddle; Charge Scoop
Various Hope bits; Headset, bar ends, top cap, seatpost clamp