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  • SRAM X01 11spd Cassette removal
  • iridemybike
    Free Member

    It’s time to dig deep and change the X01 11spd cassette (I’ve ordered the much cheaper X1). A simple question before I get all ham-fisted and break something – do I remove the cassette in the usual manner (undo the lock-ring) or is there something I need to be aware of and/or some unfathomably expensive tool I need to purchase?
    Whilst I’m on the subject … For years I’ve generally gone through 3 chains(ish) for every cassette. With the X01 I’m having to change the chainring (opted for Blackspire Snaggletooth) & the cassette, whilst the chain hasn’t even reached the .75 point – is this the new standard?

    coblck
    Free Member

    Just usual cassette removal tool, there is no lock ring on these cassettes, just place removal tool as normal in centre of cassette and attach wip and loosen as normal and bobs your uncle. I find with my hopes that removing the 142×12 drive side adapter helps as well.

    stooo
    Free Member

    Yep… As above.

    mintimperial
    Full Member

    removing the 142×12 drive side adapter helps as well

    This is a very good idea. Make sure that the lockring tool is fully engaged, right down into the cassette, otherwise you can easily snap the teeth off the lockring. Even more important when fitting your shiny, expensive new replacement!

    boxxer7
    Free Member

    Is the chain slipping on the cassette then? Seems strange I’m on my 2nd chain on my XO1 it’s been fine and it’s now done 1300 miles I’ve not had to change chainrings either.

    As for the tools, the cassette comes off in the same way a normal one does just make sure the locking tool is sat in properly and the whole thing unscrews as one piece.

    iridemybike
    Free Member

    boxxer7 – Member
    Is the chain slipping on the cassette then? Seems strange I’m on my 2nd chain on my XO1 it’s been fine and it’s now done 1300 miles I’ve not had to change chainrings either.

    As for the tools, the cassette comes off in the same way a normal one does just make sure the locking tool is sat in properly and the whole thing unscrews as one piece.

    Slipping on the 42T when climbing hard … especially on wet’n’grimy days.

    Daft question (showing a distinct lack of tech skills). If there isn’t a lockring, why do you need the chainwhip? On other cassette’s I’d hold the cassette still with the chainwhip & undo the lockring with the tool; if there is no lockring, what is it you’re undoing?

    boxxer7
    Free Member

    The locking if you can call it that is part of a sleeve that threads onto the XD driver, you still need the chain whip to hold the cassette as your undoing it in the direction it freewheels. Maybe you could hold it by hand but I’ve not tried.

    If your using the 42T a lot might be worth dropping a chainring size on the front so you don’t need it as much. Don’t oneupcomponents do a replacement Alu top ring for the cassettes now?

    iridemybike
    Free Member

    Thanks boxxer7 – It’s making sense now!

    I do use the 42T a lot … didn’t occur to me to use a smaller chainring to even out the wear. Blackspire do a 28T Snaggletooth for 94 BCD (although nobody seems to have stock for very long).

    I also like the idea of the 44T OneUp sprocket to get some extra life out of the X01 cassette.

    A combination of both will definitely help when I do the Highland C2C in 7 weeks 😀

Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)

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