Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
  • Singlespeed issue
  • rjhazell
    Free Member

    I’ve got a 42:16 set up with a push down tensioner. Chain slips (feels like at the rear sprocket under load), took a link out of the chain which improved chain wrap but now the bike is really loud… got some dodgy looks as I blasted past people on the commute today…

    Can’t remember for the life of me whether I bought the SS or 7sp rear sprocket originally so I’ve ordered a 7sp one now just to eliminate that as a cause….

    Any tips…?

    RJH

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    I wonder if the chain is a wee bit too short.

    Pics?

    rjhazell
    Free Member

    Hi,

    Pics below

    [IMG]http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x454/Rob_Hazell/Peterborough-20120731-00052.jpg[/IMG]

    Chainline isn’t perfect, but I can’t do much about that with the spacers I’ve got!!!

    RJH

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    thepodge
    Free Member

    I had a case of the jockey wheel rubbing on the frame under load on one of my setups, also had the guide to stop it coming off the jockey wheel come undone & rub on the chain

    ds3000
    Free Member

    In my experience having the chain line dead on is vital for non slippage, maybe invest in some narrow spacers from velosolo or the like. Good luck

    footflaps
    Full Member

    I’ve had just this, problem is the down pull tensioner, not enough engagement on the rear sprocket will cause slipping under load.

    Either use an up-push tensioner or better, use a 1/2 link BMX chain and get an exact fit (which was the solution I used):


    Ragley Ti Single Speed by brf, on Flickr

    cp
    Full Member

    IME, chainline is critical for reducing noise and slip.

    I’d get a better spacer set with multiple spacer widths. eg

    http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=58&products_id=265

    cp
    Full Member

    There’s plenty of tooth engagement on the OP’s sprocket.

    footflaps
    Full Member

    There’s plenty of tooth engagement on the OP’s sprocket.

    That’s what I thought with mine (identical set-up) but it still slipped. If the chain can be pulled up and off the sprocket, which was what happened every time I went uphill. I didn’t believe it until someone watched me ride and confirmed that was were the slip was.

    rjhazell
    Free Member

    My own opinion on chainline: most of the singlespeed conversion kits come with enough spacers so that you can get your sprocket either bang in the middle of the freehub or slightly off-centre either way… I presume that the manufacturers of these kits believe that this is sufficient for the majority of set-ups. The superstar kit is the only one I could find with more of a range of spacers… Who knows, maybe this is the only one worth buying!

    Anyway, I’ve bought a half link chain, because if it works it will look really cool like the Ragley!

    RJH

    jonba
    Free Member

    I had a similar problem and solved it in several ways.

    First up I used a half link chain and this was fine but the chains relatively expensive and not very long lasting.

    So I tried again and the cause I found was due to a chainline issue. It was only ver slightly out but was enough that it caused a few problems because of lack of chainwrap etc. I used some spacers left over from a BB to tweek it and it has been fine since. I was using a narrow 8 speed chain and I wondered if a bmx chain would have more tolerance to the slight misalignment of sprockets.

    bm0p700f
    Free Member

    Also if you are going to run tensionerless you can do it without a half link. Removing half an inh from the chain (using a half link does this) is like adding or removing 2 teeth from the from or rear sproket or 1 tooth from each.

    Using a BMX chain would make any alignment issues worse as it less flexible laterally. I run both of my SS with 8 speed chains with no issue. I do tensionerless as well.

    Wrap your chain arround both spokets and bring up to join and measurewhat faction of an inch you need to remove or take away to join. Add/removing 1 tooth takes or adds 1/4″ to chain length.

    Either this or get a push up tensioner.

    bm0p700f
    Free Member

    All the Mr control kits I do ome with a stak of narrow spacers so near perfect or perfect chainline can be achieved. I use this on both of my SS and they work well.

    1mm Shimano cassette spacers are good for fine tuning chainline. BB spacer can be a it too thick if they are the 2.5mm variety.

Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)

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