Dumbass question, but is it as simple as inserting the 10mm hex in the drive side and loosening, or do I need to do something else as the damn thing won’t budge?

I assume it’s an external BB or BB30 setup, not ISIS or anything equally arcane?

The bolt is normally very tight indeed, you may need to add a length of pipe to your allen key for leverage or use a rubber mallet.

S1400 cranks on a BB30.

Right then more leverage required.

Thanks.

Is it not 8mm into the inner hex?

hmm, says 10mm in the “outer” cap so assumed it was that….

10mm for the cap, 8mm for the actual bolt ?

Bum. He’s right.

10mm for the retaining nut, 8mm for the inner self-extracting bolt.

oops.

😳

I’ve found that the SRAM cranks tend to take quite a bit of force to get them moving. I use a foot long breaker bar on a socket to remove mine as I probably wouldn’t have a chance with a normal hex key.

It is 8. Thanks to the LBS.

But 8mm goes straight through and doesn’t match up with anything, so it must be 10mm.

8mm on my gxp X0s. Never had a problem and doesn’t take much effort

More of a pain in the arse to get back on to be honest.

It was an 8mm on mine. However, if you are using a t bar wrench, where the long bit has a groove near the bottom, you need to make sure that you are not catching the groove on the bit you need to turn. I found that if you push it in and the back out a little it catches and turns with a little force. Hope this actually makes sense but it did do my head in for a while too.

Went out and bought a new set of Pro hex tools as I didn’t have either 8 or 10mm. The 8 just passes straight through without touching the sides, so it must be 10mm however I’m clearly not applying enough force.

Back to the shop and they can do a couple more small jobs on it at the same time.

8 on mine too. Sounds weird. The 10 is for the self extracting cap, the 8mm is for the actual bolt. Can’t see why they’d have changed it. Did you install it OP?

The cranks are factory fitted as OEM products on my Cannondale, so I assume that they are correct.

Anyway I’ll report back after I’ve visited the shop where I bought the bike from.

Sounds like the cranks on my Cannondale. They’re definitely 10mm and on very tight. Ended up using the extending socket bar from my motorbike tool kit to get it loose. Tried putting it back on with a hex key but it came loose in no time.

10mm, allen key and a 2 ft extension bar and a lot of stopping the cranks spinning too. Bit of an arse, but you are there, just need more muscle behind it.

If they are torqued up they don’t tend to come loose
But It does take a fair amount of force
50nm give or take

Had the same issue last week. Look back at my history and you will see thread. Basically I ended up having to hold the non driveside crank arm in my work stand and put a set of old handlebars on the end of the 10mm hex and give it some serious beans.

Good luck

I think it’s 8mm NDS for GXP, 10mm DS for BB30.

So to conclude, it was 10mm, and it took two people holding the cranks and another with a one meter extender to apply enough force to remove the damn things.

Anyway now my Absolute Black oval ring is on and I’ve gone 1 * 10.

Strangely I was chatting to Gee of this parish on a ride last week and he was saying his are also stuck, so you’re not alone! Glad you got them off though.