Mine snapped, strangely one of the plates on a link failed and the pin was intact. Naturally I removed the link & pin and rejoined to the next one along.

Now, bearing in mind you stand up and push harder more on a road bike than MTB (arguably?), is my fixed chain, assuming I’ve joined it properly OK to continue with strength wise or do I need to buy an new one?

I’d like to find out before the next club ride to avoid annoying people by having them wait for me…..

did you use a new pin(s)?

If not I’d take out the link either side of the break and put fresh ones in either with new pins or joining plates.

It’s pure power, that’s what it is…

To be fair I’ve had 9-spd chains held together with 3 power links before and they’ve lasted a good 6 months before I swap them out for new (but then again I don’t have the choice to spaff £35 on a chain every time they snap in which case I probably would).

I reckon my MTB chain gets far more stick.

a) more likely to mash gear changes
b) shock loading pedaling over rocks
c) less consistent power output would imply a higher average power if you exclude ‘zero’.
d) the chains usualy in worse condition (stretched/worn) on an MTB

If you can see where the new join is I’d do it propelry (powerlinks or shimano pins). If not take a few spare links and a few power links on the next ride so you can quickly patch it up if it goes again.

I’d guess an mtb chain has a harder time. Smaller chainrings = more leverage.

If you rejoined it properly, then it should be fine. Most if not all 10s chains need a special link or pin to be re-joined reliably though.

New pins or a speed link, you can join a chain with the pins in the old way but it will fail.
Shimano needs special pins, SRAM use a link.

Just stay in Zone 2, you’ll be fine.

But seriously right, throw it in the bin. It will fail again. The only way to rejoin a road chain is with a split link.

Shimano needs special pins, SRAM use a link.

Not true – they include pins, but you can use a quick link if you want!

It’s pure power, that’s what it is…

It could be, i averaged a whole 184 watts this ride! Seriously though, it happened on a restart on a hill, I stopped due to a red light on sim road works.

I’ll take a power link with me, if it goes again I’ll splurge on a new one :-/

Cheers

Hmm. SRAM PC1051’s £15 notes on sale at Planet X…

Nah, KMC mate, you get a split link with it. Have a look on ebay, they’re usually cheap on there.

Any particular model David or any one of them – I don’t know the kmc version of sora, tiagra etc? Currently running Ultegra if that helps.

Don’t think it matters, just make sure its an X10. Whatevers cheapest I guess. Also, make sure its a proper boxed one, if its super cheap it probably wont come with a split link.

Heres one, might be cheaper if you search google shopping, but I dont know.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KMC-X10-73-10-SPEED-CHAIN-SHIMANO-CAMPAGNOLO-SRAM-CH1073-/280885681847?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item4166175eb7

You worry FAR too much about EVERYTHING kryton.

I’m inclined to agree with this ^^^

What did you do before STW, make decisions!?

I agree on KMC chains, I like X10SLs, about £21 on eBay from Taiwan.

I’ve snapped several chains on the road, particularly when doing big gear intervals, not quite as often as on the MTB though, agree with less torque on the road.

I just didnt want to inconvienience the club ride 30 miles out so thought I’d get opinion on the reliability of the fix. *shrugs*

I’ve only ever had a SRAM 10 fall apart on me, and I’d done something naughty splitting and joining completely ignoring about power locks and stuff. I picked up the pieces and rejoined it by the roadside. It was a week old at the time.
It’s done more than 1000 miles of mixed offroad, commute and site seeing in the Derbyshire since (inc Mam Tor) and I’m thinking it might be time to replace it.

In future I’ll use KMC links on SRAM 10’s for easy joining, but this one has proved that carefully breaking and rejoining can work. Just carry a chain tool if you’re going to try this…

Can I get some more opinions on this please; ie should I ride with a chain snapped and fixed with an original/normal shimano pin (not the one involved in the snapping)?

Worry-a-lot-from London.

Ta

If you fixed it with a proper Shimano joining pin then you should be fine (personally I’d prefer to fix with another splitlink though but I couldn’t back that up with evidence they’re stronger/more reliable…
If you do still have concerns then buy a new chain as a chain breaking can be painful (it can also cause the chain to jam and rip the rear mech off) so £20 on a new KMC chain for peace of mind isn’t a big expense.

I think you should replace the entire bike ‘just in case’.

I’ll take the current one off your hands so you don;t have to look at it and fret any further.

Yep, if it’s a proper joining pin then the join will be fine, although if the chain is at the stage of snapping there’s every chance it’ll go again.

Just stick a powerlink in it…anyway I thought you were wealthy enough a new Dura Ace to be delivered in a fabergé egg? 😉

Right I’ll repeat what I thought I said earlier;

It wasn’t a joining pin, its an original from the previous link pushed out, chain joined and put back in the field as a get me home repair.

The chains has only done about 1000 miles. I can carry a SRAM power link with me. I have a 50 mile club ride Sunday and I don’t want to smash my bollocks onto the top tube any more than I want to hold up the club boys whilst repairing a chain I knew had broken before.

I DO have a new chain arriving today so I could just write it off an bang the new one on….

Just stick a powerlink in it…anyway I thought you were wealthy enough a new Dura Ace to be delivered in a fabergé egg?

Chip, shoulder etc – you don know that by not spending money is how the rich stay rich, right? No need to be frivalous, else I’d have followed wwaswas advice… 😉

Right I’ll repeat what I thought I said earlier;

[ahem]

If not I’d take out the link either side of the break and put fresh ones in either with new pins or joining plates.

[/ahem]

New chain should mean new casette, even 1000 miles will have wear in it and probably skip in your most poular gears. Good luck.

No way, unless it’s been ridden in properly filthy conditions it’ll be fine after 1000 miles!

If you’ve done it properly then it may be alright, problem is the hole is now slightly enlarged, and you can’t guarantee. I’d change the chain.

wwaswas – Member
Right I’ll repeat what I thought I said earlier;

[ahem]

If not I’d take out the link either side of the break and put fresh ones in either with new pins or joining plates.

[/ahem]

I did the link bit, but perhaps stupidly (rolls eyes with sarcasm) didn’t take a box of new / joining pins with me out on my ride – I had to use what I had, and although I looked very carefully in all the hedgerows and fields within a 200m circumference, there were none to be found lying about.

Rught, thanks NJEE thats what’ll do albiet my anxiety has cost me nearly 3 minutes wages* it’ll give me confidence.

The boys ride hard so I need to work hard to keep up and I need the chain to keep the strain!

*added for BHB’s benefit, although its not true 🙂

errm (tries to avoid rolling eyes with sarcasm), I meant do that *now* not when the original incident occured.

as above the hole that you refitted the original pin in will now be slightly damaged and should be removed. rest of chain will be fine.

Ah, oh apologies wwaswas. Fair point then, although my chain would now be 4 links shorter.

I had exactly the same problem last winter with a Shimano chain. I replaced with a SRAM powerlink and used it for the final 4-6 weeks of winter.

I replaced the chain and cassette ready for this winter on the basis that if one link had broken the rest of the links probably were’nt in the best condition.

my chain would now be 4 links shorter

[ahem]

“and put fresh ones in”

[/ahem]

81818(7)81818

where 8 is the links with holes and 1 being the ones with plates 7 bing the repair

81818(P)81818

Where P is the powerlink why wouldn’t that work?

I was like wwasw was getting at was just take the repair out and replace with a powerlink which are designed to be strong enough where a bodged pin repair is not.

BHB, thats sounds good.

I’ll try to find the repair first and stick a powerlink in, might not be easy :-/

Are you suggesting KEEP the link where the pin has been removed / replaced and insert powerlink into it – ie no need to shorten the chain any further?

Is BBH BHB of BM past? So many acronyms!

Edit: yes. Happy days.

Yep it is I 🙂

I’ll try to find the repair first and stick a powerlink in, might not be easy :-/

Are you suggesting KEEP the link where the pin has been removed / replaced and insert powerlink into it – ie no need to shorten the chain any further?

I don’t know it’s a struggle trying to explain it, hence the 818181 stuff…you’ll figure it out.

Where the repair pin is push it out..push the other pin out on the other end you should have two ends with holes in put in a powerlink and you should have a solid repair with no shortening other than any you might have done at the roadside

Where the repair pin is push it out..push the other pin out on the other end you should have two ends with holes in put in a powerlink and you should have a solid repair with no shortening other than any you might have done at the roadside

Thats what I thought you meant, and removes the weakened pin / hole issue.

Cheers.

Glad we got that sorted – was going to keep me up all night worrying about it 😛

The general rule of thumb when a chain breaks is to remove the pin from the other end of the outer plates (the ones that are not obscured when the chain is whole) then replace both the broken pins and the outer plates with a powerlink.

I have powerlinks fitted to all of my chains (MTB & Hybrid), so that I can remove the chain for cleaning. They can be opened and closed multiple times without any problem, and a few spares weigh next to nothing, so can always be carried around with you.

SRAM 10 speed powerlinks are not re-useable, so get some of the Clarks links.