help which would u guys choose ?

Test ride, then decide.

I had a nice weekend on a 2015 650 Enduro, here – http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/specialized-enduro-elite-650b-a-quick-review

If it was down to just those 3….
Spec is out for me due to the amount of proprietary shite that seems to slip in
Canyon – no chance of test ride
So the Jekyll if I liked it…

I’d probably demo as many bikes as I could then pick one though

Strive in race geometry.

The others are too short for me.

I currently have a blur ltc in small and i am 5.8 , i find too short and twitchy

I’m 5’9 (arm/torso/leg length matter a lot) and medium on an LTc so I would say you are on a really tiny bike.

Have a look at the new solo/bronson?

Spec is out for me due to the amount of proprietary shite that seems to slip in

The shock mount is Specialized specific, so if you want to buy a different shock, you need to go through specialised, or Mojo, or Europe. Not that hard.

The rear wheel is 142+, but the frame takes 142 no problem.

How often do you buy a new shock, and the wheels are decent (30mm wide).

So that statement is pointless.

I went through a similar thought process, but added in:

YT Capra
Orange Five
Transition Patrol Carbon
Pivot Mach6
Norco Range c7.2
Santa Cruz Nomad and new Bronson

I was looking for a bike that wasn’t mega expensive (SC out), had long reach (Pivot out), was avaiable within a couple of weeks (patrol, YT and canyon out), was carbon (five out).

I was also looking for a bike that didn’t need to swap out parts immediately.

The shock mount is Specialized specific, so if you want to buy a different shock, you need to go through specialised, or Mojo, or Europe. Not that hard.

The rear wheel is 142+, but the frame takes 142 no problem.

How often do you buy a new shock, and the wheels are decent (30mm wide).

So that statement is pointless.
I swap out shocks when one goes for service, wheels fair play but just prefer not to have any hassle, like my mate who just picked up an s-works road bike only to find they are not selling any aftermarket/replacement chainrings that will fit it. For that Spec don’t get any of my cash, it’s an opinion, and it’s mine and it has a point.

For once I agree with Mike.

Why put up with that sort of shit from a bike company if you don’t have to?

An Aeris 😀

You could also try a Scott Genius LT

mikewsmith – Member
If it was down to just those 3….
Spec is out for me due to the amount of proprietary shite that seems to slip in
Canyon – no chance of test ride
So the Jekyll if I liked it…

You’d exclude a Specialized because it has a propietary shock mount (which can be adapted for pretty much any shock), and pick a Jekyll, with a Cannondale pull shock that has forty cables hanging off it?

I’d have the Canyon, because despite the shapeshifter problems, the geomery is better than the others, lovely, long, slack bike. Enduro is very, very good, but not as good.

Good point, all the bikes in the list have “special” features that I’d prefer they didn’t.

I’m gonna go full STW and suggest some 160mm bikes that weren’t on the list – Reign, new Mega and new Whyte G160.

🙂

I’ve got a Jekyll 4; I bought it from Paul’s cycles at a price that couldn’t be ignored.

I’ve always tried to keep my bikes as “standardised” as possible. That is, if something breaks I can easily swap kit over to keep me going. I was very dubious about the Jekyll due to the pull shock; firstly due to that proprietary nature, but also because it’s a fox (I’ve had a lot of bad experience with fix air shocks). So far this shock has been brilliant; it squeaks a little but ultimately out performs any standard RP23 I’ve used. It’s basically unnoticeable – no quirks or strange characteristics.

The geometry is very neutral and easy to live with; just slack, long and low enough to still enjoy normal trails etc. In other words, it’s not a steamroller that dulls the trail but nor is it particularly lively – it responds very well to whatever you put in.

The only things I’ve changed are to convert it to 1×10 with a narrow wide chainring, fit slightly wider bars & a slightly longer stem. None of this is particularly necessary, it’s just that I know what I like.

Overall it’s decent value at full price but astounding at Paul’s price, and leaves enough spare cash to fund the annual Alps trip.

like my mate who just picked up an s-works road bike

That irrlevent here to an Enduro bike conversation, though isnt it?

I swap out shocks when one goes for service

To swap shocks, that implies you’ve bought a spare shock in the right stroke and eye to eye. So why not just buy one with the right mount too if you’re going to that effort?

If you’re swapping them off other bikes, with the same eye to eye and stroke, then you’ve got too many bikes!

I’ve had issues with the Cane Creek shock on my Enduro, and Specialized have been totally amazing, turning around a new shock (of my choosing) in a couple of days. So I’m not really sure where the animosity for Specialized aligns to reality.

I’ve a couple of mates with Cannondales, which have had issues, and they seem like a bit of a pain to deal with in comparison. As do YT and Canyon.

[quTo swap shocks, that implies you’ve bought a spare shock in the right stroke and eye to eye. So why not just buy one with the right mount too if you’re going to that effort?

If you’re swapping them off other bikes, with the same eye to eye and stroke, then you’ve got too many bikes!

I’ve had issues with the Cane Creek shock on my Enduro, and Specialized have been totally amazing, turning around a new shock (of my choosing) in a couple of days. So I’m not really sure where the animosity for Specialized aligns to reality.

I’ve a couple of mates with Cannondales, which have had issues, and they seem like a bit of a pain to deal with in comparison. As do YT and Canyon.ote]

how do you find it climbing and is it twitchy on fast desents ?

The last thing I’d say about the Enduro is that it was twitchy. It’s a good length reach and ett, and the bottom bracket is low’ish, even though the printed geometry says in not – it tends to sit lower in the travel.

It’s actually got a long wheelbase, one of the longest when compared to its peers, which does mean its good flat out on straight flat DH runs, but to be honest, who the hell in the UK does those kind of descent? Even on Uplift days I don’t do much of that. But does have incredibly short chainstay at 422, so its nippy through corners.

It’s very good climbing, but I’ve always thought that climbing is very simple… If the bike is Light, it’ll climb better. Suspension tune is what differs grip. You’ll find it hard these days to buy a bike that does climb like a turd, if the weight is under 30lbs.

It’s 27lb in expert format and 29lb in Elite alu format. Which is very light for a 165mm travel bike.

It’ll not be as ‘efficient’ as a dw link bike, like a Mojo HD3 or a Pivot Mach6, but I’m not a fan of the geometry of those for me, if you’ve got a short body, they’d be much better suited, or if you like short bikes.

I’d also say, if you’re thinking of buying an Enduro, have a chat with the guys at BikeScene, I’ve had very positive experiences with those guys as have a fee others on here. Very professional, and incredibly good customer service.

I’ve got no connection to them, other than buying a bike.

Have a go on an enduro 29er also if you can.

He’s not wrong, all the benefits of a 29er with none of the drawbacks. Short stays than most 650b bikes.

The last thing I’d say about the Enduro is that it was twitchy. It’s a good length reach and ett, and the bottom bracket is low’ish, even though the printed geometry says in not – it tends to sit lower in the travel.

It’s actually got a long wheelbase, one of the longest when compared to its peers, which does mean its good flat out on straight flat DH runs, but to be honest, who the hell in the UK does those kind of descent? Even on Uplift days I don’t do much of that. But does have incredibly short chainstay at 422, so its nippy through corners.

I know all these things are subjective of course, but it really isn’t ‘long’ in the reach department, nor is it low in the BB department (2mm drop?), and it’s wheelbase isn’t long (or even close to what’s considered long these days!) for it’s given size.

There are lot of medium sized bikes out there with longer reaches, lower BB’s & longer wheelbases.

Given the choices from the original question though. Strive Race – i’d take a gamble with the Shapeshifter other the other 2 bikes, quite happily 🙂

I never said it had a long reach, I should clarify that I’m immediately thinking that you’re sizing up on a Specialized, as the size names don’t match the geometry.

Incidentally – if the shapeshifter does go pop on a Canyon, you’re left with a fully functional 160mm bike – you just lose the climb mode – and it climbs as well as any other 160 bike without it.

Honestly, tough crowd…
Thinking about really none of them..

like my mate who just picked up an s-works road bike

That irrlevent here to an Enduro bike conversation, though isnt it?

I swap out shocks when one goes for service

To swap shocks, that implies you’ve bought a spare shock in the right stroke and eye to eye. So why not just buy one with the right mount too if you’re going to that effort?

If you’re swapping them off other bikes, with the same eye to eye and stroke, then you’ve got too many bikes![/quote]

I’ve got about 4 shocks of various ages and e2e that have worked across a number of bikes and got me out of trouble in the past, last time my shock went back under warranty it took nearly 4 weeks due to there being a huge backlog, so being able to rummage around and get something to get me going was really nice.
The point was in general about the standard factory at Spec, not a fan and it puts me off their bikes completely. There is no need for it at all.

I’ve got about 4 shocks of various ages and e2e that have worked across a number of bikes

That’s great, but how many other people are gonna be in that situation? It’s very unlikely to help the OP. Especially since most people haven’t been riding 160mm travel bikes as standard until the new wave of Enduro bikes came out.

It’s a fair point, and totally agree that there’s no need for proprietary parts on a bike, but with regard to the OPs question, the shock mounting and rear wheel (not the frame, as you can buy a new set of wheels and run them no problem if you wanted, the only downside is you can’t sell the rear wheel to anyone who doesn’t have a Specialized 142+ bike) aren’t a reason to *not* buy, as for the vast majority of people, its not going to cause any problems.

Back to the OP, they’re all decent bikes that I listed. The first question you should get your head around is if you’re happy with buying from the continent, and knowing that you’ve got a much longer wait to buy it and a slightly longer time to get stuff fixed.

If you’re OK with that, then you have the YT and Canyon options still open.

Then its largely down to, price and looks. There’s barely anything in it between most of the new crop of Enduro bikes. The only two I’d say are different enough are the Mondbraker Dune, which is massive, and the Ibis Mojo, which is like a BMX.