I’ve only ever had one bike, currently thats a Carbon 456. I use this for everything, including commuting to work which is 10-15 miles each way, depending on which way i decide to go (normally 10m to work, 15m home). It running 36T front and 11-32 rear cassette (1×9). Tends to be downhill mostly into work but into the wind, and uphill on the way home. Not too many big hills really, but i guess i’m used to them now.

Anyway i want to sort out a cheap commuter bike that i can lock up outside the gym and not worry about too much, I’ve got a frame sorted, some rigid OnOne forks, 26inch mtb wheels (currently have a commuter set and on offroad set of wheels that i change over at the weekends).

Basically i need help deciding on firstly which tensioner to go for, and what tooth sprockets to start with.

As i’m trying to make this as cheap as possible to start with, i’ve been looking at a Truvativ IsoFlow Single Kurbel which is 42T which i can get for £16+ £7 for a BB plus postage, So was thinking a 20T rear might be a good starter point (superstar set £10).

The tensioner i was looking at was again from superstar, this: http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=58&products_id=269
Thought a fixed tension would be better than something that works off a spring like a normal rear mech, (surely i’d also need a front ring device too running a sprung loaded tensioner?)

If anyone could other advice on these or point out better equipment for similar money, i’d really appreciate it.

Thanks

Sounds like a plan – Have you thought of picking up a second hand square taper chainset? The bottom brackets last for eons and are cheap as chips. I have had one experience with a Truvativ gigapipe and it lasted a week.

you could use a spare rear mech for tension, often cheap second hand, probably cheaper than a tensioner?

I use an old 7 speed mech, it works just fine and you dont need a chain device up front no matter what you use.

+1 for square taper BB.

You don’t need a front device when using a sprung tensioner provided your chainline is spot on. If you’re getting a cassette spacer kit, make sure it includes a variety of different widths of spacer so you can fine tune the chainline.

42:20 sounds a tad low for road use unless it’s really hilly where you live. You’ll find yourself spinning out a lot. I’d be tempted to go for an 18 or even 16 on the back. Don’t spend a lot on the cogs until you’re comfortable with the ratio and then shell out for something decent like a Surly

I went with this tensioner,

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=58&products_id=304

just because it was gold… (oooh shiny bits) it works fine no complaints but I guess it is £7 more than the one you listed so doesn’t confine to “cheap or similar price” spec your after. I don’t use a ring device at the front, no skips, nothing. (on one inbred frame for info).

Cranks I’m using,

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=40914

I’m running 34 front and 16 back it spins a little on long flats if I get a decent speed but doesn’t kill me on the ups. To be honest it’s a really nice ride to work for me as I’m actually not as knackered. Where as before when I was riding with gears my legs felt dead. I guess it’s because I used to go for the highest gear every time and go as fast as possible! I now have a more enjoyable fun ride strangely and I have a decent day at work as my legs haven’t dropped off due to chasing roadies on my full suss like a springer spaniel on crack.

I echo the advice on cogs get some cheap ones until your happy with your cog size. Find somewhere with a nice climb and somewhere flat to test out if unsure.

In fact I’m enjoying it so much currently I might even buy some suspension forks and take it to my local haunt cannock (currently have rigid carbon).

Doesn’t the c456 have “swap-out” dropouts? If so, you could get the singlespeed ones from On-one and use a chaintug rather than a spring tensioner.

I’m too late with this advice, of course…