Just built my P7 with slidding drop outs, having a problem keeping the dropouts from slidding forward when pilling on the power, anyone got any ideas and a tensioner type thing?

I seem to remember a few owners ditching the stock allen-head bolts and putting in something with a hex head so you can get more leverage with a decent spanner rather than an 80mm long allen key.

I might end up going halford/B&Q and get some proper bolts and washers.

How old is the frame, have you got the newer 3 bolt dropout on the brake side?

ah i see, so if i get some half links for the chain and put a bolt in there all may be sorted i see

Do you not have chain tensioners? They usually hook onto the end of the dropouts and prevent from the chain un-tightening.

something like this…

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?PartnerID=79&ModelID=17622

ah they would be good, but i think they only work on this style dropout

http://www.rockandroadcycles.co.uk/smsimg/4/mf7558_frame-io.jpg

not like on the P7

http://www.orangebikes.co.uk/2008bikes/p7-pro.php#

Correct me if im wrong

I can’t see the drop outs on the orange properly, but the chain tugs work with both forward and rear setups.

Unfortunately, it’s pointless fitting chaintugs to the dropouts if it’s the dropouts themselves that are moving.

If its the dropouts themselves moving (like on my Kona) then bolts should do the trick, you can get it much tighter than the soft alloy allen bolts 🙂

With some modification, you should be able to use an on-one 5mm qr chaintug under one of the bolts, then get the bolts to push on the back of the dropouts.

I think you have to saw/file a bit off the on-one chaintug though.

http://www.on-one-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Chaintugs_195.html

This used to work on our old sliding dropout design (that Michael from Orange said they copied).

hmm had a mixed attempt at sorting it, got a surly tugnut and bodged that to kinda work, but still want to get some proper bolts but cant find m5 bolts with hex heads anywhere.

M5 bolts for holding the wheel tight? Your joking right, it’s no wonder they slip!

Do you mean a 5mm headed allen bolt?

www. stagonset. co.uk

Same as the ones for the bottle cage, yea i know mad, thats why i want some proper old fassion bolts

You need something like this, which is a hex head. I think allen headed bolts are normally referred to as socket head.

(clicky)

Regardless of head shape, if they are only an M5 thread you won’t really gain any more torque. An M5 bolt is likely to have an 8mm hex head and most 8mm spanners aren’t 4mm going to be much bigger than your average allen key. The thread will strip before then anyway.

By ‘Same as bottle cage’ do you mean same size allen key or same size thread? I really struggle believe they are using M5 thread bolts.

The allen bolts on my Kona were crap, hard to do up tight as they were soft and the allen key always wanted to round off. (which it eventually did) The hex bolts (I think they are either M8 or M10) are much better, you can use a ring spanner and really torque them up with no chance of rounding off the head.

I thought the cap-head screws on the rear of a P7 where M6.

Nope same size thread, i can swap them around, the hex head should allow me to get a nice ring spanner on it and torque it up and as the bigger head will give me a bigger surface area to grip, plus wont round of easy as there steel, which is nice

As I mention above, if it’s only a 5mm thread then I wouldn’t advise a lot more more torque than you can get with a 4mm allen key otherwise all you will do is strip the thread rather than the head.