• This topic has 21 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 7 years ago by STATO.
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  • Stans crest mk3 rims
  • blackmountainsrider
    Free Member

    HI,

    Im considering building a set of these onto some dt 240 hubs. Im worried about how strong they are for the rear though. Are they ok for general trail riding if ridden smoothly?

    warns74
    Free Member

    Depends on how heavy you are and the type of riding you’re going to be doing?

    I’ve only ever wrecked one wheel (in 28 years) and it was a mk2 crest. Subsequently realised I was very close the recommended weight limit for crests so replaced with mk2 arch EXs on my hardtail and zero issues.
    (Been on for 2.5 years, I’m 14.5st, 29er HT, trail riding in the south so not too rocky).

    Daffy
    Full Member

    I’ve had them on my CX bike for over a year. No dents or dings, perfectly true. Pain in the ass to build, but fine once done.

    blackmountainsrider
    Free Member

    hmm, they are for a 120mm full sus 29er. Im around 72kg so within the limit. Maybe ill go for a arch on the rear.

    warns74
    Free Member

    Oh, by the way, the one I trashed was on the front!

    blackmountainsrider
    Free Member

    I dont know whether to risk it. Anyone else?

    Daffy
    Full Member

    I’ve ran Crests on my MTBs for years and have never killed one. BUT, they are flexy, even with a good build. Max spoke tension for the rim is quite low, (73kgf iirc) which makes getting tension correct with light spokes such as Revolutions quite tricky. Heavier spokes mean you might erode some of the benefit of lighter rim, but they will be closer to the centre of the hub, so the wheel will still feel lighter.

    Personally, I think Crests coupled with DT Comps make for a fine combo even in 29er form. and especially on a full suss where impact will be lower.

    curvature
    Free Member

    I have had Crests on my Orange Clockwork and then on my Ibis Ripley. Not had a problem on either bike.

    I’m just under 13st if that helps.

    STATO
    Free Member

    Daffy, have you used the Mk3 though? Don’t think it’s fair to say they are rubbish when you are talking about a rim that has a completely different construction.

    Daffy
    Full Member

    Yup. Mk3s are what I have on the Pickenflick.

    I de-stickered them as I’m not a fan of branding:

    STATO
    Free Member

    What size tyre is that? I noticed the Crest only is only rated to 40psi for 2″ tyre. The weight is tempting for gravel bike with 35/40mm tyres but the pressure limit is a little low.

    everyone
    Free Member

    That psi limit is only when you’re running tubeless isn’t it?

    STATO
    Free Member

    They dont specify. I know they have said off record in the past you can go a bit higher tubed but that was never concrete, and the forces are still the same.

    A 364g 29er rim has to have a weakness somewhere though, and compared to the Grail which they introduced especially to take higher pressures is 460g. The Crest is the same weight as the Iron Cross CX rim rated at 45psi for 30mm tyre, and yet its wider.

    Daffy
    Full Member

    They’re 37mm tyres which I’m running tubeless at 45-52psi. Any more and they will blow off the rim.

    Daffy
    Full Member

    Iron cross rims are narrower, deeper and 420g. I’ve had both, but prefer the Crests. Both Grail and Iron Cross are a real pain to get tyres on; again, I’ve had both. They all tubeless just fine, but you MUST take heed of the max recommended pressures. Ignore at your (and your dining room’s) peril.

    packer
    Free Member

    Yup. Mk3s are what I have on the Pickenflick.

    Those are not Mk3 from the photos. They’re the old graphics.

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    I’m 100kg on Rapides (cant remember if that’s OEM Mk1 or MK2), you’ll be fine.

    That said, if buying new then Arch’s are probably more suitable.

    As for pressure, I never had a problem with CX tyres at any (appropriate) pressure, normal (>2″)tyres do however blow off the rim at 40spi.

    D0NK
    Full Member

    I run crest on my 29er hardtail coz it’s mainly head down long distance riding, not hammering down rocky descents. For a full susser I’d probably go for arch but I’m heavier than you and I do have a fat arse appreciable rear weight bias on descents.

    Having said that – the crest hope hoop I got for my 26″ FSer years ago, that I dinged in the first week and put a twist in a few weeks later (which kinda put me off speccing a rear crest again) still hasn’t died, it’s still roundish and holds a tubeless tyre and still gets ridden fairly regularly and smashed down rocky hills.

    TL:DR they build into a decent wheel but if you like to push your luck with low tyre pressures and big rocks they can be fragile.

    andyl
    Free Member

    . packer – Member
    Yup. Mk3s are what I have on the Pickenflick.
    Those are not Mk3 from the photos. They’re the old graphics.

    I am viewing this on my phone and even I can see they are mark 3 graphics.

    packer
    Free Member

    Crest Mk3:
    http://www.notubes.com/Crest-MK3-C211.aspx

    Versus the ones in that photo:
    http://www.notubes.com/ZTR-Crest-C163.aspx

    Am I missing something??

    STATO
    Free Member

    I think there is some confusion as they updated the graphics on all the ZTR rims not long before the introduction of the MK3. Or at least I hadn’t really noticed the new graphics on the old rims until I saw the Mk3 stuff announced.

    STATO
    Free Member

    Original Crest

    2015 Crest

    2016 Crest MK3

    Its not really a MK3 either as it didn’t go EX like the Arch or Flow, I think they just kept the naming convention across all the models as its a big step change in their approach to rim design.

    Mk3 are 2mm wider, but also 365g, 15g lighter than previous versions
    (weights for 29er version)

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