Viewing 18 posts - 1 through 18 (of 18 total)
  • S/s sprocket on Pro II alloy freehub?
  • ononeorange
    Full Member

    Apologies if this has been up before, but I want to run a different set of wheels on my singlespeed. I’ve got a Surly sprocket, and while it’s a wider footprint, am I risking chewing up the alloy Pro II freehub so much that I won’t be able to go back to a 9 speed cassette?

    Any views?

    markenduro
    Free Member

    Should be ok with the surly ones. You can always file off the burrs anyway, it’s what I had to do when I changed casettes on mine.

    simondbarnes
    Full Member

    You’d be much better off with a steel freehub body.

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    Stoner
    Free Member

    Ive not heard of any problems with any of the wider sprockets on alloy freehubs whether you’re using Surly, Boone or On-One Groove Armada (Ive just started using the latter on an alloy freehub)

    EDIT: Well, there you go, first time Ive seen a wide footed notch in an alloy freehub? Are you built like Victoria Pendleton or something barnes? 🙂

    zaskar
    Free Member

    He has a set moobs? 😆

    pjt201
    Free Member

    and a very odd chainline!

    simondbarnes
    Full Member

    Not my hub, it’s a friends. She’s quite a strong rider though 🙂

    markenduro
    Free Member

    Simon, what does she look like from behind?
    Must have legs like Hoy to do that…

    GavinB
    Full Member

    You should be fine to use a Surly cog on a ProII, provided you get the lockring up to the correct torque ie 40Nm. Its the same with using a full cassette, if you only do it up handtight, as soon as you put any force through the system, the splines will take all of the stress, leading to a chewed freehub body.

    Olly
    Free Member

    ide say get a steel freehub body if you have the wheels already.
    if not, ure in the same situation i was in a few months back, wanting a wheel good stonrg and reliabe for SSing, but capable of taking 9sp, and went with a second hand Hope XC instead (40 quid for a wheel, the rim i wanted on the hub i wanted)

    Stoner
    Free Member

    if you only do it up handtight, as soon as you put any force through the system, the splines will take all of the stress

    and just how do you think the power is transferred to drive with the lockring done up to 40Nm? Magnetism?

    ski
    Free Member

    That’s quite impressive Simon, any idea how long that took to do?

    ononeorange
    Full Member

    Olly – thanks for the steel suggestion, I realise that’s the best answer. The current wheel has a steel XC freehub, but I wanted to swap my Pro II alloy set onto the bike as it means I could run it tubeless (I’m sick to death of undoing all the chaintug gubbins following an endless stream of punctures). In my case, I don’t want the cost of a new freehub, so I thought I’d see if I could “get away” with the alloy freehub for a while.

    Appreciate the suggestion from GavinB about doing it up really tight, but the picture from Simondbarnes is rather striking – it may have just convinced me to put up with endless punctures!

    Cheers all.

    Olly
    Free Member

    or go for a gehtto tubeless?
    or for the price of a new rim go proper tubeless?
    i pressume its pinches your suffering from.

    you could puncture proof your tyres trials style?

    a length of seatbelt, sat between the tube and the tyre, prevents pinches (i think because its hard to fold) without costing a fortune in trials specific tyres.
    run it on my street/dirt bike for aaaaaaages

    ononeorange
    Full Member

    Thanks Olly. Actually, it’s thorns mostly round my way, but to put the little devils in context, in the last 2 short rides I have had 5 punctures!

    I’m totally confused “how to” tubeless – does ghetto mean using a Stan’s type kit on non-UST tyres? I gave up about 2 hours in to reading a mass of conflicting websites….!

    Olly
    Free Member

    tubeless is mainly for pinches iirc.
    slime tubes work brilliantly against thorns, but they are a bit heavy, and make a massive mess if they do pinch.

    slime also do a protective strip that is supposed to be pin proof, that goes between the tyre and the tube.

    when i was riding country lanes in shropshire as a kid, i always used slime tubes.

    stopped using them because i moved to wales and u dont get thorns out there, just pinches.

    ghetto is homebrew i think.

    as a rim liner, you can use a BMX tube, and then any sealent of your choice, on any old tyres.
    ide erccomend you give slime a try, for about 7 quid a tube, not a massivly expensive experiment.
    they are a bit heavy, but think of it as training 😉

    ononeorange
    Full Member

    Thanks again. I’ll give ’em a go!

    FuzzyWuzzy
    Full Member

    Tubeless is great for thorn type punctures not just pinch flats/snakebites, just look at the Stan’s video riding over the nail board :p You can’t just use any old tyre though (even with ghetto tubeless) as some have too weak beads or too porous sidewalls and will burp or just not seal.

Viewing 18 posts - 1 through 18 (of 18 total)

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